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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-07-2015, 04:33 AM   #11446
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I just bought some carbon fibre brackets to achieve the shock position as per Zack Roger's set up on the rear arm, which avoids the need to drill the extra hole. They cost me AUD $12 delivered. The same guy has supplied me a custom CF chassis for an RB5, a CF top deck for my ZX6 and shock towers for my old XB4. All have been excellent and very durable.
Check out Bezerk RC on FB if you're interested.
The guy's name is Paul Sims and he's the club president of one of our local clubs and invests a lot of time into the hobby. He may be able to make them out of aluminium if you'd rather as I've seen some of his CNC work too.
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Old 01-07-2015, 05:08 AM   #11447
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I would rather have a machined Aluminum piece that I can use as a template. Mounting it to the arm by the sway bar mount and the outside shock hole. One piece and just flip it over for the other side. Better then that, Kyosho start making rear arms with the new hole.
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:26 AM   #11448
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I'm sure we will see some new 3 hole arms soon.
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Old 01-07-2015, 07:44 PM   #11449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potatobed409 View Post
I would rather have a machined Aluminum piece that I can use as a template. Mounting it to the arm by the sway bar mount and the outside shock hole. One piece and just flip it over for the other side. Better then that, Kyosho start making rear arms with the new hole.
Agreed, Kyosho should be doing this.
However, until then the exchange rate is great for those in the US. AUD $12 is about $9.50 US and the CF parts can be used as a template too. Alternatively, ask him if he'll do aluminium.
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:24 PM   #11450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichD View Post
Agreed, Kyosho should be doing this.
However, until then the exchange rate is great for those in the US. AUD $12 is about $9.50 US and the CF parts can be used as a template too. Alternatively, ask him if he'll do aluminium.
The problem with his version, is that the droop is effected when you mount it on the arm that way. The part I had done has the correct hole alignment so droop isnt affected.
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:38 PM   #11451
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The problem with his version, is that the droop is effected when you mount it on the arm that way. The part I had done has the correct hole alignment so droop isnt affected.
I've seen the brackets you had made and they are sic looking. Best part if you happen to snap an arm you just screw them into the new one and the hole is perfect every time.
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Old 01-08-2015, 07:48 PM   #11452
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Yeah, I had about 6 arms with different distances. 17.7, .8 , .9, .5. I got really frustrated so I decided to make sure it's perfect 100% of the time with no drilling.
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:26 PM   #11453
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Anybody use futaba s9352hv servo or the bls471?
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:44 PM   #11454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
The problem with his version, is that the droop is effected when you mount it on the arm that way. The part I had done has the correct hole alignment so droop isnt affected.
I don't quite follow?
The screw coming out of the CF bracket, that the shock mounts to, is in the same place as where you'd drill the hole on the arm. So I'm not sure what you mean by the droop being effected?
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Old 01-09-2015, 04:24 AM   #11455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Snyder View Post
try lower a rear roll center.....or maybe a bit longer rear link.
I was able to get around my issue by putting the white springs on the front and tuning a little dual rate.

The RB6 was the best its ever been last night.
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:10 AM   #11456
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My buggy was awesome for a long time when my track was dry and grooved. Now they have rebuilt it , and I cant drive the dern car. The track is damp clay and cold, with no groove. Last outing I had tebos wet clay set up on it from petite and I couldnt even go full throttle without spinning. I ran the same tires as the winner that night . Most of the set ups i see are for med to high bite clay tracks , anyone point me towards something for damp , no grip tracks ? Thanks in advance ...
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:41 AM   #11457
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good luck with that. It's been brought up so many times on this thread and its not just me.

this car is crap when traction is low.


My other brands MM cars have more forward traction than my RM rb6.
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Old 01-09-2015, 10:53 AM   #11458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichD View Post
I don't quite follow?
The screw coming out of the CF bracket, that the shock mounts to, is in the same place as where you'd drill the hole on the arm. So I'm not sure what you mean by the droop being effected?
Sorry I was relating it to the bracket I use.
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Old 01-09-2015, 10:55 AM   #11459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wittyname View Post
My buggy was awesome for a long time when my track was dry and grooved. Now they have rebuilt it , and I cant drive the dern car. The track is damp clay and cold, with no groove. Last outing I had tebos wet clay set up on it from petite and I couldnt even go full throttle without spinning. I ran the same tires as the winner that night . Most of the set ups i see are for med to high bite clay tracks , anyone point me towards something for damp , no grip tracks ? Thanks in advance ...
What problems are you having specifically? What is the current setup you have, please be detailed, electronic layout and tired used.


I run on a medium bite track where traction is lacking and I have my car pretty good right now.
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:02 AM   #11460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wittyname View Post
My buggy was awesome for a long time when my track was dry and grooved. Now they have rebuilt it , and I cant drive the dern car. The track is damp clay and cold, with no groove. Last outing I had tebos wet clay set up on it from petite and I couldnt even go full throttle without spinning. I ran the same tires as the winner that night . Most of the set ups i see are for med to high bite clay tracks , anyone point me towards something for damp , no grip tracks ? Thanks in advance ...
RM with LW chassis. Thats got almost as much traction as my yok with a plastic tub. No need to run a MM just cos all the others are doing it .
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