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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-08-2015, 06:10 PM   #11656
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I might be interested in it. Need detailed picks and a list of what is on it...ex...aluminum rear hangers, al steering rack etc.
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:41 PM   #11657
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So I tried 25+4 caster today. The car felt a little lazier, which I expected but it was a lot more stable around the track. I've always wondered why we ran 25+0 but every car out there is 25+5 caster. It's not like we need steering!
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:18 AM   #11658
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Default brass hangar

anyone notice kyosho came out with their own brass hangar too:

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Brass-R...R_p_23711.html

nothing about how many grams it weighs thou
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:45 AM   #11659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenng View Post
anyone notice kyosho came out with their own brass hangar too:

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Brass-R...R_p_23711.html

nothing about how many grams it weighs thou
Be looking forward to this since the losi guys took a step forward with there's late last year.
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:47 AM   #11660
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So I want to do the side ways shorty pack conversion, has any one got some tips or photos with out the battery installed. How much do you dremal out of the sides? How are you centering/holding the battery in position?
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Old 02-09-2015, 03:34 AM   #11661
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So I want to do the side ways shorty pack conversion, has any one got some tips or photos with out the battery installed. How much do you dremal out of the sides? How are you centering/holding the battery in position?
Take a look at Tebos Reedy Race car pics. Shows everything needed in detail.
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Old 02-09-2015, 05:29 AM   #11662
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So I want to do the side ways shorty pack conversion, has any one got some tips or photos with out the battery installed. How much do you dremal out of the sides? How are you centering/holding the battery in position?

Tom u actually don't have to dremel the chassis at all. What I did was cut the side guards to an exact fit. This could take a couple of minutes as I don't want to take of to much. Once done install the side guards as normal. then install 2mm shims under the trey piece that attaches to the waterfall. Then take 2mm shims and install under the battery holder that screws into chassis. Make sure u use longer screws. Depending where u put the battery holder cut the battery strap to an exact fit.
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Old 02-09-2015, 05:31 AM   #11663
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What is everyone using for the rear pills right now? I'm running b in /a per Tebo setup but still lacking forward bite
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:48 AM   #11664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom87 View Post
So I want to do the side ways shorty pack conversion, has any one got some tips or photos with out the battery installed. How much do you dremal out of the sides? How are you centering/holding the battery in position?
I picked up the B5m battery foam, 91536 to help keep the battery where I wanted it. Now I can adjust the battery forward and backward in the chassis as opposed to it being in one spot.
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:02 AM   #11665
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Originally Posted by glenng View Post
anyone notice kyosho came out with their own brass hangar too:

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Brass-R...R_p_23711.html

nothing about how many grams it weighs thou
20 grams heavier than the aluminum toe block. Total weight is 24 grams.
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:00 AM   #11666
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Hi all. I was thinking of picking up one of these and racing it in 17.5 locally. Since the design is a few years old, how does it stack up to the newer buggies out there? Is it worth the premium? I am basically trying to decide between this and the Durango.

Does anyone have any idea as to how long Kyosho will be supporting this buggy?

Also, what big bore springs fit because $20 for a PAIR of Kyosho springs is a bit hard to swallow.

Thanks.
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:39 AM   #11667
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Originally Posted by GeekSpeed View Post
Hi all. I was thinking of picking up one of these and racing it in 17.5 locally. Since the design is a few years old, how does it stack up to the newer buggies out there? Is it worth the premium? I am basically trying to decide between this and the Durango.

Does anyone have any idea as to how long Kyosho will be supporting this buggy?

Also, what big bore springs fit because $20 for a PAIR of Kyosho springs is a bit hard to swallow.

Thanks.
I am sure Kyosho will be supporting this brand for quite a few years still. They are still making parts for their previous generation of cars, before the RB6.

As for springs, any big bore springs from the other manufacturers will fit. One thing to keep in mind though is you will find top drivers for different brands either running or using the Kyosho X-Gear springs in their pit box or setup sheet. There is a reason why they use them, especially since they race at the top level.

As for comparison to the Durango, I have not seen one a while so it would be unfair for me to comment on it. I know they changed direction recently, by discontinuing their factory team but Travis (Peanut) Amezcua is leading the charge and he seems to be doing just fine. You might want to ask in the Durango thread what changes they are making to their cars and if they are necessary if you haven't done so already.

Good luck with your decision but if you go with a Kyosho car I don't think you can go wrong.
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Old 02-09-2015, 06:27 PM   #11668
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20 grams heavier than the aluminum toe block. Total weight is 24 grams.
Nice so its a little heavier then rocket rc version. thanks for the info bro.
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:09 PM   #11669
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Which chassis does the newer kits come with?
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:41 AM   #11670
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For low traction tracks, I'm better off having a shorter rear camber link to give me more rear traction? For some reason I thought it was long but I was reading through the B5M manual and read that shorter should help it square up faster and give you more traction. Better for low traction. Is this correct? OR am I better having long for low traction?

Also moving the hubs from middle to forward position, what would that do?
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