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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-09-2014, 04:26 AM   #11221
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thank you for the help with the body. What is the benefit of the 1 degree aluminmum hubs. ???
They add some toe in at the outside of the suspeneion arms. It's like adding toe through the hangars, but it doesn't mess with wheelbase nearly as much.

Adding toe helps to "lock in" the rear and give better traction.
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Old 12-09-2014, 07:04 AM   #11222
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What difference should I feel with the aluminum arm mounts D in D in, vs the stock setup?
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Old 12-09-2014, 02:37 PM   #11223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enigma R/C View Post
Hey guys thought I would post this link to a video up for anyone interested in seeing the difference in running your battery Inline vs. Sideways in a 2wd buggy. Hope this helps answer some question anyone may have on the subject.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vhitSrKBeg

great video/comparison. sideways pack looked like it flew better over the big jump, but definately looked slower overall.
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Old 12-09-2014, 02:56 PM   #11224
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Default Rb6 picks system

Anyone that's put an avid captured thrust bearing in one of the MIP systems know if the avid rb6 thrust bearing is correct for this. It's a little larger than the tlr associated one. 2.5 mm to 2.6 mm
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Old 12-09-2014, 03:20 PM   #11225
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What difference should I feel with the aluminum arm mounts D in D in, vs the stock setup?

Great question as I have gone from D-in / D-in to stock width, which I believe is B-out / B-out. What will this do?
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Old 12-09-2014, 05:28 PM   #11226
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Thanks panda
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Old 12-10-2014, 01:01 AM   #11227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
What difference should I feel with the aluminum arm mounts D in D in, vs the stock setup?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel View Post
Great question as I have gone from D-in / D-in to stock width, which I believe is B-out / B-out. What will this do?
There are lots of info on post #1 (first page), including that.
Wide gives more steering, narrow gives more rear grip.
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:00 AM   #11228
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D-in/D-in combination narrows the hing pins but still keeps the same rear toe. It will make the car role more/easier in the rear going through a turn. Generating more traction.
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Old 12-10-2014, 09:07 PM   #11229
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Just ordered a rb6. Pretty excited for it to get here.
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Old 12-11-2014, 03:17 AM   #11230
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Good deal Panda! What Tracks do you run in Michigan? If you need a base setup let me know. I am pretty much a regular at the Clubhouse. I run mine in mid motor in Stock Buggy.
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:20 AM   #11231
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Pretty much dirt burners, although I have been looking to try clubhouse. Both are about the same distance from my house. This is kinda my "getting back in" car, as I really never raced buggy before.
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:42 AM   #11232
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Thats cool. Last time I was at Dirt Burners was for the Series race in Nov. You should definitely try The Clubhouse. Very nice facility. They are having their first anniversary race on Dec. 20th. Should be a good turn out. The Thanksgiving race had 276 entries. If you need any setup just let me know. Also I would invest in the alum rear hangers. They have alot of adjustability. Then the steering rack.
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Old 12-11-2014, 06:01 AM   #11233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
What difference should I feel with the aluminum arm mounts D in D in, vs the stock setup?
Go back to page 734, first post on page by nastynate. This guy runs at my track along with Zack Rogers. Between the two of them all of us local drivers get tons of good info. These two are constantly working on set ups, changing this and changing that. Right now the consensus is Cin/ Cin. Read Nates post he talks specifically about the hangers.
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:52 AM   #11234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
Go back to page 734, first post on page by nastynate. This guy runs at my track along with Zack Rogers. Between the two of them all of us local drivers get tons of good info. These two are constantly working on set ups, changing this and changing that. Right now the consensus is Cin/ Cin. Read Nates post he talks specifically about the hangers.
I don't have page 734, only 375. This is a preference thing that a user can set to see how many posts per page. Thus the reason for the differences between you and I.

It is all good though. I found his post, #10996 or click here.
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:26 PM   #11235
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Havn't driven any RC in a while. But I remember the last time I took my kit set up rb6, it was very 'loose' on power (no steering input) and very hard to drive. My b4.2 as comparison on the same tyres was on rails that same day. I'm pretty sure I had the lipo as far back as possible.

what I wanted to know is before I take my cars out again, what changes should I make to make this car more driveable. I do not want to go to the dark side again. Track is medium grip 90% of the time, outdoor dirt.

I'm thinking of;
more front droop
more rear toe......got no idea how to do this on this K car
softer rear spring.....or harder?
weights placed in the rear somewhere
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