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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-22-2014, 09:40 AM   #11146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jgins13 View Post
Hi all,
I'm about to buy this kit. Almost exclusively race on a large indoor clay track. New to 2wD buggy class, been racing 4x4SC (Tekin RX8.2, HW Xerun motor, AKA Typo Tires). I'm planning to run the 2wd mod buggy class, and would like your feedback on my proposed electronics and tires. So here's what I'm looking at so far:

Tekin RSX gen 2 (already use Tekin in my SC, and have all the hotwire/programming accessories already)
Not a bad choice for an ESC, and it's something, Mfg. wise you already know and use so it's a logical choice

Tekin 6.5 Turn motor (should I be looking at a 7.5 instead per the RB6 manual?)
Unless you are on a super high bite sugar track, a 6.5 will most likely be way too much motor. A 7.5 should be about the norm. Being new, I might even look at a 8.5, as you could always add a little boost if needed.


Savox 1257TG
Good servo, it's what I have in mine currently. As an optional choice, you could always go with the 1251 short servo. It'll give you more room to play with for esc and rx placement

Aka EVO Typos (I assume the downloadable manual incorrectly lists Short Course as the suggested tires to buy, and that I want 1/10 buggy tires).
If those are what works there, run them. Might have to ask at the track to be sure, but they should work

Planning to run the RM config. What's the best choice for 2S battery (straight, shorty, saddle)? Mains at my track are either 5 or 7 minutes.
In Rm, you can get away with the full size packs, but I'd probably look at the shorty pack, if you ever decide to go MM, you'll be happy you have that pack. You can also run the square/saddle packs in either and some do prefer the extra weight. It's a preference thing on that. The shorty packs should easily run way more that the mains times you're looking at, so that shouldn't be an issue.

What size pinions should I get as a starting point assuming mod racing with a 6.5 (or 7.5 if you think I should be getting that one instea)?
On a 7.5 I was running 24/76, running 21-22/76 would be about right for a 7.5. 24/76 should be pretty close for a 8.5 if you decide to go that way.

Thanks for all the help.
Hope that helps you out.
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Old 11-22-2014, 10:12 AM   #11147
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I will be running an 8.5T motor, is a 45A ESC good enough or should I get something with more Amps. I ran 45A in my on road cars so I figured it should be enough in a 2wd buggy.
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Old 11-24-2014, 12:38 PM   #11148
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Anyone try the LW chassis on carpet?
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Old 11-24-2014, 04:40 PM   #11149
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for stock racing would you guys recommend going with ceramic bearings in the transmission or using the stock ones? if I go ceramic what manufacturers do you recommend?
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Old 11-24-2014, 04:44 PM   #11150
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Quote:
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for stock racing would you guys recommend going with ceramic bearings in the transmission or using the stock ones? if I go ceramic what manufacturers do you recommend?
Acer racing makes a nice ceramic set for 67 bucks on ebay
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Old 11-24-2014, 05:24 PM   #11151
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Quote:
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Acer racing makes a nice ceramic set for 67 bucks on ebay
Or direct w/ Free shipping
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:05 PM   #11152
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Or direct w/ Free shipping
True. And dont forget 2 5x13x4 ceramic bearings if u run the kyosho rear hubs
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Old 11-24-2014, 10:01 PM   #11153
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Anybody out there running the gear diff? If so what weight oil are you using. I'm running on high bite indoor clay
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:19 AM   #11154
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I just picked up a rb6, and looked over the last few pages of this thread which have me a general idea of some good option parts to pick up, but would anyone like to weigh in on some "must have" option parts for a rb6 that's going to run in stock class?

I already ordered kyosho aluminum rear hubs, and the schelle steering rack.
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:40 AM   #11155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiTeyFU View Post
I just picked up a rb6, and looked over the last few pages of this thread which have me a general idea of some good option parts to pick up, but would anyone like to weigh in on some "must have" option parts for a rb6 that's going to run in stock class?

I already ordered kyosho aluminum rear hubs, and the schelle steering rack.
Aluminum hangars for rear and mid
Pucks
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:11 AM   #11156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiTeyFU View Post
I just picked up a rb6, and looked over the last few pages of this thread which have me a general idea of some good option parts to pick up, but would anyone like to weigh in on some "must have" option parts for a rb6 that's going to run in stock class?

I already ordered kyosho aluminum rear hubs, and the schelle steering rack.
Be sure to check the first post on the first page
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Old 11-25-2014, 06:05 PM   #11157
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For anybody running a low profile servo. How far did you have to shim the servo forward so that it doesn't hit the bulkhead. The tolerances are so tight I'm having a hell of a time getting it right
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:32 PM   #11158
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For anybody running a low profile servo. How far did you have to shim the servo forward so that it doesn't hit the bulkhead. The tolerances are so tight I'm having a hell of a time getting it right
i used both shims on an rsx one10, stock kyosho horns clears perfect as does the alloy losi 22 horn. you can dremel the top plates underside for clearance if need be
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Old 11-27-2014, 06:37 PM   #11159
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I have a SC6 and a RB6. I've just added a D413 after reading some very positive reviews. I seriously considered the ZX6 -- a very tough decision.

Although the Hot Bodies has some really innovative features and durability is proven, which sold me on it -- I must say that my Kyosho RCs are among the best built. Just something about the tolerances and the quality of the materials that really impress me. For example I am always careful about making sure my screws aren't overtightened. I managed to strip the plastic in the rear arm of my D413. Cripes. Don't get me wrong the D413 isn't exactly low grade because as mentioned it's pretty innovative and some of the materials are of higher quality... it's just after being spoiled by Kyosho the bar is pretty high. After spending a few days putting this new ride together I picked up my K cars and instantly noticed a difference, in favor of the Kyosho.

I hit the track for the first time tomorrow with the D413 hoping for a good first impression but I am thinking in the back of my mind what if I had purchased the ZX6.

Anyways I will be running my RB6 with a new square pack tomorrow. I have been struggling with rear traction (most 2WD buggies do) at my local track recently and thinking the only answer right now is the added weight. I've tried multiple setups with a shorty and nothing has worked. Stay tuned.
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Old 11-28-2014, 08:59 AM   #11160
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I ran saddles all the way back and rear traction went up considerably. For my local track it was too much but for the looser or dusty tracks, it was perfect.
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