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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-16-2014, 06:55 AM   #11116
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Originally Posted by dpcardoza View Post
Makes me wonder if the exotec aluminum diff nut will work?
It probably would since I just used all the stock stuff out of my stock kyosho diff to build the mip diff. The exotek diff nut is supposed to replace the stock nut.
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Old 11-16-2014, 09:11 AM   #11117
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Maybe this is just me being a idiot and wanting to try things. On my home track (damp/wet) you need a really firm insert. I currently have the AKA foams in which are firm, but wondering if a even firmer insert would work better?

What would happen if I cut down a open cell foam and slid it under the AKA foam? Would that work, or would it just act ridiculous?
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Old 11-16-2014, 09:16 AM   #11118
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
Maybe this is just me being a idiot and wanting to try things. On my home track (damp/wet) you need a really firm insert. I currently have the AKA foams in which are firm, but wondering if a even firmer insert would work better?

What would happen if I cut down a open cell foam and slid it under the AKA foam? Would that work, or would it just act ridiculous?
The new dirt tech inserts by jconcepts are firmer then the aka inserts.
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Old 11-16-2014, 08:37 PM   #11119
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This is a random question but my kids stripped my 25t servo horn today. I only use the 25t and have the remainder of the 23 and 24t horns. Antibody interested in swapping? Think I have 2 of each.
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Old 11-16-2014, 09:21 PM   #11120
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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
Thanks for the info/confirmation I will just grab the little T thing from a spare diff I have since that's all I need from that part.
I tried taking mine out and it self-destructed. So had to order a new one for the puck ball diff and got a couple exoteks for the original and a backup for the pucker
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Old 11-16-2014, 10:23 PM   #11121
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Originally Posted by dpcardoza View Post
This is a random question but my kids stripped my 25t servo horn today. I only use the 25t and have the remainder of the 23 and 24t horns. Antibody interested in swapping? Think I have 2 of each.
I'd swap for your 23t horns. I can mail out the 25t to you. Just pm me your address and I'll reply with address.
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Old 11-17-2014, 12:32 PM   #11122
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Originally Posted by joecool View Post
I'd swap for your 23t horns. I can mail out the 25t to you. Just pm me your address and I'll reply with address.
Anybody else. I've got 2 24t servo horns for you hitec guys.
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Old 11-19-2014, 06:48 AM   #11123
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Looking for a setup to lead me in the right direction..

Usually the track I run on is medium to high. But with how my car feels I would say low haha.

The car just doesn't traction, and you can't drive it. It's weird because at the opposite track it's on rails. Doesn't really want to carry connor speed, just hard to drive, and hard to drive hard at all.

Yesterday I ran the Zach Rogers setup, and it was way better, but still feel it lacked traction all the way around and was hard to drive. (just cause I know what it's capable of).

What setup would you suggest running?

low-Medium (inconsisent)bite/medium size/damp-wet
Usually most run panther slicks, running panther rears/slicked proline fronts
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Old 11-19-2014, 07:39 AM   #11124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
Looking for a setup to lead me in the right direction..

Usually the track I run on is medium to high. But with how my car feels I would say low haha.

The car just doesn't traction, and you can't drive it. It's weird because at the opposite track it's on rails. Doesn't really want to carry connor speed, just hard to drive, and hard to drive hard at all.

Yesterday I ran the Zach Rogers setup, and it was way better, but still feel it lacked traction all the way around and was hard to drive. (just cause I know what it's capable of).

What setup would you suggest running?

low-Medium (inconsisent)bite/medium size/damp-wet
Usually most run panther slicks, running panther rears/slicked proline fronts
Sounds like your tire compound, or prep are not in the right ballpark.
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:48 AM   #11125
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Sounds like your tire compound, or prep are not in the right ballpark.
I thought the same thing, but the same tires on my B5M is pretty good. And that is using the same sauce also.
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Old 11-19-2014, 03:32 PM   #11126
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
I thought the same thing, but the same tires on my B5M is pretty good. And that is using the same sauce also.
Try different diff tightness. It changes a lot how the car drives in and out of the corner.
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Old 11-19-2014, 03:35 PM   #11127
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Default setup

[QUOTE=3srcracing;13667723]Looking for a setup to lead me in the right direction..

Usually the track I run on is medium to high. But with how my car feels I would say low haha.

The car just doesn't traction, and you can't drive it. It's weird because at the opposite track it's on rails. Doesn't really want to carry connor speed, just hard to drive, and hard to drive hard at all.

Yesterday I ran the Zach Rogers setup, and it was way better, but still feel it lacked traction all the way around and was hard to drive. (just cause I know what it's capable of).

What setup would you suggest running?

take all the bottom screws out..also ad more toe if you have the adjustable rear hangers..i always ran d-in/d in be cause most were running it..i now run c in c in..or even b in..most will say thats way too much toe? who cares,as long as it works..mycar still has tons of steering..but screws out the bottom motor cage and side guards..also hubs all the way forward.. i run kings setup from the 2014 rroc plus zachs 17.8 mod and.. in my mod buggy i added weight,in stock no weight added
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Old 11-20-2014, 05:06 AM   #11128
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Hey guys just picked up a used RB6, looks to be completly box stock except frt aluminium bulk head (hinge pin holder) what do i need or change? I run on indoor medium bite clay track.
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Old 11-20-2014, 05:32 AM   #11129
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Ran this car for the first time a few days ago and I must say, this thing is so consistent and fast and so much traction and steering. This thing is amazing my lap times are posted below, in btwn laps I was adjusting my radio as this was literally the first time I put the car down on the track, maiden voyage if you will. Fast laps are high 14s low 15s. I run on carpet and all I can say is I wanted this car for a long time and tried another brand for a while and was struggling to do a 15s lap consistently. The results speak for themselves and Im happy with the RB6. Drove the RB5 WC and loved it. Dont even know why I strayed from The big K.
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Old 11-20-2014, 05:41 AM   #11130
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
rear hangers..i always ran d-in/d in be cause most were running it..i now run c in c in..or even b in..most will say thats way too much toe? who cares,as long as it works.
If you use the same insert front to rear, you don't change toe-in, it stays at 3 per side. You only change overall width and roll center (wider means less roll).
C in/C in is 3 degrees, as D in/D in or B out/B out.
D in front/C in rear is 3.5 degrees
C in front/D in rear is 2.5 degrees
Etc.
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