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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-09-2015, 12:41 PM   #11461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
RM with LW chassis. Thats got almost as much traction as my yok with a plastic tub. No need to run a MM just cos all the others are doing it .


I only have one race day under my belt with my RM RB6 but I ended up qualifying 11th out of 24 buggies, and almost all of them were MM. I went on to win the B-main (and bump up to the A-main) with my RM, again against all MM buggies. This was in Sportsman Stock (17.5) class against some pretty talented drivers (OCRC in SoCal).

My plan is to run it a few more months RM then switch it to MM to see if I like it and notice a big difference. Right now I have no reason to change it
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:46 PM   #11462
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So I just went through my car again to make sure I was running exactly the Zach Rogers setup. Here is what I found.. Could some maybe tell me what each change will do?

Medium to long shock ends (rear)
Long to Med shock ends (front)
Rear Arms shimmed forward instead of backwards
No .5 shim under rear suspension arm
Caster Block shimmed 1.5mm on bottom now position to 1mm on bottom .5 on top
Caster Block shimmed 1mm on rear (was 1mm on the front)

Also are my springs right?
Pink Kyosho fronts
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:54 PM   #11463
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
So I just went through my car again to make sure I was running exactly the Zach Rogers setup. Here is what I found.. Could some maybe tell me what each change will do?

Medium to long shock ends (rear)
Long to Med shock ends (front)
Rear Arms shimmed forward instead of backwards
No .5 shim under rear suspension arm
Caster Block shimmed 1.5mm on bottom now position to 1mm on bottom .5 on top
Caster Block shimmed 1mm on rear (was 1mm on the front)

Also are my springs right?
Pink Kyosho fronts
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More rear droop gives you more traction through a corner, but will dump over harder on entry.

Long to medium, would give you less front droop and keep the front end flatter. Keeps more weight on the front of the car for more steering.

Forward will give you more forward bite and traction. Worse in the bumps though vs arms rear.

Ff you ran no rear shim you would jump better, but have less side bite and forward bite.

Moving the caster down would give you more bump in if you don't change the bumpsteer shim. Makes it easier to drive on exit and scrubs some speed on the face of jumps.

1mm on the rear makes the front end less reactive and have less steering (This is if you have a 25+0 setup so the shimming would be even on both sides)

Pink fronts are ok, so are whites. I am going to experiment with stiffer springs up front.

Not sure what AE whites are, I hear they are close to Golds so they should be fine.

For piston/oil I would be 32.5/30 with a 1.6x2 piston all around or a 35/30 3x1.4 and 2x1.6 piston setup
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:22 PM   #11464
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K_King whats the part # for the steering brace
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:53 PM   #11465
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http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Aluminu...6_p_23658.html
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:07 PM   #11466
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Thanks so much K_King!!!

So from what I did change wise..
Also installed the electronics like he has it..

What shouldi feel now compared to my previous version of his setup?
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:24 PM   #11467
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You should have more rear grip overall.
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Old 01-10-2015, 12:12 AM   #11468
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I got the new steering brace and installed it the way the directions explain to do it. You remove the 2 thin plastic spacers under the crank arms. I feel my bump steer has changed by doing it this way. The car drives slightly different too. It could be a mental thing but I know something is different. I was thinking of shaving down the plastic on the knuckle .5mm to compensate. Does this sound right?
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Old 01-10-2015, 12:29 AM   #11469
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You could put the .5mm shim on top of the caster block of you think the bump changed.
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:19 AM   #11470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecool View Post
I got the new steering brace and installed it the way the directions explain to do it. You remove the 2 thin plastic spacers under the crank arms. I feel my bump steer has changed by doing it this way. The car drives slightly different too. It could be a mental thing but I know something is different. I was thinking of shaving down the plastic on the knuckle .5mm to compensate. Does this sound right?
Dang, you do have all of the cool stuff!
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Old 01-10-2015, 11:02 AM   #11471
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Default Slipper question and setup

Hey all, i'm a recent addition into the buggy world and built the RB6 over the holidays. Having never built a slipper clutch before (my other RC is a 4WD Tekno SCT410 which does not have one), i'm curious if anyone has any advice/thoughts on doing it correctly. I'm planning to start by running 2WD stock class (17.5) at SDRC. It was suggested that i install the slipper eliminator (Kimbrough 69T spur and slipper eliminator) for running stock.

My first question is, for those that run stock, do you still have the slipper installed? Or do you use the eliminator?

My second question is, for those who use the slipper (stock or otherwise), how do you assemble it so that the pad stays aligned with the plates as you are tightening everything down? I keep having the pads slip away from the center spur and then rotate slightly so that the edge holes on the pad no longer align with the little tabs on the gear. As a result i don't think i'm getting good contact between the plates and the pads, and i'm having a really tough time getting it adjusted correctly. Any advice on building and setting the slipper would be welcome. Thanks!

Josh
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Old 01-10-2015, 11:56 AM   #11472
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Is there a parts listing somewhere on what is exactly needed to convert from rear motor to mid motor???
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Old 01-10-2015, 12:11 PM   #11473
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try keeping the pad pressed down with a small tool when you press the spur over the topshaft. if you are still unsure a small amount of glue can hold it down.
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Old 01-10-2015, 01:04 PM   #11474
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When u buy Kyosho rear a arms part # 713, does it come with left and right arms? Or do u have to buy 2 sets?
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Old 01-10-2015, 01:24 PM   #11475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace View Post
When u buy Kyosho rear a arms part # 713, does it come with left and right arms? Or do u have to buy 2 sets?
Taken from infernos only

Quote:
Description
The replacement rear arms for the Kyosho Ultima RB6. These come in a set of left and right. Made from a strong and stable composite material for performance and durability.
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