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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-04-2015, 07:15 AM   #11626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chansharp318 View Post
Hey guys hoping someone could shed some light.. so I recently replaced the out drives on my diff. No big deal got it all back together and adjusted correctly. ( i think) Then started the problem. . I've been eating through spur gears..the first one broke the pinion too where the set screw goes in. Replaced it with a team assosiated 26t. Seemed noisy still. And have now eaten thru 2 more spurs adjusting slipper and just trying to get it all to quiet down. I'm using the paper method to set mesh. And I dont know what it could be unless the top shaft is bent or the actual motor shaft is bent. Idk any ideas?
I had this problem too. I'm still not sure what caused it, but I replaced everything including the motor plate and housing. No issues since then.
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Old 02-04-2015, 07:19 AM   #11627
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Originally Posted by subzero2k View Post
Hi.
Ive got my kit today. What is a good pinion to start.
I plan to use a 8,5t on a high grip carpet track.

Greetings
Hard to say, alot of variables. I run a 23T with an 8.5.
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Old 02-04-2015, 07:40 AM   #11628
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Chansharp, This may sound stupid, but make sure all your bearings are in the diff case and that they are good. Somehow I just recently must have had a bearing fall out while putting a diff back together.
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Old 02-04-2015, 08:19 AM   #11629
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Got car together with Zach Rogers setup. Need to know a starting ride height for high grip track with small jumps.

I used the long shock ball ends on Rr shocks as in the sheet but really need to back the spring adjuster way up to lower rearend. Should I try the medium shock ball ends?
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Old 02-04-2015, 09:31 AM   #11630
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Default Rear wheels, EVO vs Stock?

I'm hoping someone can shed some light: I bought a few spare wheels (and tires/inserts), and got the "EVO" style rear wheels from AKA which are listed as Kyo compatible. I went to track yesterday to put them on, and noticed that the axle doesn't stick out far enough past the wheel for the nut to fully seat. I took a closer look at the stock wheels that came with the kit and noticed the center is recessed allowing the nut to be flush with the outside of the wheel, and the nut to be fully seated on the axle. Can anyone confirm if they use the EVO wheels and have solved this problem? Or should I only get the stock Kyosho wheels (and do the stock wheels work with EVO tires)?

Thank you for your patience with this newbie to buggy racing.
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Old 02-04-2015, 09:58 AM   #11631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jgins13 View Post
I'm hoping someone can shed some light: I bought a few spare wheels (and tires/inserts), and got the "EVO" style rear wheels from AKA which are listed as Kyo compatible. I went to track yesterday to put them on, and noticed that the axle doesn't stick out far enough past the wheel for the nut to fully seat. I took a closer look at the stock wheels that came with the kit and noticed the center is recessed allowing the nut to be flush with the outside of the wheel, and the nut to be fully seated on the axle. Can anyone confirm if they use the EVO wheels and have solved this problem? Or should I only get the stock Kyosho wheels (and do the stock wheels work with EVO tires)?

Thank you for your patience with this newbie to buggy racing.
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

or get low profile serrated lock nuts. I would go with #1 for security (I myself just avoid any other wheels than kyosho).
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Old 02-04-2015, 12:03 PM   #11632
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Yes on serated locknuts. A cheaper option are the Durango ones. 10 for only a few bucks.
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Old 02-04-2015, 07:12 PM   #11633
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Question for those running the v2 rear hubs. Are you guys running the inserts and smaller bearings or just running the larger bearings?
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Old 02-04-2015, 09:00 PM   #11634
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Just order the rb6 going to b running mm on indoor med to high bite clay. R the stock piston worth trying?
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Old 02-04-2015, 11:57 PM   #11635
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Do these fit the rb6 http://www.amain.com/jconcepts-4mm-l...lack-4/p273896
Had the avid setup and the clamping hex fits poorly and binds up the drivetrain, tried shimming it and still no success, save yourself 20-30bucks and get some serrated wheel nuts.
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Old 02-05-2015, 01:22 AM   #11636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jgins13 View Post
I'm hoping someone can shed some light: I bought a few spare wheels (and tires/inserts), and got the "EVO" style rear wheels from AKA which are listed as Kyo compatible. I went to track yesterday to put them on, and noticed that the axle doesn't stick out far enough past the wheel for the nut to fully seat. I took a closer look at the stock wheels that came with the kit and noticed the center is recessed allowing the nut to be flush with the outside of the wheel, and the nut to be fully seated on the axle. Can anyone confirm if they use the EVO wheels and have solved this problem? Or should I only get the stock Kyosho wheels (and do the stock wheels work with EVO tires)?

Thank you for your patience with this newbie to buggy racing.
You can also run these axles instead, http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Wheel-S...cs_p_4618.html use these to get the correct hub spacing, http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Aluminu...u_p_10868.html
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Old 02-05-2015, 05:55 AM   #11637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FallenAllDay View Post
Do these fit the rb6 http://www.amain.com/jconcepts-4mm-l...lack-4/p273896
Had the avid setup and the clamping hex fits poorly and binds up the drivetrain, tried shimming it and still no success, save yourself 20-30bucks and get some serrated wheel nuts.
I have the avid axle set up on my rb6 and it works great. The longer axle allows me to run any wheel and they have lifetime replacement!

I did notice that they bind up like all hubs when you forget the gold spacer between the bearings.

I run the serrated nylocks from traxxas. Cheap and they work great
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:40 AM   #11638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpcardoza View Post
Question for those running the v2 rear hubs. Are you guys running the inserts and smaller bearings or just running the larger bearings?
I ran the smaller bearings until I was able to get my hands on the larger bearing. For me, the larger bearing seemed to last longer that is why I went with that size.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rosko View Post
Just order the rb6 going to b running mm on indoor med to high bite clay. R the stock piston worth trying?
If you can I would get 1.6mm x 2 and the 1.4mm x 3 hole pistons when you can. You can use the kit pistons but I think you will find the car not having enough pack in the shocks. You could try and compromise with heavier oil but even that has some drawbacks.
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Old 02-05-2015, 09:48 AM   #11639
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Ok thanks I did order those pistons with the kit so I'll just put the 3h1.4 in the front and the 1.6 n rear. Not going to try the sideways lipo thing yet I will b running mod. just not sure if I want to go servo, esc,lipo, motor or servo lipo, esc motor....which one gives more rear bite or is it not much difference?
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Old 02-05-2015, 11:12 AM   #11640
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Does anybody know if the associated avid 12mm shock tool works on the kyosho shocks to bleed the shocks?
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