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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-16-2014, 02:57 PM   #10921
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Get the shelle steering rack that has the extra outer hole. It has bearings and works nice.
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Old 10-18-2014, 09:22 PM   #10922
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And use the outside hole as well

Anyone every try more droop up front? I'm curious what it would do....
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:42 PM   #10923
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Originally Posted by Jspires688 View Post
Whats everyone using as a shock package oil weight springs and pistons? Right now im using 1.6 2 hole int he front 1.7 2 hole inthe rear 35 wt front and rear
I'm using tlr 30wt front 27.5wt rear with losi 56 pistons. The other common setup is same wt oil with 1.6 pistons. Gold rear pink from springs. Most of the drivers at my track have drilled an extra hole on the rear a arm to make the rear shocks set up a little more. Check Zack Rogers setup on petitrc. I can't post links yet lol.
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Old 10-19-2014, 06:54 AM   #10924
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What is needed to put regular hexes in the front. What parts are needed??
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:11 AM   #10925
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Originally Posted by Potoczak View Post
What is needed to put regular hexes in the front. What parts are needed??
The rb5 axles and the clamp hexes should do it.
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:16 AM   #10926
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The rb5 axles and the clamp hexes should do it.
Does it give the same offset as stock??
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:23 AM   #10927
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Does it give the same offset as stock??
I don't believe so. It's part of the reason it allows you to run the larger hex wheels though... It puts the hex farther out of the hub.
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Old 10-19-2014, 11:45 AM   #10928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
And use the outside hole as well

Anyone every try more droop up front? I'm curious what it would do....
I've played with the front drop a lot. Adding droop will slow down your initial steering, it CAN lessen your on power steering but you can correct it with other adjustments, it lands better and hits rough sections better, it lessens the "lawn dart" situations when your nose is a little too low on a landing, allows more weight to transfer back which can be both good and bad depending. I liked this somewhat outdoors.

I've softened the front pistons and oils (never the springs which makes me want to revisit this again) to try and get the best of both worlds but so far, i have always ended up going back to 20 or 20.5 with the medium eyelets. I just make sure I land a little nose higher than normal. I race on a tight track so sharp and consistent steering is the only way to be on pace.
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Old 10-19-2014, 01:51 PM   #10929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
And use the outside hole as well

Anyone every try more droop up front? I'm curious what it would do....

I ran more front droop for a while. It gave the car more overall steering especially as you get on the throttle on exit, almost too twitchy in some cases. It def landed jumps better and was more stable on the brakes. I basically ran the same shock length in the front but put on TLR 22 eyelets and spring cups. This was on my other rb6 with the stick chassis. My current car has the light weight chassis and I have not tried it with this chassis.
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Old 10-19-2014, 06:34 PM   #10930
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I went to the inside hole on the arm and med shock ends. It gave more over all steering but it didn't have the initial steering like outside on the arm. But you can change the front link to get some back.
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:50 AM   #10931
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Amazon has the roller for $330. Isn't that a pretty decent deal since everywhere i see them going for over 4?

With prime you can have it thursday.
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:51 AM   #10932
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...
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Old 10-21-2014, 12:18 PM   #10933
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That's a great deal actually.
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Old 10-21-2014, 05:22 PM   #10934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmcamaroz28 View Post
Amazon has the roller for $330. Isn't that a pretty decent deal since everywhere i see them going for over 4?

With prime you can have it thursday.
That's about as good as a deal you can get. Assuming it's new.
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:57 PM   #10935
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Definitely new. Sold direct by Amazon. Part numbers match.

http://www.amazon.com/Kyosho-ULTIMA-...rds=kyosho+rb6
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