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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-16-2014, 02:26 AM   #11266
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Originally Posted by Hollywood_26 View Post
Thanks for all the tips! I will start with resetting my roll centers, the camber links, as I know that I have sort of gone on a tangent with those. I think I am chasing another handling characteristic and just crutching the setup change that I really need with shimming the ball studs and really going off the reservation with roll centers. I will reset my roll centers as per your advice.

I have also noticed that a lot of people have been reversing the steering rack. I didn't know what that particular change does, so I never tried it, but after your advice, I think that will help tremendously. I have been running Three Rib tires to help calm the steering down, but if I reverse the steering rack, I might be able to go back to running a pin front tire.

I will also try the different shock mounting locations as well.

Thanks!!
You should also try the "Zach Rogers setup" discussed a few pages pack. He uses a third, inside shock hole on rear arms that seems to give lots of rear grip without compromizing steering.
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Old 12-16-2014, 08:05 AM   #11267
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If anybody needs..have a new mounted RB6 tire/wheel lot in f/s thread for a steal.
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Old 12-16-2014, 09:28 AM   #11268
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Just finished the build of my rb6, totally stock. Man the Kyosho instructions aren't very good. I also had issues with a couple screws not being used where the manual said they were, and instead other screws needed. The wheels that I got are slightly different colors too. One is a very Snow White and the other is almost a light eggshell white...little disappointed in that but...

The car is still amazing! Makes my b4.2 look cheap.

I was surprised how long the build took. Especially considering this is the second rb6 I have built and I have had experience with the rb5 as well. Taking my time to make sure everything was working and fitting properly it took about 4.5 hours. My 22 2.0 took only about 3 hours building the same way.
It's because of the parts tree's. Super annoying build.
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Old 12-16-2014, 10:56 AM   #11269
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Originally Posted by Gayosaka View Post
You should also try the "Zach Rogers setup" discussed a few pages pack. He uses a third, inside shock hole on rear arms that seems to give lots of rear grip without compromizing steering.
I'll put that on my testing list for my next track day as well. Thanks!!
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Old 12-16-2014, 11:20 AM   #11270
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Is anyone running a shorty as far back as the holders will allow it to go? I want to run the esc in the front, but don't know if battery as far back like that hinders performance somewhere else.
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Old 12-16-2014, 11:34 AM   #11271
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Originally Posted by ThePanda View Post
Is anyone running a shorty as far back as the holders will allow it to go? I want to run the esc in the front, but don't know if battery as far back like that hinders performance somewhere else.
The motor/battery/ESC/servo setup is the way that Zach recommends to run the setup he has for the arm mod. Says it's better that way.

I ran the motor/battery/esc/servo setup when I first went to MM, I liked it and thought it worked well, performance/handling wise. I ended up moving the Esc back behind the battery mainly to keep the wires shorter and cleaner looking. I have been thinking about going back to my first elec. setup recently just to give it a try again.
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Old 12-16-2014, 11:41 AM   #11272
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I've been running the stock kit setup for a bit just to improve my driving. Looking to start making some setup changes. Can somebody explain the difference between flat and tapered shock pistons. Seems like most setups are running 4x1.3 fronts and 2x1.6 rears or there abouts. I plan on buying several to to some testing but don't know about tapered vs flat. Running 17.5 blinky on a high bite clay track with several tight jumps coming out of 180s. It feels to me that the stock is either to soft in the rear or not firm enough out front. Recommendations would be welcome
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:16 AM   #11273
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The tapered pistons create different flow rates through the Pistons. So you can achieve a different rebound and compression stroke.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:42 AM   #11274
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Originally Posted by ThePanda View Post
Is anyone running a shorty as far back as the holders will allow it to go? I want to run the esc in the front, but don't know if battery as far back like that hinders performance somewhere else.
I run on Hard Pack Low Med to High Med traction. I run my shorty battery as against the motor (as close as I can get) with out the rear holder. I thought it would remove steering but I still have more steering than most competitor's kits and find myself dialing in some dual rate, 90%. I normally start with the 2 screws that hold the motor cage to the chassis removed, as traction comes up I will add them back in. I find that tire selection is key to making my RB6 work. I run the same setup on outdoor 8th scale type track. Only change is the tires. Car just works. I do run the steering cross brace flipped to tame some of the twitchyness.

I have run the ESC close to the motor, I like a cleanwiring job, but found that my car lacked forward bite and some side bite. When moved the battery back forward bite and side bite were there.
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Old 12-17-2014, 03:19 PM   #11275
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I finally got my RB6 switched over to the MM setup with the motor, battery, esc, servo in line and am hoping to get it on the track today. I haven't been to the clay track in a while but have been running on a very small indoor carpet track lately and just using the stock tires on it till they wear out. I will be throwing the Panther Switch 2.0's back on for the clay. I did find Kohta Akimoto's setup for Champ Stadium on PetitRC.com so I am going to use that to start dialing in the MM setup.
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Old 12-17-2014, 04:26 PM   #11276
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Thanks everyone for the info, that's how I ended up building it. Servo esc/receiver, battery, motor. Still need a 17.5 for it though. Anyone wanna donate?
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:58 PM   #11277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechintosh View Post
I run on Hard Pack Low Med to High Med traction. I run my shorty battery as against the motor (as close as I can get) with out the rear holder. I thought it would remove steering but I still have more steering than most competitor's kits and find myself dialing in some dual rate, 90%. I normally start with the 2 screws that hold the motor cage to the chassis removed, as traction comes up I will add them back in. I find that tire selection is key to making my RB6 work. I run the same setup on outdoor 8th scale type track. Only change is the tires. Car just works. I do run the steering cross brace flipped to tame some of the twitchyness.

I have run the ESC close to the motor, I like a cleanwiring job, but found that my car lacked forward bite and some side bite. When moved the battery back forward bite and side bite were there.
Hey Mechintosh - are you running RM or MM?
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:03 PM   #11278
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Well going to test some things tomorrow. Bought some new tires to grind down to slicks, went to (1.4x3/1.6)30/27.5wt. Then went to pink front springs, associated white rear (was Kyosho pink or red).

My other car I have the same exact setup but with the stock 5 hole pistons.
This one feels really soft, but maybe it will work.

Hope for the best tomorrow.
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:59 PM   #11279
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
associated white rear (was Kyosho pink or red)
If you look on petitrc the big bore spring chart has two columns; listed and measured; according to the measured rate the AE white rear and Kyosho white rear are almost identical so you may not be as heavily sprung as you think. I will have to say that I think the measured is more accurate, I ran the Tebo set up to a T at the surf city and used white AE rears so I wouldn't have to buy springs and my car was money. You may want to try AE gray or the next one up(I forget if it's green).
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:05 PM   #11280
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Ya I'll probably mess around with it.. Rather mess around with $6-7 springs rather then $20-25 springs.
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