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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-17-2014, 10:22 PM   #11281
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^^^^ exactly. My F main skill can't tell the difference between 5 and 20 dollar springs
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Old 12-18-2014, 03:12 AM   #11282
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Hey Panda, I have a Shurrspeed V3 17.5. I will be at the Clubhouse this Saturday for the 1st Anniversary race.
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Old 12-18-2014, 04:11 AM   #11283
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Originally Posted by motorfinger View Post
Hey Panda, I have a Shurrspeed V3 17.5. I will be at the Clubhouse this Saturday for the 1st Anniversary race.
Thanks but I'm going out of town this coming weekend to see some family.
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Old 12-18-2014, 05:31 AM   #11284
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Does it matter on the b6 or sct which side the ball diff adjustmenmt screw is on? Drivers or passenger? thanks
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:15 AM   #11285
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Does it matter on the b6 or sct which side the ball diff adjustmenmt screw is on? Drivers or passenger? thanks
I always put it on the opposite side of the slipper. This way, it is a lot easier to adjust it and I never had a problem with it coming loose.
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:39 AM   #11286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WagwanBumba View Post
Hey Mechintosh - are you running RM or MM?
MM mostly. I have 2 cars, 1 RM 1 MM. I run the MM most of the time.
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:35 AM   #11287
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Does it matter on the b6 or sct which side the ball diff adjustmenmt screw is on? Drivers or passenger? thanks
Yes, put the screw head on the opposite side of the spur/pinion. As stated, it is easier to adjust but it also will not loosen as you drive.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:23 AM   #11288
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If you build it correctly it shouldn't loosen anyways. You run the diff typically with the adjustment on the non slipper side just because it's easier to adjust. Case in point mm vs rm which flips the diff 180 degrees.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:26 AM   #11289
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I always put it on the opposite side of the slipper. This way, it is a lot easier to adjust it and I never had a problem with it coming loose.
+1. Way easier to adjust.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:28 AM   #11290
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Originally Posted by lewis4x4 View Post
Yes, put the screw head on the opposite side of the spur/pinion. As stated, it is easier to adjust but it also will not loosen as you drive.
So if you put it on the other side will it tighten as you drive , doesn't matter....whatever side is easier for you to adjust from.
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Old 12-18-2014, 03:02 PM   #11291
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thank you all for your help. I appreciate it.
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:18 AM   #11292
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Anyone know if or when a world's kit is coming?
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:38 AM   #11293
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Anyone know if or when a world's kit is coming?
Dunno, the worlds car was not that different than the stocker what can they upgrade in the worlds kit? Maybe a rear MM bulkhead which was beefed up and a few front brace/hinge pin holders? This is the reason I run Kyosho, the worlds team pretty much runs 99% of the kit I run unlike brands.

I would however love an actual full MM body looking like the blade.
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Old 12-19-2014, 02:36 PM   #11294
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My LHS is having great difficulty keeping Kyosho spur gears on the shelf. I know that between my RB6 and my RT6 I've been through 7, and the other RB6 driver that races with us has DNF'd at least a couple of times.

I just replaced my gearbox, bearings, top shaft and pinion. I made sure everything was super free in the gearbox and that my slipper was set so that it barely raised the front wheels.

Right now I'm debating whether it is spur gear #8 or b5m #1
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Old 12-19-2014, 04:10 PM   #11295
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My first post here in the Kyosho world. I'm acquiring a used RB6 hopefully tomorrow and want to put a new body on it, rear motor configuration. What is one of the best looking bodies in your guys opinion? (i know its subjective, but still looking for a good place to start looking. JConcepts Finnisher perhaps?
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