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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-19-2015, 03:04 PM   #11716
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Kevin are you running the shorty sideways or normal? Did you end up running the 4 degree inserts upfront? How'd you like it?
I'm running it sideways. I'm going to practice today but I'm looking forward to testing it. I talked to another driver and felt like 25+0 is good but it also seemed like we compensated the Ackerman to tame it down. I'm adding 3mm to the reversed Ackerman rack with 25+4 today. Hopefully it maintains the low speed while taming the exit and increasing the high speed.
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:08 PM   #11717
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Speaking of shock collars being high or low, why does it seem that regardless of brand the pros cars seem to have their shock collars screwed down like 1/4 inch or so. I realize it doesn't affect anything just curious why their cars are like that. 2wd or 4wd doesn't matter, almost like they use longer springs.
I actually believe this does matter. It has to do with where in the shock body the piston is located. I am pretty sure the on-road guys believe one or the other (piston position) will affect traction. For off-road it might not matter because we don't have the traction in off-road so it just might be in my head. I am starting to blabber now so I will stop.
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:49 PM   #11718
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Speaking of shock collars being high or low, why does it seem that regardless of brand the pros cars seem to have their shock collars screwed down like 1/4 inch or so. I realize it doesn't affect anything just curious why their cars are like that. 2wd or 4wd doesn't matter, almost like they use longer springs.
I also wondered about this.. being a used car I have no idea of the length nor age of the springs. I plan on buying pink/gold so maybe new ones would help. And also it appears that they used short shock ends all the way around
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:10 PM   #11719
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I actually believe this does matter. It has to do with where in the shock body the piston is located. I am pretty sure the on-road guys believe one or the other (piston position) will affect traction. For off-road it might not matter because we don't have the traction in off-road so it just might be in my head. I am starting to blabber now so I will stop.
How can it not matter when it effects ride hieght and spring pre load.
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:49 PM   #11720
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How can it not matter when it effects ride hieght and spring pre load.
I just don't have the tools to test all of this. Maybe some day.
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Old 02-19-2015, 05:07 PM   #11721
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How can it not matter when it effects ride hieght and spring pre load.
That's what I'm trying to figure out, go look at some of the pros set up sheets, it will list said ride height, then look at a picture of the car that's attached to the set up. Now go look at your car with that set up and more than likely your collars will be screwed much farther down than the pros? Someone mentioned about where the shock piston would be in the shock, that could have a huge effect on ride I think. If your piston is in the middle of the shock body at ride height wouldn't it be smoother than if say your piston was really high or really low in the shock body? Instead of having equal amounts of fluid on top and bottom of piston you would have more on one side or the other? Maybe way over thinking this but could definitely see it affecting the ride.
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Old 02-19-2015, 05:36 PM   #11722
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You guys are over thinking it all now.
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Old 02-20-2015, 06:05 AM   #11723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
That's what I'm trying to figure out, go look at some of the pros set up sheets, it will list said ride height, then look at a picture of the car that's attached to the set up. Now go look at your car with that set up and more than likely your collars will be screwed much farther down than the pros? Someone mentioned about where the shock piston would be in the shock, that could have a huge effect on ride I think. If your piston is in the middle of the shock body at ride height wouldn't it be smoother than if say your piston was really high or really low in the shock body? Instead of having equal amounts of fluid on top and bottom of piston you would have more on one side or the other? Maybe way over thinking this but could definitely see it affecting the ride.
The piston will be in the same location in the shock body for the same ride height no matter how far the spring is compressed or even what spring is being used provided geometry is the same.


A couple of factors that could be coming into play:
1.) Age/Condition of springs. Springs are a wear item. Some people have special devices to check the K-factor of their springs (probably going a little too deep, lol!)
2.) Weight and/or weight distribution of the car. The springs provide the resisting force to the weight of the car. The more the car weighs the more the spring will have to be compressed.
3.) Temperature. This would have to be an extreme change in temperature to see a significant affect on the steel in the springs but I felt like mentioning it any how.


My prediction is that you will find that your car is heavier or has a different weight balance than what you are comparing it too.

All that being said, this is probably the least of your worries.

Now if you suddenly find yourself unscrewing your preset nuts to set your ride height to your usual setting you will want to start looking for a bind in the suspension!!
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Old 02-20-2015, 07:13 AM   #11724
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Like I said you guys are way over thinking this.
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Old 02-20-2015, 08:48 AM   #11725
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Like I said you guys are way over thinking this.
Lol for now I'm not gonna worry bout it till I get new springs and put the right ends on the shaft. And is the amount they are screwed down in the picture even potentially damaging. (My original question) Or is there no such thing
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Old 02-20-2015, 09:00 AM   #11726
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Ok guys help me out with this one.

I went to run my car tonight. Rebuilt a lot of it with new parts and I wanted to try a new front end setup. I put my pivot (aluminum) to 25 and set my caster to 4 to get 29. I also ran the steering rack reversed (Kyosho) and 3mm on it. From my previous experience I have also had to run 2mm on the steering link to get rid of any bump in, but this time when I had it on at 2mm I was getting a ton of bump out. I had to run 0 shims for 0 bump. I'm running spindles up, and I also checked that the inserts were 4 even though I've used them before.

Any idea why I'm running 0 shims with 25+4 when I've run 2mm in the past? And by past I mean last week. I'm also running the hubs in the middle.
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Old 02-20-2015, 12:08 PM   #11727
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Ok I figured it out!

When you run the new steering brace UMW724 it eliminates the 1.5mm shim on the bottom of the steering arms. What this does is lower the steering rack, and essentially raising the outside by 1.5mm. That being said if you run the Kyosho rack you will need to flip the rack bushing LA256 under the rack instead of in between and possibly the low mount stud on the outside if you are going to run spindles up and 25+0 caster.

This would explain why 25+4 comes out perfectly with no shims needed but you'll want to do the above if you run 25+0.

I believe the Schelle rack mounts higher than the Kyosho one as it doesn't use the bushing, so the shims are still needed to fix bump steer but I have not measured the actual mounted height of both of the racks to verify.
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Old 02-20-2015, 09:12 PM   #11728
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Hey guys I just set my ride height last night 24mm on both sides. But my question is how far do you guy have to thread your collars. Mine seem really far down and compress the spring quite a bit. Definitely more than most the pictures I see. I'll post a pic when I get home but I'd say at least half way down the threads
I have the same problem. Buggy & suspension parts are 2 years old. All parts are OEM Kyosho built to stock manual specs. Shock collars used to be in a "normal" location but have shifted down gradually over the last several months regardless of mounting location. Talked to a sponsored Kyosho racer and he thought the orings/spacers and shock shafts were creating too much friction (from old age) causing the shocks to hang up. Something to consider.
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Old 02-20-2015, 10:06 PM   #11729
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Worn out springs most likely.
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Old 02-22-2015, 12:46 AM   #11730
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I've ordered some X gear red rear springs but if they don't arrive before race night what AE rear spring is closest to X gear red??
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