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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-05-2012, 05:10 PM   #1111
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Originally Posted by bigwavedave33 View Post
I guess you guys missed the point. A. its not correct in the manual either the part is supposed to be 5.8mm or there should be explanation in the manual to use a metal nut which is not in the kit(and I do read english and japanese), so how could you complete the car without the nuts. IMHO, there should be 5.8mm shock bushings not what others have used as a work around by compressing 4.8mm. Sure it works, but is it right for a $450 kit??? ahhhh no.
The manual could use some improvement, no question there. I feel your pain, once you drive it you start forgetting how crappy the manual is
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Old 10-05-2012, 05:13 PM   #1112
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Just received my kit in the mail. I'll get to the build later this weekend - hopefully. I've still got plenty of nitro racing to do this season and I have to break in a new engine. I'm excited to build the 6 and run it this winter!!!
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Old 10-05-2012, 05:37 PM   #1113
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The manual could use some improvement, no question there. I feel your pain, once you drive it you start forgetting how crappy the manual is
yeah if you have never built a kyosho its not so easy. understanding japanese helps
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Old 10-05-2012, 05:38 PM   #1114
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Originally Posted by bigwavedave33 View Post
I guess you guys missed the point. A. its not correct in the manual either the part is supposed to be 5.8mm or there should be explanation in the manual to use a metal nut which is not in the kit(and I do read english and japanese), so how could you complete the car without the nuts. IMHO, there should be 5.8mm shock bushings not what others have used as a work around by compressing 4.8mm. Sure it works, but is it right for a $450 kit??? ahhhh no.
The copy of the manual I have is from the Kyosho America website. It states that you should use a 5.8mm shock ball in the shock cap. It calls the same item a shock bush when they refer to the shock ball end.

In the exploded diagram the part number listed for the "shock ball" and "shock bush" is the same and is listed as 5303-05. They should have been on this tree.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...stic-Parts-Set

If those balls are not working, then I don't know what is up.

Here is a listing for just the shock ball/bush. Part number W0203.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ck-Bushing-Set
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:09 PM   #1115
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Originally Posted by Rfury View Post
The copy of the manual I have is from the Kyosho America website. It states that you should use a 5.8mm shock ball in the shock cap. It calls the same item a shock bush when they refer to the shock ball end.

In the exploded diagram the part number listed for the "shock ball" and "shock bush" is the same and is listed as 5303-05. They should have been on this tree.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...stic-Parts-Set

If those balls are not working, then I don't know what is up.

Here is a listing for just the shock ball/bush. Part number W0203.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ck-Bushing-Set
Thanks for the links. The manual calls for #11 for top and bottom but calls them 2 different things on page 28 and 29. One says #11 is shock bush(4.8mm) and the other says 5.8mm shock ball. Clearly 2 different parts IMHO since they don't fit properly. Not trying to be an a$$, just making it clear to others that the parts in the kit are NOT there to complete it. Tightening the plastic nuts will just strip them. The fix is to use nyloc nuts and a 1mm shim(plastic or aluminum) to crush the 4.8mm #11 from page 28 to expand it to fit better.
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:31 PM   #1116
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Originally Posted by bigwavedave33 View Post
Thanks for the links. The manual calls for #11 for top and bottom but calls them 2 different things on page 28 and 29. One says #11 is shock bush(4.8mm) and the other says 5.8mm shock ball. Clearly 2 different parts IMHO since they don't fit properly. Not trying to be an a$$, just making it clear to others that the parts in the kit are NOT there to complete it. Tightening the plastic nuts will just strip them. The fix is to use nyloc nuts and a 1mm shim(plastic or aluminum) to crush the 4.8mm #11 from page 28 to expand it to fit better.
In the first amain link. You use the bushing in the upper left for the top of the shock and the balls are next to those for the bottoms. They work perfect and always have!!!! Atleast that is what we use to do. I see the manual is different.
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Last edited by tonyd; 10-05-2012 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:33 PM   #1117
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The "shock bush" goes into the "ball end" which is labeled as 5.8mm.

I have built so many Kyosho cars that I tend to gloss over some of what the text says. I will agree that the manual should be more clear.

I don't have a car in hand and I am just going by what it says. I know the RB5 WC uses the same size "shock ball/bush" in the caps of the rear shocks. I also know that the balls/bush were in the bag with the shocks.

I wish I had a kit in hand to be able to look myself. It is possible that on the first batch that they did not put enough of the 5.8mm balls/bushes in all of the kits.
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:51 PM   #1118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
You know those metal pillars that go through the steering rack? So here I am frantically trying to mount it to the chassis, going over the 6(?) holes in the front plate. Won't fit no matter what I try. Go back to the manual, and it's suppose to fit right through FLUSH to the bulkhead! I mean when you're not awake even your common sense goes out the window.

Mistakes not only happen they compound over each other. But I won't go into that. Sorry, back to the rb6 topic.
Nice to know I'm not alone. I rushed my build and mounted the servo upside down, took it off and remounted it upside down again, screwed the steering rack in backwards, forgot to clip the edges off the top front deck, forgot to screw the grubscrews into the rear link mount, filled the shocks with the opposite oil, etc

lol.

You know what? I miss that stupid little triangle on the motor guard already. Tempted to put the one on the tree on for fun...
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:23 PM   #1119
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
You have the correct bushings... you just need to use a nut that expands the bushing, instead of stripping.
null...
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Last edited by jpcopeland1; 10-06-2012 at 01:25 AM. Reason: question already answered.
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:27 PM   #1120
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Finished my build today, well almost. Still have to paint the body and wing. Came in at 1470g, minus body, wing and transponder.
Typical Kyosho quality build, first rate.
I had one small problem that took a while to fingure out. After I build the transmission(Rear mount), I noticed it didn't spin free. It would tighten up at regular intervals as I spun it. It turned out to be a little flashing on the inside of the idler gear. When the bearings were inserted(they were a very tight fit), it would distort the gear enough to when ever that portion of the idler contacted the diff gear, it caused a little excess drag. After deburring the idler gear, the bearings went in much easier, and the transmission spun like a top.
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:51 PM   #1121
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Originally Posted by bigwavedave33 View Post
I guess you guys missed the point. A. its not correct in the manual either the part is supposed to be 5.8mm or there should be explanation in the manual to use a metal nut which is not in the kit(and I do read english and japanese), so how could you complete the car without the nuts. IMHO, there should be 5.8mm shock bushings not what others have used as a work around by compressing 4.8mm. Sure it works, but is it right for a $450 kit??? ahhhh no.

Hmmm, the manual might not specify but My kit had metal locknuts for the shocks.
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:05 PM   #1122
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Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
Is there a compatibility list for the rb6/rb5?
Your LHS should have one. I took a photo of it here. Sorry for the crappy quality, just a phone scan.





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Old 10-05-2012, 11:57 PM   #1123
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is there an aluminum steering rack yet for the rb6
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Old 10-06-2012, 12:18 AM   #1124
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put about 4 packs through the buggy, night and day between my 22 and the rb6. Im still smilin

Lookin forward to doing some racing tommarrow!
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Old 10-06-2012, 12:40 AM   #1125
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Originally Posted by bigwavedave33 View Post
I guess you guys missed the point. A. its not correct in the manual either the part is supposed to be 5.8mm or there should be explanation in the manual to use a metal nut which is not in the kit(and I do read english and japanese), so how could you complete the car without the nuts. IMHO, there should be 5.8mm shock bushings not what others have used as a work around by compressing 4.8mm. Sure it works, but is it right for a $450 kit??? ahhhh no.
I get what you're saying now and see the confusion - the same part, #11, is used in both the shock cap and the lower shock eyelet. But the manual refers to it as a 5.8mm and a 4.8mm bushing. The manual is incorrect, but the design is correct. The upper shock cap bushings should be loose and do not snap into the shock caps like they did on the RB5. This was the way it was intended.

I don't really know about the quantity of locknuts in the kit, I ended up using anodized aluminum locknuts on my build. FWIW, if you look at the pics of Tebo's car used as the advertisement, it shows the plastic nuts being used. If your kit is missing parts you feel should be in there, give Kyosho America a call, I'm sure they'll be happy to rectify the situation. Hope the rest of the build has gone well for you. Once you hit the track, you'll forget all about the goofy manual
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