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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-25-2015, 06:42 AM   #11746
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I am running tebo's fastlane setup with the battery sideways is there something, I could change when he track loses grip? I am using electrons
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Old 02-25-2015, 02:31 PM   #11747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chansharp318 View Post
So just rebuilt my shocks. Put pink in the front. Gold In the rear. 32.5 all the way round and medium ends all the way around. And 2x1.6 pistons all the way around. Still no difference. My collars are all the way to bottom of the threads all the way around. I just don't get it. Bout to just say fuck it an run it lol the rear barely even bounces back. 24mm ride heights
Running into the same problem. Rebuilt the shocks w/ new shafts, seals & spacers, pistons, oil (35 front 30 rear), ball ends & springs (white front & rear). Ride height 24 front 23 rear. Shock shaft length 20 front 27 rear. No ballast. Setup MM. Shorty battery. Shock top 3rd hole in & stock inner hole on the arm. Shock collars are 80% down on the shock body. Even if I wanted 24mm of rear ride height the collar would be buried. I'm out of ideas. Thoughts?

Buggy runs great as is but heard excessive preload stiffens the ride.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:03 PM   #11748
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Running into the same problem. Rebuilt the shocks w/ new shafts, seals & spacers, pistons, oil (35 front 30 rear), ball ends & springs (white front & rear). Ride height 24 front 23 rear. Shock shaft length 20 front 27 rear. No ballast. Setup MM. Shorty battery. Shock top 3rd hole in & stock inner hole on the arm. Shock collars are 80% down on the shock body. Even if I wanted 24mm of rear ride height the collar would be buried. I'm out of ideas. Thoughts?

Buggy runs great as is but heard excessive preload stiffens the ride.
For the fronts it seems ok to be at that preload. What shock ends for rears? short medium or long. Most setups run long for rears with stock rb6 rear arms.
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Old 02-25-2015, 04:53 PM   #11749
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For the fronts it seems ok to be at that preload. What shock ends for rears? short medium or long. Most setups run long for rears with stock rb6 rear arms.
I knew I forgot something. Stock ends: medium front & long rear.
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Old 02-25-2015, 04:55 PM   #11750
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Mine's about the same.. With associated whites.. So with everyone having that problem, I'm going to assume it's right.
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Old 02-25-2015, 04:55 PM   #11751
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I knew I forgot something. Stock ends: medium front & long rear.
No binding in the suspension as well? Like with shocks removed, car on stand, the arms falls smoothly and dont stick correct?
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Old 02-25-2015, 05:26 PM   #11752
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No binding in the suspension as well? Like with shocks removed, car on stand, the arms falls smoothly and dont stick correct?
No binding in the geometry. Shocks were bled properly: no air-rebound/no suction.

Just thought of something...could the screws that secure the shock to the arm be too tight and cause binding? If so, not sure why it would happen in the front as well.

Could be battery weight? Running a Fantom Racing 2s 4500mAh shorty...
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Old 02-25-2015, 10:51 PM   #11753
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Originally Posted by E73 View Post
No binding in the geometry. Shocks were bled properly: no air-rebound/no suction.

Just thought of something...could the screws that secure the shock to the arm be too tight and cause binding? If so, not sure why it would happen in the front as well.

Could be battery weight? Running a Fantom Racing 2s 4500mAh shorty...

Check both the top and bottom shock mounts. Loosen them up just a tick. Might do the trick. My shock collars aren't that low, but seen a couple locals have the same issues.
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:42 AM   #11754
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Droop is probably wrong I tested this last night. With the long rear shock ends screwed all the way in will leave about 24mm of shaft exposed. If u try to set ride height at 23/24 your collars will be way down on the bodies. Same goes for the front with medium ends screwed all the way in gives the same result. Hope this helps...
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Old 02-26-2015, 01:12 PM   #11755
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My exposed shafts are set to 19mm in front and 28mm in back..
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Old 02-26-2015, 02:45 PM   #11756
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Hey guys, quick question. I recently purchased an RT6 and put Tebo's CRCRC setup on it and it is an animal. My Yokomo YZ-2 and B5m have never felt like this. Would the RB6 have a similar feel to the truck or it is a bad comparison? If I could get a buggy to feel like the RT6 I would be so happy!
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Old 02-26-2015, 04:42 PM   #11757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Check both the top and bottom shock mounts. Loosen them up just a tick. Might do the trick. My shock collars aren't that low, but seen a couple locals have the same issues.
That was it, at least for the rear. Took the spring off and tested down travel with the screw both tight and loose. When tight, the arm (with tire mounted) didn't even descend. Loosened it 1/2 turn and it went down smoothly. Shock collar went up 3mm on the shock body from where it was.

Could not recreate the same with the front, however. Might just be my shock position: inner hole on the tower & outer hole on the arm. Thanks for the help!
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:24 PM   #11758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E73 View Post
That was it, at least for the rear. Took the spring off and tested down travel with the screw both tight and loose. When tight, the arm (with tire mounted) didn't even descend. Loosened it 1/2 turn and it went down smoothly. Shock collar went up 3mm on the shock body from where it was.

Could not recreate the same with the front, however. Might just be my shock position: inner hole on the tower & outer hole on the arm. Thanks for the help!
Glad it worked out for ya,
Pretty amazing how something so simple can often be the culprit of so many headaches.
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Old 02-27-2015, 06:16 AM   #11759
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Geez, maybe looking at alternatives for gearing in 17.5.. Usually I am geared 33/69.. But it seems on this layout it's getting really hot.. Like 160-180+. It's a fast layout (lots of straight away, and short run up to jumps.

Facebook link VV (dont know why it looks like a weird link).
https://scontent-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hp...8c&oe=558E6209

How would you guys gear?
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Old 02-27-2015, 11:45 AM   #11760
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What motor?
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