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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-27-2014, 08:50 AM   #10756
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BTW,

Thanks ARNO for posting that setup!
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:38 AM   #10757
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So after reading/hearing about the new shock mount location I decided to give it a go,

I left my setup pretty much the same as I had it with the only change being the new location for the rear shocks. I'm a believer for sure. Night and day difference. Let a couple other guys wheel it and they both liked it. I had a 17.5 in there and they both ran faster than I did with my own car and one had never run a 17.5 before. I liked it so much that I picked up a couple pairs of new rear arms to drill out just in case I snap one. You guys won't be disappointed with the change. I can't explain why it does what it does, but it sure made the car a lot easier to push harder with out getting into trouble.


Track:
Indoor clay. Mostly smooth with a couple rougher sections. Med. to Med. high traction depending on how wet or dry the surface is.

Tires used:
MC Electrons F/R, MC Electron R/Transistor F, AKA C Typos F/R

Base setup:
Mostly Tebo's MM setup for out door. 1.3/4hole tapered front, 1.6/2hole tapered rear. 35 front oil, 30 rear oil (I think 27.5 in the rear would have been even better). Pink F/Gold R springs. Elec.'s: servo (half sized), transponder flat on the chassis in the gap, batt, ESC, Rx and ESC cap on the left and right sides at the rear of the side guards. 0 camber/0 toe front/2.5 rear toe (2 on the arms, .5 at the hubs, 2mm shim on the rear outer camber link, 0 inside. 22mm ride height F/R (meant to set it at 23mm, but didn't pay attention). Rear hubs all the way forward on the rear arm.

It's the best I've had the car feel yet, and I didn't follow the recommended setups for the new location to a "T", but do plan on doing so, minus the elec. layout change. So far it's pretty good, even when the track was a bit drier than normal.

Thanks to the guys that posted up about the new shock location. Was well worth the few minutes it took to make the change
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:12 AM   #10758
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which chassis is being used with the new hole?
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Old 08-28-2014, 07:38 AM   #10759
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Quote:
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which chassis is being used with the new hole?
Which ever one you prefer. I'm running the original one and the new arm hole location with really good success.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:43 AM   #10760
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I run the standard updated chassis. It's the same stiffness as the stock chassis, but it has the extra mounting holes the lightweight chassis has.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:54 AM   #10761
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Anyone have a good rear motor 17.5 setup they want to share for indoor clay??
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:20 AM   #10762
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Try the one posted above...
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:55 AM   #10763
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Hey guys, glad the buzz about the new shock position is a positive one....for anyone still running Tebos electronic package, if it works for you that is great, however, when I have ran it(along with others) I feel that the car pushes(under steers) a lot more in corners....and I know that sounds backwards considering the battery is much farther forward than my setup shows....however it feels like the front end is a sled going into corners and the weight never transfers properly. When the battery is pushed further back not only do I feel like I generate more rear traction, the car has a boat load more steering due to the weight being transferred to the front when letting off the gas and/or braking. Obviously everyone has their own driving styles and what feels good to them...but if you are questioning your steering and grip...id say before even doing the new suspension changes try the battery position.

P.S. I am also running the same chassis as Kevin mentioned above; standard chassis update, with holes that match that of the LW chassis.

Hope all these adjustments are helping you guys gain more confidence in your cars!
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:22 PM   #10764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enigma R/C View Post
Hey guys, glad the buzz about the new shock position is a positive one....for anyone still running Tebos electronic package, if it works for you that is great, however, when I have ran it(along with others) I feel that the car pushes(under steers) a lot more in corners....and I know that sounds backwards considering the battery is much farther forward than my setup shows....however it feels like the front end is a sled going into corners and the weight never transfers properly. When the battery is pushed further back not only do I feel like I generate more rear traction, the car has a boat load more steering due to the weight being transferred to the front when letting off the gas and/or braking. Obviously everyone has their own driving styles and what feels good to them...but if you are questioning your steering and grip...id say before even doing the new suspension changes try the battery position.

P.S. I am also running the same chassis as Kevin mentioned above; standard chassis update, with holes that match that of the LW chassis.

Hope all these adjustments are helping you guys gain more confidence in your cars!

Zack,
I hear what your saying. It's a bit funny as I had all of my elec. stuff up front when I first set the car up (minus the batt being as far back as it gets run now) and it did feel like the steering was more. I only went to the rear esc position as my Orion (with fan) has a little more weight to it and I wanted to put it further back. My car can push for sure, but with the current setup (even prior to the new shock location) the amount of front end push can depend on which front tires being run at the time. Which I like. I do think that running 2.5 rear toe helps keep the rear end from pushing through the front end and possibly making the front end push that may already be there even worse. At least that is my thinking. Still you and Kevin have found a way to make the car even better than it was and that is a good thing.
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:33 PM   #10765
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I've searched through probably 30-40 pages and haven't found anyone specifically stating how to gain forward traction. I'm running mid motor and a low traction indoor track. I've added an ounce of weight to the back and still really loose and no forward traction. I've tried numerous tires of several compounds so I do not think that's the issue. I'm running saddles side by side pushed all the way to the back strapped in. Any help is very very greatly appreciated. (Not wanting to go to rear motor). Thank you.
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:47 PM   #10766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchogfan View Post
I've searched through probably 30-40 pages and haven't found anyone specifically stating how to gain forward traction. I'm running mid motor and a low traction indoor track. I've added an ounce of weight to the back and still really loose and no forward traction. I've tried numerous tires of several compounds so I do not think that's the issue. I'm running saddles side by side pushed all the way to the back strapped in. Any help is very very greatly appreciated. (Not wanting to go to rear motor). Thank you.
Just fyi. I started out yesterday with mid motor on low traction track and it was terrible. I took the time and changed it rear motor and it was a blast. However I left the shorty batt in front position an I felt it jumped almost the same as mid. I didn't feel I should move the batt so I kept it that way.
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:55 PM   #10767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchogfan View Post
I've searched through probably 30-40 pages and haven't found anyone specifically stating how to gain forward traction. I'm running mid motor and a low traction indoor track. I've added an ounce of weight to the back and still really loose and no forward traction. I've tried numerous tires of several compounds so I do not think that's the issue. I'm running saddles side by side pushed all the way to the back strapped in. Any help is very very greatly appreciated. (Not wanting to go to rear motor). Thank you.
Ditch the weight. Go to a shorty. Where are you needing traction? Coming out of a turn? What's your setup and tires?
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:08 AM   #10768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikaR View Post
Just fyi. I started out yesterday with mid motor on low traction track and it was terrible. I took the time and changed it rear motor and it was a blast. However I left the shorty batt in front position an I felt it jumped almost the same as mid. I didn't feel I should move the batt so I kept it that way.
That's kind of what I don't wanna do but may have to. When I got it I bought all the exotek mm stuff. So I'll loose some bling as well.
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:10 AM   #10769
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Ditch the weight. Go to a shorty. Where are you needing traction? Coming out of a turn? What's your setup and tires?

Yes, coming out. I can barely touch the throttle. Then have to slowly accelerate to clear a jump to hofefully make it when others can get over fine. I'm running narrow rear hangers, 32.5 front oil/30 rear (AE oil). -2 camber... Currently handbars rear, typos front.
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:46 AM   #10770
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Try Zacks set up. The track he runs on isn't always med/ high traction. Our normal club nights are medium traction at best. This set up experiment was to try and get on par with the traction the B5m had when our track was less than ideal for the Kyosho. I didn't have Zacks entire set up on my car and he was making a triple triple section with way more ease than I was, his forward bite was very good. And you'll be able to keep your bling.
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