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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-21-2014, 02:54 PM   #10816
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Which body is that? Proline or j concepts??
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Old 09-21-2014, 06:10 PM   #10817
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Tell me about it, cuts off way up by the motor plate. I think I'm going to get the rb6 specific silencer and get it on there.

It's the jc silencer.
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Old 09-21-2014, 06:11 PM   #10818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ostach24 View Post
rb6 with a nice new shell... yes it is a b5m body, I am aware. I wanted to try to set up the batteries a little different than I have seen, just need to figure out what battery straps will work.
I ran my saddles like this for a while. you definitely get more rear grip but almost too much. i was running the newer 17.8 hole which could have been my problem and the back end was a little too soft and wouldn't put enough weight on the front end to steer. The wheelies were a little frustrating as well.
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Old 09-21-2014, 06:15 PM   #10819
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What did you use for a battery strap? I was thinking of trying the b44.2 straps.... Just haven't had a chance to check.
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Old 09-21-2014, 06:47 PM   #10820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ostach24 View Post
What did you use for a battery strap? I was thinking of trying the b44.2 straps.... Just haven't had a chance to check.
i have seen some guys use industrial strength velcro...surprisingly it works well
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Old 09-21-2014, 06:55 PM   #10821
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What did you use for a battery strap? I was thinking of trying the b44.2 straps.... Just haven't had a chance to check.
Strong double sided adhesive tape.
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Old 09-21-2014, 08:50 PM   #10822
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I'm running a rear motor set up and looking for more steering over all expecialy off power or entry to mid part of the corner any suggestions. Thanks.
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Old 09-22-2014, 10:08 AM   #10823
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Remove some front droop
Move some weight forward.
Drag brake
Lower front ride height
Anything that let's the car to transfer weight to front sooner
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Old 09-22-2014, 12:53 PM   #10824
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Quote:
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What did you use for a battery strap? I was thinking of trying the b44.2 straps.... Just haven't had a chance to check.

I tried that too, it drives like a rear motor car on throttle but swings around off power. If its loose ITS REAL LOOSE. If its locked in it doesnt turn.

Here is what I did to hold the battery down.
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Old 09-23-2014, 06:34 AM   #10825
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Has anyone tried to use a different brand rear axle?? Looking for longer ones. I know avid sells the extended ones but they wil be on back order for another 4 to 5 weeks. Looking for something to hold me over till then.
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:10 AM   #10826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Potoczak View Post
Has anyone tried to use a different brand rear axle?? Looking for longer ones. I know avid sells the extended ones but they wil be on back order for another 4 to 5 weeks. Looking for something to hold me over till then.
My first question would be why?

Use these guys:

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/product.asp?itemid=416

And you shouldn't need a longer axle stub. I use those nuts with the stock stubs and any rear wheel and haven't had an issue yet.
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:21 AM   #10827
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Quote:
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My first question would be why?

Use these guys:

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/product.asp?itemid=416

And you shouldn't need a longer axle stub. I use those nuts with the stock stubs and any rear wheel and haven't had an issue yet.
I mainly run aka wheels and only get like 2 or 3 threads to lock on.
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:51 AM   #10828
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yea the avids are perfect for the aka wheels...those style of nuts are good,better than the nylon nuts
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:27 AM   #10829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Potoczak View Post
I mainly run aka wheels and only get like 2 or 3 threads to lock on.
Same here and using those nuts never had a problem.
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:15 PM   #10830
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does anyone know if the mip bones will fit the stock kyosho/avid bones? i want to run the aluminum bones
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