R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Like Tree6Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-01-2014, 08:12 AM   #10771
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 77
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rchogfan View Post
Yes, coming out. I can barely touch the throttle. Then have to slowly accelerate to clear a jump to hofefully make it when others can get over fine. I'm running narrow rear hangers, 32.5 front oil/30 rear (AE oil). -2 camber... Currently handbars rear, typos front.
Could be a number of different things.... From running mine the Diff is always better slightly tighter and slipper adjustment can make a huge difference ( I run the avid set up...) I've also ditched the Yaiba racing rear mid motor bulkhead as I find this is more suited to high grip, bumpy tracks (seems to keep the rear in check by limiting flex in the rear, especially where you would have a high grip sweeper with ripples and bumps.. You can keep on the power...)

The only bling I have is the ally rear hubs for extra piece of mind and the choice of camber link positions..

I've also found running the narrow setting on the kyosho rear hinge pin holders generates a lot of initial side bite so there is also a compromise... Hence I'm now running A / A and the car instantly after running the previous D / D free'd the back end up on corner entry and gave the car more drive mid to exit.. I'm running the thinner shim under the rear block which equates to approx 1.5 anti squat I believe.. This will calm down the on power steering and give you a little more side bite.. You could try adding a shim under the forward hinge pin holder to alter your roll center as this will generate a little more roll...but remember to change the rear shim as we'll to keep anti squat the same!

Make sure your diff is nice and smooth in action.. Any little notch in the action and you have reason to doubt its state, rebuild it, as again this will make a huge difference... I wet and dry the plates etc and use tungsten carbide diff balls ( tried ceramic and you don't get the mileage out of them and they eat your plates!)

On the tracks here in the UK,shock wise I run 4 x 1.3 all round, orange front and red rear 37.5 and 25.. ( don't forget we mainly run on astro turf using spiked tyres)

I've always stuck with kit arms running 2 holes at the back using the inside hole (I've now drilled the new inside hole to try next time out..) I have tried the flat rear wishbones UM566/LA272 with the extra inside hole and it defo keeps the car flatter in the corner and is good.. But I just prefer the feel of the kit arms for overall performance.. Lots of mid to exit steering... I also tried the light weight chassis and in my mind this gave the car a lot more overall grip and felt nice balanced when driving front to rear.. Bit to lively for my older thumbs mind Since going back to kit chassis it's much more to my thumbs

Electrics... I run shorty... With the esc next to the motor and the battery next to the esc, low profile servo, rx on one side and R10 power cap and switch the other.. I have my pt on the servo..

Apologies for the long post....

If I can be of any more help drop me a pm
njc11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2014, 10:10 AM   #10772
Tech Elite
 
K_King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,172
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to K_King
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rchogfan View Post
Yes, coming out. I can barely touch the throttle. Then have to slowly accelerate to clear a jump to hofefully make it when others can get over fine. I'm running narrow rear hangers, 32.5 front oil/30 rear (AE oil). -2 camber... Currently handbars rear, typos front.
Im not a fan of handlebar rears. They dont provide the best grip for me. I like broken in Deja Vus the best with a pinstripe or handlebar front.

Whats the rest of your setup?
__________________
TLR - Spektrum - Pro-Line - Team Orion - Stickit1 - Schelle
K_King is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2014, 08:22 PM   #10773
Tech Elite
 
hairymuffin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: moreno valley, ca
Posts: 2,570
Trader Rating: 93 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rchogfan View Post
Yes, coming out. I can barely touch the throttle. Then have to slowly accelerate to clear a jump to hofefully make it when others can get over fine. I'm running narrow rear hangers, 32.5 front oil/30 rear (AE oil). -2 camber... Currently handbars rear, typos front.
i use cody kings setup from the reedy race,but i use 1.6 pistons...one thing to try 1st before changing your setup, is put the hubs allthe way forward,also taking the 2 screws out the bottom of the motor mount(gives flex)..tire sauce wd40,may sound weird but maybe using super soft compound,just because its clay indoor does not mean a car has instant tracktion.also new tires can suck.kinda hard to pinpoint your problem,but start here...,
sauce
hubs forward
screws out the bottom..
1* camber
ride height..23-24 standard
rear arm hole mod
these tips require no $
hairymuffin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 08:26 AM   #10774
Tech Adept
 
Enigma R/C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 113
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Casey on the post.

As he was stating, when I started doing the new drilled hole my track was FAR from high bite, very dusty and loose....standing the rear shocks more straight up and down generates more forward bit.

To further back up this claim, about 2 weeks ago I had a local buddy wanna try my drilled hole setup and asked how far to drill the hole from the sway bar mount(as that is how we have been doing our measurements) and I messed up and told him 14.8 instead of the correct distant of 17.8, so needless to say his shocks were VERY straight up and down, and he went out and drove it and came back to say dude, I don't like it, my car has SOOOOO much rear bite that I can even go into the sweeper and its so locked exiting all the 180 turns that I just push to the way(he was running stock) so I drove his car and sure enough it was pretty bad, anyways a day later he looked at my setup online to see that it was actually 17.8 not 14.8 and then he went to the correct length.

So all in all, it goes to show that the more you stand them straight up and down the more rear grip you will generate.

It allows the pivot points from the inner and outer hing pins to work properly with the angle of the shock, and transfer weight in the proper fashion that it should be.

So I would at least give the new hole a try and see what you think before going all the way back to rear motor, and I would for sure ditch the saddle packs and extra weight on the car....I have tried doing exactly what you are doing to generate more traction on my car and it just made the car worse and worse.

Hope this helps and makes sense. Good luck buddy!
__________________
Looking to buy/sell USED rc gear? www.rcshed.com
Enigma R/C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 09:38 AM   #10775
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,505
Trader Rating: 91 (100%+)
Default

Zack what are you running for the hinge pin inserts? I didn't see that on the setup sheet.
__________________
Just leave him alone, he knows what he's doing!
Eric Tomczyk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 11:15 PM   #10776
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Houston TX (formally Sou CA)
Posts: 1,159
Trader Rating: 82 (100%+)
Default

Do you have a RB6 chassis for sale/trade?

I'm looking for a RB6 chassis with the new battery stop hole (found in newer) RB6 kits or maybe someone who don't like their LW chassis. PM me pls.
__________________
"Tinkering with Toy Cars that go around in circles"
OCRC | Club R/C | Mike's Gulf Coast | Kyosho RB6 ZX6 MP9E
Kuya_Kimo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 11:56 PM   #10777
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 948
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
Do you have a RB6 chassis for sale/trade?

I'm looking for a RB6 chassis with the new battery stop hole (found in newer) RB6 kits or maybe someone who don't like their LW chassis. PM me pls.
I made a front battery stop that uses the wide holes in the front of the chassis.....let me know if you want one.

__________________
Jason Snyder

Check out my "YouTube" channel
www.youtube.com/shortcourseworld
Jason Snyder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2014, 08:23 PM   #10778
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Houston TX (formally Sou CA)
Posts: 1,159
Trader Rating: 82 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Snyder View Post
I made a front battery stop that uses the wide holes in the front of the chassis.....let me know if you want one.

PM'd. What's the price?
__________________
"Tinkering with Toy Cars that go around in circles"
OCRC | Club R/C | Mike's Gulf Coast | Kyosho RB6 ZX6 MP9E
Kuya_Kimo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2014, 10:49 PM   #10779
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 36
Default

I can't for the life of me figure out how to adjust the diff without taking off the wheels. I've watched the video of Tebo breaking in and adjusting his and I still cannot figure it out.

Where should I stick the wrench? Is it some kind of specialty wrench? Is he spinning the spur or the tire to tighten?

Thanks!
Naxn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2014, 12:15 AM   #10780
Tech Adept
 
orangutanracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 140
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Naxn View Post
I can't for the life of me figure out how to adjust the diff without taking off the wheels. I've watched the video of Tebo breaking in and adjusting his and I still cannot figure it out.

Where should I stick the wrench? Is it some kind of specialty wrench? Is he spinning the spur or the tire to tighten?

Thanks!
The diff outdrive has a hole in it that you can fit a 2mm hex wrench into.
Line the slot in the diff screw up with the hole drop in the 2mm hex wrench and then turn the wheel on the spur side to adjust the tightness to your liking.
orangutanracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2014, 01:00 AM   #10781
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 36
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by orangutanracer View Post
The diff outdrive has a hole in it that you can fit a 2mm hex wrench into.
Line the slot in the diff screw up with the hole drop in the 2mm hex wrench and then turn the wheel on the spur side to adjust the tightness to your liking.
So, the screw side of the diff should be on the opposite side of the motor plate?

The hole you're talking about- are they the holes that the manual says to put a white plastic ring to cover them up? (Page:20, Figure:20, Part: 33)

Does everyone just leave that white ring off all the time?

Thanks again.
Naxn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2014, 01:57 AM   #10782
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 499
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Naxn View Post
So, the screw side of the diff should be on the opposite side of the motor plate?

The hole you're talking about- are they the holes that the manual says to put a white plastic ring to cover them up? (Page:20, Figure:20, Part: 33)

Does everyone just leave that white ring off all the time?

Thanks again.
1. Yes, the head of the bolt opposite the motor plate. This makes it easier to adjust the diff. No real performance difference as you turn the diff going mid motor to rear.

2. Yes

3. And yes

I use a 1.5 mm Allen key like what you get in the kit rather then a driver.
Tom87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2014, 05:21 AM   #10783
Tech Regular
 
kyle3333's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

It's been a while since I've built a new kit. Do the current kits ship with aluminum steering components? Basically the steering rack and crank arms.


Thanks
__________________
JConcepts UpGrade RC
kyle3333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2014, 08:24 AM   #10784
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,195
Trader Rating: 309 (100%+)
Default

Any pics of Zack buggy?
__________________
Jermaine Mitchell
I laugh at serious racers acting like B****
Free Agent racing team. No sponsors needed.
Mercenary Racer
jmoneym is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2014, 09:36 AM   #10785
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 36
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle3333 View Post
It's been a while since I've built a new kit. Do the current kits ship with aluminum steering components? Basically the steering rack and crank arms.


Thanks
The kit comes with plastic.
Naxn is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ryde it like you stole it: the Ryde Drivers thread. old_skoolie Australian Racing 22936 08-14-2017 04:25 AM
Island Raceway & Hobby (IRH), Lindenhurst, NY - Indoor Off-Road Track in Long Island Asharus Northeast Racing Forum 15013 06-22-2017 04:17 PM
Kyosho Ultima RB5 Thread Drift_Buggy Electric Off-Road 14641 11-10-2015 08:28 AM
Kyosho Ultima SC aeRayls Electric Off-Road 2599 04-27-2014 04:30 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:30 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net