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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-20-2014, 09:58 PM   #11311
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K king, did you do any grinding on the chassis? I see the plastic side pieces cut.
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Old 12-20-2014, 09:59 PM   #11312
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Put the Zack Rogers set up on your car. The whole thing. A lot of your rear settings are different than most of us running on that style of track. You're also going to want to move that esc and put your battery back against the motor. I ran that style set up at OCRC(tebo set up) and it worked great there, my home track has pretty good traction and that set up was horrible at my track. You need the weight back there. What tires do you run? Damp to wet clay should be yielding some pretty good traction with the right tires.
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:17 PM   #11313
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I'd like to see a picture of tebo set up with battery sideways or zacks
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:22 PM   #11314
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Originally Posted by mdwaeracer View Post
K king, did you do any grinding on the chassis? I see the plastic side pieces cut.
If he did it like Zack then yes, you grind down quite a bit, you have to grind down the bevel on the chassis so the battery will lay flat.
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:25 PM   #11315
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Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
Put the Zack Rogers set up on your car. The whole thing. A lot of your rear settings are different than most of us running on that style of track. You're also going to want to move that esc and put your battery back against the motor. I ran that style set up at OCRC(tebo set up) and it worked great there, my home track has pretty good traction and that set up was horrible at my track. You need the weight back there. What tires do you run? Damp to wet clay should be yielding some pretty good traction with the right tires.
At one point it had the Zach Rogers setup, minus the ESC in front of the battery. (and the Kyosho springs, ran the associated instead). It's originally what I was running, and wasn't working out for me. (at this track, at our other one it's on rails!)

Tires wise I'm running Proline Suburbs slicked down. Tried Panther slicks, and it didn't seem to be working out for me.
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:34 PM   #11316
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
At one point it had the Zach Rogers setup, minus the ESC in front of the battery. (and the Kyosho springs, ran the associated instead). It's originally what I was running, and wasn't working out for me. (at this track, at our other one it's on rails!)

Tires wise I'm running Proline Suburbs slicked down. Tried Panther slicks, and it didn't seem to be working out for me.

I am by no means a set up guru but i am lucky enough to race with zack every week and believe me, that esc position is a big change. Its interesting you are having trouble with tires though, maybe more of a ghost pin/ almost slick? Is the track slimy?
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:40 AM   #11317
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Originally Posted by mdwaeracer View Post
K king, did you do any grinding on the chassis? I see the plastic side pieces cut.
I had it CNC'd
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:43 AM   #11318
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I had it CNC'd
That is pretty cool! how does it affect flex?
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:45 AM   #11319
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It actually doesnt flex that much more. I may get more taken off so I can move it back and forth but I prefer it like this for now. I have never had any issues with steering so having it a little bit further back isnt a big deal for me.

Plus I can always get another chassis :P
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:33 AM   #11320
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Kevin
are you doing anything anything to support the chassis after that? We had a couple chassis snap just from not running the waterfall brace. I looked at Zacks and you guys are milling out the the bend in the chassis, thats a lot of support you guys are removing.
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Old 12-21-2014, 10:07 AM   #11321
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No and I dont even know where to even try to support it with the battery filling all of the gap.

It actually doesnt flex too bad. I tested it against my buddy's car that has the standard chassis and it has a tick more flex but nothing that would lead me to be worried.
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Old 12-21-2014, 01:56 PM   #11322
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Was wondering if u guys could suggest a 17.5 motor, and a few upgrades for 17.5 class?
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Old 12-21-2014, 02:03 PM   #11323
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Was wondering if u guys could suggest a 17.5 motor, and a few upgrades for 17.5 class?
I have been running the rear motor in 17.5 with good results. I'm using a hobbywing just stock speedo and a hobbywing v10 17.5 motor. ProbAbly the best upgrades I have done to the car are the mip pucks system and the exotek slipper eliminator.
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Old 12-21-2014, 02:29 PM   #11324
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Was wondering if u guys could suggest a 17.5 motor, and a few upgrades for 17.5 class?
I run a trinity d4. Only upgrades I would recommend are rear hubs and if your already a keen driver maybe trimming weight off the car.
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Old 12-21-2014, 04:55 PM   #11325
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ok. went to the track today. had mine set up with sadle packs and Rm. had bar code tires on and couldnt get traction. conditions were not bad. not too wet. my sct had beams on it and never had a traction problem. is everyone running the mm setup ? is sadle packs not as good as teh shorty ?? thanks for your help in advance.
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