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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-10-2014, 06:00 PM   #10801
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What would you guys rather have, ti screws or the light weight chassis? i have some spare money to spend and would like some input on what people have noticed making the bigger difference. Lunsford is down the street from my local shop so i am slightly more inclined to buy a screw kit from him

thanks in advance!

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Old 09-11-2014, 01:16 AM   #10802
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Originally Posted by gixxer420 View Post
+1 just picked up a used one as well. Never drove a 1/10 buggy.
Also whats the prefered esc/motor? Do you need a low profile servo?
I think that the only must-have hopup is the alloy steering rack. The stock plastic one is really too fragile. You have several companies offering this item.
Steering arms and rear hubs can break too, again you have them in alloy, but it is not mandatory, some people never break those parts.

A nice setup option is the adjustable rear suspension holder as they allow to adjust rear track (UMW705, 706 and 707).
Some people prefers RB5 flat rear arms, another tuning option.
The wing is a bit fragile, my favourites are LMR Elektra.
A pinion diff gives great forward drive on high grip, and some adjustability.

That's about it, the RB6 is a strong car. In one year of abuse I broke a front arm, 2 rear shock shafts, and bent some ballstuds. Not much if you ask me.

Check the first post of the thread, great info here!
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Old 09-11-2014, 01:18 AM   #10803
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No need for a LP servo, they are expensive and not lighter than full-size ones.
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Old 09-11-2014, 06:18 AM   #10804
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+1 just picked up a used one as well. Never drove a 1/10 buggy.
Also whats the prefered esc/motor? Do you need a low profile servo?
Very much depends on the track but an 8.5/7.5 or even 6.5 Orion VST2pro with an Orion R10/R10.1 pro ESC will get the job done brilliantly.

As for a low profile servo I'd say don't fit one. I ran low profile for ages then realised I was adding 20+g around the servo to compensate so now just run a full size servo which brings other benefits too (more torque with no loss of speed manily).
Orion or Futaba servos are my preference.

Hope that helps.
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Old 09-11-2014, 05:30 PM   #10805
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Preciate the info.. Thx fellas
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Old 09-11-2014, 06:49 PM   #10806
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I think most of us that run low pro isnt cause its light its because of space savings as in my case
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:40 PM   #10807
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I have an RB6 sitting here that was purchased and built last (2013) spring, it sat until this summer and has been run for all of three packs on a practice day on a prepped clay track. It's stock, other than the Avid spur setup that I put on it when being built. If you had to make a short list of necessary changes/upgrades/parts to get it up to par to be run this winter... suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have an older (also dusty) RB6 that's already setup to run mod, so this one may end up as a 17.5 blinky car.

I *am* working my way through the thread a few pages at a time, but boy oh boy that's a lot of catch-up. 700+ pages of thread, and I freely admit that I'm going to try the lazy way out...
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Old 09-12-2014, 03:19 AM   #10808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasagnaCat View Post
I have an RB6 sitting here that was purchased and built last (2013) spring, it sat until this summer and has been run for all of three packs on a practice day on a prepped clay track. It's stock, other than the Avid spur setup that I put on it when being built. If you had to make a short list of necessary changes/upgrades/parts to get it up to par to be run this winter... suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have an older (also dusty) RB6 that's already setup to run mod, so this one may end up as a 17.5 blinky car.

I *am* working my way through the thread a few pages at a time, but boy oh boy that's a lot of catch-up. 700+ pages of thread, and I freely admit that I'm going to try the lazy way out...
avid rear axles,i have the aluminum drag link and the plastic arms and they are still holding up fine..maybe some aluminum hubs,the strc ones are fine,some people dont like them,the quality is good and half the price of the kyo ones..these are parts to make the car durable..also rear hinge pin holders
axles and hinge pin holders are priority..you can buy spare rear hubs for cheap and a spare plastic steering rack
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Old 09-12-2014, 04:43 AM   #10809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColbyRichards View Post
What would you guys rather have, ti screws or the light weight chassis? i have some spare money to spend and would like some input on what people have noticed making the bigger difference. Lunsford is down the street from my local shop so i am slightly more inclined to buy a screw kit from him

thanks in advance!

You'll lose more weight with the lw chassis but it will also change the way the car handles. So if you don't want to reduce chassis stiffness but lose some weight go with the Ti screws. Though there are many other, possibly cheaper, ways to save weight. But the Ti screws look good so why not.
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Old 09-12-2014, 10:52 AM   #10810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColbyRichards View Post
What would you guys rather have, ti screws or the light weight chassis? i have some spare money to spend and would like some input on what people have noticed making the bigger difference. Lunsford is down the street from my local shop so i am slightly more inclined to buy a screw kit from him

thanks in advance!

I have been waiting for the Lunsford RB6 Screw kits to get back in stock. I ended up with a Kyo one for now, however would much prefer the kit Lunsford makes since they are made like medical screws vs. production hardware. I am just up in Newberg OR. Can we order them through Cassey at NW Hobbies and they just get them from Lunsford stock?

Would Ti shock shafts brake? Just wonder why there are not any Ti shock shafts out there.
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Old 09-12-2014, 11:26 AM   #10811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helocat View Post
I have been waiting for the Lunsford RB6 Screw kits to get back in stock. I ended up with a Kyo one for now, however would much prefer the kit Lunsford makes since they are made like medical screws vs. production hardware. I am just up in Newberg OR. Can we order them through Cassey at NW Hobbies and they just get them from Lunsford stock?

Would Ti shock shafts brake? Just wonder why there are not any Ti shock shafts out there.
Yes Casey can get you some. If Kelly is there on a race day he occasionally makes a trip back to the shop, you could ask him for a set then. I'll end going with the screws, found some semi stripped ones that need replacing
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Old 09-13-2014, 08:09 PM   #10812
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I bought a used rb6 with no mid motor parts. So what exactly do I need? Part numbers to please. Thx
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Old 09-13-2014, 09:09 PM   #10813
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Originally Posted by gixxer420 View Post
I bought a used rb6 with no mid motor parts. So what exactly do I need? Part numbers to please. Thx
You will need:
-UM722 rear shock tower for midship
-um723 gear box set for midship
-um724B* rear bulkhead for midship
-um725 rear bumper
-um 726 suspension holder set / midship although I recommend the aluminum upgraded version umw 705/707
-um709 wing stay set
-um129 4.8 short ball studs (2)
-umw513 26 tooth sp idler gear 2 / I recommend using one aluminum gear umw718
-um125 5x15 aluminum shafts for midship gear box
-5x10x4mm bearings in gear box (6)
-5x7x4mm gold collar (1)
***make sure you get the updated rear bulkhead um724B with the holes for weights and rear sway bar mounts*******
Hardware needed:
-3x12mm button head screw (8)
-3x18mm f/h hex screw (3)
-3x8mm f/h hex screw (4)
-3x10mm button head screw (5)
-3x35mm button head screw (3)
-3x8mm button head (2)

Also probably want a couple 3x7 and 3x6 1mm and 2mm plastic collars
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Old 09-21-2014, 01:41 PM   #10814
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rb6 with a nice new shell... yes it is a b5m body, I am aware. I wanted to try to set up the batteries a little different than I have seen, just need to figure out what battery straps will work.
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-img_8029.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-img_8030.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-img_8031.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-img_8032.jpg  
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Old 09-21-2014, 02:25 PM   #10815
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I like how that body fits. I wish the Kyosho body covered everything that well.
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