172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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11-02-2014, 04:57 AM
Are you talking about the crush sleeve in the hub? If so you'll want to install it so the bearings don't bind when you tighten down the wheel nut. I just ran into the same issue last weekened. Haha.
11-02-2014, 06:22 AM
11-02-2014, 06:37 AM
You still want to use the brass collars. I'm running the same mip pucks system in 17.5. Definitely made a difference in acceleration out of corners. Another plus is the axles are nice and long, don't have to worry about your wheel falling off.
11-02-2014, 08:16 AM
The gear diff sucked, I had 7k and it leaked out after 1 run lol
11-02-2014, 08:18 AM
11-02-2014, 12:38 PM
I picked up one of these awesome buggies. It was a toss up between the RB6 and the AE B5M. I think the RB6 is a better buggy so that is why I picked it over the B5M. I'm kinda getting sick of the SCT scene so I'm hoping next year at the track that I race will have more 1/10 buggies. Right now everybody is running 1/8 buggy and 4wd SCT. There is a 2wd class but still only a handful of people are running buggies. What do I need to know about this buggy. I can still run a few races before the season is over, then I have all winter to tune it up for the next season.
11-02-2014, 03:29 PM
To run the 521 arms do you really need all the parts listed on the first page?
11-02-2014, 05:19 PM
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Has anyone had issues with the schelle steering rack combined with j concept steering arms? The screws that mate the rack to the arms keep backing out on me even with a dab of blue locktite. Any advice is appreciated
11-02-2014, 05:29 PM
Just wanted to give everyone an update on the Zack Rogers mm setup... in short. It's AWESOME!! I thought I had my car pretty dialed with the straight RB5 rear arms but this blows my old setup away. Incredible forward bite without giving up its natural cornering ability. Thank you Zack!
11-02-2014, 07:27 PM
I haven't had problems yet. I would clean them with alcohol then put a dab of blue loctite and see what happens. Cleaning the screws before hand does wonders.
11-02-2014, 07:29 PM
Thanks for answering my previous question guys. Got the car about ready.
One thing I want for this winter is an AC dual charger because Id like to have less crap to lug to the track and will be running two classes-2wd and 4wd buggy.
I really like this charger but there is very little discussion on rctech and hope someone can just tell me it's great because I like the small size and power for an AC unit:
Elangears Elan R X2 Dual Charger LIPO NIMH AC/DC USB 180W Power Supply
I have no idea why all the charger makers don't design their units vertically to save pit space, but until I am a charger designer for some company (ha!) I guess I will have to get what I can get.
One thing I want for this winter is an AC dual charger because Id like to have less crap to lug to the track and will be running two classes-2wd and 4wd buggy.
I really like this charger but there is very little discussion on rctech and hope someone can just tell me it's great because I like the small size and power for an AC unit:
Elangears Elan R X2 Dual Charger LIPO NIMH AC/DC USB 180W Power Supply
I have no idea why all the charger makers don't design their units vertically to save pit space, but until I am a charger designer for some company (ha!) I guess I will have to get what I can get.
11-02-2014, 07:34 PM
I see what you guys are saying, but need a little more info here. Reason is that I have the 2mm of spacers on the outside of the rear hub for full track width. Leaving the back side of the hub just as it would be with the stock bones and axle stubs, so unless I am missing something, the dog bone plunge should be the exact same as the stock would be when running the D in/D in. I can/could see what you guys mean if I had the 2mm spacers on the back side of the rear hub, which would push the bones 2mm further and for sure bind. Which I suppose one couple opt for the same 2mm longer axle stubs and run the 62.5 bones and that should give a total plunge of 1mm less than stock or just the stock axle stubs and bones, if trying to run both the narrow pivot and narrow track width. I did try that as well, just to see if it would work.
11-02-2014, 07:51 PM
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521 arms
KYO1-S12605H & Kyosho 2.6x5mm Button Head Screw by just drilling out the 521 arms and mounting them like the stock arms arm mounted. You will need to use some 1mm spacers to shim the stock outer suspension shaft, as for eyelets I think I am using the stock or med eyelets.
11-02-2014, 09:34 PM
Thanks for answering my previous question guys. Got the car about ready.
One thing I want for this winter is an AC dual charger because Id like to have less crap to lug to the track and will be running two classes-2wd and 4wd buggy.
I really like this charger but there is very little discussion on rctech and hope someone can just tell me it's great because I like the small size and power for an AC unit:
Elangears Elan R X2 Dual Charger LIPO NIMH AC/DC USB 180W Power Supply
I have no idea why all the charger makers don't design their units vertically to save pit space, but until I am a charger designer for some company (ha!) I guess I will have to get what I can get.
One thing I want for this winter is an AC dual charger because Id like to have less crap to lug to the track and will be running two classes-2wd and 4wd buggy.
I really like this charger but there is very little discussion on rctech and hope someone can just tell me it's great because I like the small size and power for an AC unit:
Elangears Elan R X2 Dual Charger LIPO NIMH AC/DC USB 180W Power Supply
I have no idea why all the charger makers don't design their units vertically to save pit space, but until I am a charger designer for some company (ha!) I guess I will have to get what I can get.
11-03-2014, 04:35 AM
