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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-05-2012, 10:26 AM   #1081
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look down into the hole on the otherside and get them lined up.. its just high tolerance fit.

it took me like 15mins of playing, then it went in snugly. put the screw in and boom-- butter.
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:28 AM   #1082
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another thing that may help is to put your 1.5mm driver into the other side, all the way thru (w/ the pin out) then wiggle it in a circular motion to line it up. then put the pin thru, pushing the driver out. that is how i did it exactly.
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:36 AM   #1083
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edit.. wait.. what's the issue? Why do you have the 2.5mm cap screw in before the hingpin? You put the hing pin in through the arm first, the long end sticking out the front of the car... then make sure the flat spot lines up with the set screw in the middle... and THEN you cap off the other end with the 2.5 so the pin cant come out.
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:51 AM   #1084
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Guys thanks for the responses. So I put the cap screw in first - and a wrong 3x6 screw! So I am guessing the cap screw hole and nub at the end bulged out excessively, causing the hole that will carry the hinge pin to narrow.

Had a quick look at the rb5 to confirm, out came the xacto, took off the protruding plastics and nub, reamed the arm holes smooth, including the sus holder (chewy type plastic, took a while). Sanded the face of the holes smooth. Slop was the last thing on my mind it was binding so bad!

Much better now. Almost 2am I should build when awake! Thanks all
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:54 AM   #1085
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Did you not punch a hole in your rear tires one looks to be ballooned pretty good.
i dont punch holes in my tires normally, unless its a really dusty track, it looks like that becase the camber is way off on that side and i just got done driving it like that lol, i get impatient
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:59 AM   #1086
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Guys thanks for the responses. So I put the cap screw in first - and a wrong 3x6 screw! So I am guessing the cap screw hole and nub at the end bulged out excessively, causing the hole that will carry the hinge pin to narrow.

Had a quick look at the rb5 to confirm, out came the xacto, took off the protruding plastics and nub, reamed the arm holes smooth, including the sus holder (chewy type plastic, took a while). Sanded the face of the holes smooth. Slop was the last thing on my mind it was binding so bad!

Much better now. Almost 2am I should build when awake! Thanks all
Yeah, you got that one all KINDS of wrong. Hing pin first, then set screw, then tiny 2.5mm screw to cap off the end so the pin can't come back out. You forced a 3mm by 6mm screw into the 2.5mm hole?
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:06 AM   #1087
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Yeah, you got that one all KINDS of wrong. Hing pin first, then set screw, then tiny 2.5mm screw to cap off the end so the pin can't come back out. You forced a 3mm by 6mm screw into the 2.5mm hole?
Yeah it's hard to notice and feel when you're half asleep This six is so cool the adrenaline is keeping me up. Cheers! zzzzz
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:06 AM   #1088
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hoping for round 2 at the track tommorow(if work permits, damn railroad) im gonna bring a shorty pack to try also and see how it compares vs the saddle packs, im assuming the saddle packs would have less body roll than the shorty because they weight is distributed over a wider area, but i could be wrong. ill let everyone know my findings
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:09 AM   #1089
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Yeah it's hard to notice and feel when you're half asleep This six is so cool the adrenaline is keeping me up. Cheers! zzzzz
Oh no, I know exactly what it's like! I took 3 benedril right before I started my build yesterday (extreme allergy attack). Took me 8 hours to get through just the front end, before you start the diff. At one point I realized it took me almost 30 minutes just to turn the page after I was done with the last step of the previous page.
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:11 AM   #1090
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ha good catch.

i made a rule to myself, no building after 1030. that way i'm not tired and i can coherently recall what/why i was doing things the way i did the next day.

unless i have a race coming up the next day.. thats a whole other story
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:45 AM   #1091
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ha good catch.

i made a rule to myself, no building after 1030. that way i'm not tired and i can coherently recall what/why i was doing things the way i did the next day.

unless i have a race coming up the next day.. thats a whole other story
You know those metal pillars that go through the steering rack? So here I am frantically trying to mount it to the chassis, going over the 6(?) holes in the front plate. Won't fit no matter what I try. Go back to the manual, and it's suppose to fit right through FLUSH to the bulkhead! I mean when you're not awake even your common sense goes out the window.

Mistakes not only happen they compound over each other. But I won't go into that. Sorry, back to the rb6 topic.
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:51 AM   #1092
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You know those metal pillars that go through the steering rack? So here I am frantically trying to mount it to the chassis, going over the 6(?) holes in the front plate. Won't fit no matter what I try. Go back to the manual, and it's suppose to fit right through FLUSH to the bulkhead! I mean when you're not awake even your common sense goes out the window.

Mistakes not only happen they compound over each other. But I won't go into that. Sorry, back to the rb6 topic.
Quick, somebody take the RB6 away from gelshocker before he does more damage! Go get some sleep man
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:03 PM   #1093
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has anyone found metal shims to replace ALL of the factory plastics, preferably red?

thats one thing i liked about the Durango, it had additional touches that oozed sexiness.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:53 PM   #1094
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has anyone found metal shims to replace ALL of the factory plastics, preferably red?

thats one thing i liked about the Durango, it had additional touches that oozed sexiness.
I run all light blue aluminum washers on my cars... you can get them on ebay. I use 3racing and ofna.. there are all kinds of colors.

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Old 10-05-2012, 12:54 PM   #1095
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
has anyone found metal shims to replace ALL of the factory plastics, preferably red?

thats one thing i liked about the Durango, it had additional touches that oozed sexiness.
I run all light blue aluminum washers on my cars... you can get them on ebay. I use 3racing and ofna. There are all kinds of colors.

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