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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-24-2014, 12:57 PM   #10951
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Ya crazy deal they had going on. They were losing money because cost isn't that low.

What steering rack is the best to get/cheapest.
I run the exotek and have no complaints. The stylish red suits mine best.
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Old 10-24-2014, 04:32 PM   #10952
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I'm moving from mod to 17.5T stock and just wondering what people think are must do's for stock racing.

The car already has the aluminum steering and adjustable rear hangers.
I will be putting the aluminum 10g front pivot block and aluminum rear hubs for tuning option and durability.
I know in stock you need to reduce weight but I feel these parts are musts
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:00 PM   #10953
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you really shouldn't need to do much if you can drive consistently. The lightweight parts help, but consistency helps more.
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Old 10-25-2014, 04:14 AM   #10954
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I agree with ThePanda. The car does not "need" hop ups and some guys run 100% box stock although I like to run the rear aluminum hubs and adjustable suspension hangers. My cars do have lots of goodies on them but not for durability. I like the bling. My original rb6 has never broken and I just now refreshed plastics and its as good as new. Can't stress enough the importance of set up and good tire choice.
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Old 10-25-2014, 05:09 PM   #10955
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Cheers guys and yes I agree with what was said and personally not a big subscriber that light is always the way to go but doesn't hurt to see what people think.
I'm looking forward to venturing into stock to hopefully improve my consistency as that is what has been lacking in mod for me.
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Old 10-26-2014, 06:06 PM   #10956
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Will these fit the front axles?
http://prolineracing.com/wheels/velo...yellow-wheels/
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Old 10-26-2014, 06:11 PM   #10957
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not with the stock hex. the hex on those wheels is to deeply set and it will hit the hub. if you trim the wheels they will work though.

or run the rb5 axle and aluminum hex. then it will work too, with no trimmig needed.
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:47 PM   #10958
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K sweet, maybe I'll see if someone wants to trade some wheels then.

Also what shock pistons is everyone using?
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Old 10-26-2014, 09:30 PM   #10959
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Anyone gone back to a LW chassis these days?
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:20 AM   #10960
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Does anyone know where i can buy a bulk amout (25-50) metal 1mm spacers like for our ball studs? Thnx
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Old 10-27-2014, 10:12 AM   #10961
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Anybody know if the Avid wheels will work on the rb6? http://avidrc.com/product/2/wheels/4...-Y-wheels.html
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Old 10-27-2014, 10:35 AM   #10962
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You have to trim the front hex just a tiny bit but I use them
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Old 10-27-2014, 11:31 AM   #10963
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Quote:
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You have to trim the front hex just a tiny bit but I use them
Cool. I bought a 6pk of them for my 22 last season and have a couple that I haven't even used yet. Was gonna try them with the aka evo conversion with typos.
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Old 10-27-2014, 03:52 PM   #10964
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Anyone gone back to a LW chassis these days?
+1

Also, has anyone played around with moving the front c-hub up and down and what the benefits are? I moved them up and down this past Sunday and it seemed the higher I went the more turn in it had. I'm not sure if that's the case because the traction was coming up as the sun went down.
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Old 10-27-2014, 05:11 PM   #10965
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One of our stock racers at our club says the MIP Puck system is worth the investment as he runs it in his 22 so I figure it must be good as this guy is a no gobbledygook guy.
So I’m looking at putting it in my RB6 and don’t know much about it so after some input/advice. (didn’t see any info on the front page but could have easily missed it)

I am also looking at putting the 97030 Kyosho 3/32" Tungsten Carbide Differential Ball (Since the MIP system only comes with Chrome Steel Ball) or can anyone recommend other 3/32” balls for the diff?
Plus I’ll put the AVID 2.6x6x3mm Kyosho Differential Thrust Bearing (Tungsten Carbide)
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