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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-20-2014, 06:00 AM   #11131
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Yeah I was thinking on the topic of inserts/pills. I have a bunch of B5 Rear rims.
Offset seems quite different than the wheels that come with RB6.
Haven't seen a conclusive answer on what people do here to run AE Rear rims (seen the question asked a few times).
Do folks just run the 'OUT' settings (i.e widening the track-width) to compensate for the offset differences with AE rims ?
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:57 AM   #11132
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Originally Posted by tobamiester View Post
Yeah I was thinking on the topic of inserts/pills. I have a bunch of B5 Rear rims.
Offset seems quite different than the wheels that come with RB6.
Haven't seen a conclusive answer on what people do here to run AE Rear rims (seen the question asked a few times).
Do folks just run the 'OUT' settings (i.e widening the track-width) to compensate for the offset differences with AE rims ?
The offset are the same on RB5 and RB6.
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:29 AM   #11133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hloland View Post
The offset are the same on RB5 and RB6.
I'm talking about AE B5 rims ..
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Old 11-20-2014, 10:24 AM   #11134
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Originally Posted by tobamiester View Post
Yeah I was thinking on the topic of inserts/pills. I have a bunch of B5 Rear rims.
Offset seems quite different than the wheels that come with RB6.
Haven't seen a conclusive answer on what people do here to run AE Rear rims (seen the question asked a few times).
Do folks just run the 'OUT' settings (i.e widening the track-width) to compensate for the offset differences with AE rims ?
You can run them fine a hair narrower but not enough to make it drive much different.
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Old 11-20-2014, 01:24 PM   #11135
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Originally Posted by MODELTECH22 View Post
Hey guys just picked up a used RB6, looks to be completly box stock except frt aluminium bulk head (hinge pin holder) what do i need or change? I run on indoor medium bite clay track.

anything????
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Old 11-20-2014, 03:02 PM   #11136
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anything????
You don't need to change anything, however, there are always things to be done to give the car a little more pazazz.

I would pickup an extra steering assembly, and plastic hangars, or just get both in aluminum if you have the money to. Those are typically the things that break first.
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Old 11-20-2014, 03:18 PM   #11137
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anything????
Agree with above post.
1) Aluminum steering assembly. Kyosho is good or Schelle.
2) Kyosho adjustable rear aluminum hangers UMW 705 and either 706 (rear motor) or 707 (mid motor)

3x1.4 front pistons and 2x1.6 rear pistons work very well as well as extra sets of springs f/r if you have the $$$.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:45 PM   #11138
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Originally Posted by Gayosaka View Post
If you use the same insert front to rear, you don't change toe-in, it stays at 3 per side. You only change overall width and roll center (wider means less roll).
C in/C in is 3 degrees, as D in/D in or B out/B out.
D in front/C in rear is 3.5 degrees
C in front/D in rear is 2.5 degrees
Etc.
This post just blew my mind. I'm so confused now.
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Old 11-20-2014, 09:21 PM   #11139
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Originally Posted by dpcardoza View Post
This post just blew my mind. I'm so confused now.
Just make sure and not lose the chart that comes with the hinge pin holders. There's all kinds of combos, from 0 to 6 degrees of toe and you can mess with the track width a little at the same time.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:51 AM   #11140
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Just make sure and not lose the chart that comes with the hinge pin holders. There's all kinds of combos, from 0 to 6 degrees of toe and you can mess with the track width a little at the same time.
I have the one that goes on front of the tranny and am running d in x2 but I guess I didn't think about the fact that d in is relative to whatever is behind the tranny case. And for that I have no idea what I've got there. Didn't buy the adjustable one for the rear.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:56 AM   #11141
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Originally Posted by E73 View Post
Agree with above post.
1) Aluminum steering assembly. Kyosho is good or Schelle.
2) Kyosho adjustable rear aluminum hangers UMW 705 and either 706 (rear motor) or 707 (mid motor)

3x1.4 front pistons and 2x1.6 rear pistons work very well as well as extra sets of springs f/r if you have the $$$.
thanks this is what i was looking for. The pistons do the associated 3x1.4 and 2x1.6 work?
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Old 11-21-2014, 11:44 AM   #11142
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Originally Posted by dpcardoza View Post
I have the one that goes on front of the tranny and am running d in x2 but I guess I didn't think about the fact that d in is relative to whatever is behind the tranny case. And for that I have no idea what I've got there. Didn't buy the adjustable one for the rear.
If you look on the right side of that chart it has pictures of the RF RF2, RR and RR2 and gives the toe in combos. That might be able to get an idea of what you are running?
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Old 11-21-2014, 11:47 AM   #11143
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As I just finished up my build, here is a pic of the Chart


Last edited by tobamiester; 11-21-2014 at 02:11 PM.
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:28 PM   #11144
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Side note, and i think it was mentioned before....Fitted a JC Silencer (for B5M) to my RB6 with minor mods. Fits pretty good. Saves painting yet another body
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Old 11-22-2014, 08:52 AM   #11145
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Default Getting a RB6 - sanity check on required items

Hi all,
I'm about to buy this kit. Almost exclusively race on a large indoor clay track. New to 2wD buggy class, been racing 4x4SC (Tekin RX8.2, HW Xerun motor, AKA Typo Tires). I'm planning to run the 2wd mod buggy class, and would like your feedback on my proposed electronics and tires. So here's what I'm looking at so far:

Tekin RSX gen 2 (already use Tekin in my SC, and have all the hotwire/programming accessories already)
Tekin 6.5 Turn motor (should I be looking at a 7.5 instead per the RB6 manual?)
Savox 1257TG
Aka EVO Typos (I assume the downloadable manual incorrectly lists Short Course as the suggested tires to buy, and that I want 1/10 buggy tires).

Planning to run the RM config. What's the best choice for 2S battery (straight, shorty, saddle)? Mains at my track are either 5 or 7 minutes.

What size pinions should I get as a starting point assuming mod racing with a 6.5 (or 7.5 if you think I should be getting that one instea)?

Thanks for all the help.
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