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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-25-2014, 11:31 PM   #10741
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Zack, what is your electronics and battery position?
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:02 AM   #10742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esoteradactyl View Post
Zack, what is your electronics and battery position?

Since Zack doesn't post as often as most of us Ill tell you his layout to get you started and then he can give you the fine points if you have any questions. Pretty much all of us run the same electronics set up in the RB6 at the track Zack runs at:
Full size servo
receiver/ ESC(Receiver on the driver side, ESC on the passanger side with motor wires running down the side channel.)
Battery all the way back against the motor.
You will find that the battery stop doesn't work properly due to the holes being wider in the spot that you will need to mount it. Take your battery holder cut it in half then mount it. When you mount your esc and receiver place them tight up agains the battery stop to keep it from flexing, then you need two small pieces of foam on the sides of the battery to keep it centered. For the back of the battery I put a small piece of foam on my battery to keep a little padding between the two. Zack has the RT6 battery stop on his chassis and it looks more factory that way.
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:25 AM   #10743
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Thanks Casey! Sorry I am not on here very much you guys....as for the electronics layout, its pretty much what Casey said, however I run a shorty servo...but I have more than enough room for a full sized one, I just like the shorty one because it gives me more room for wires, transponder, power caps from speedo. Anyways, at the end of the video I posted their is a picture of my car with the body off and it shows my electronics layout, it is only in the screen for about 1-2 seconds so you might have to pause it to get a better look.
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Old 08-26-2014, 02:40 PM   #10744
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^^

ill have to try that 3rd hole option.

ANYWAYS. I am sure this has been covered but I can't find what I am looking for in my search. I have snapped 4 titanium balls studs in the rear hubs in a short amount of time. They get stuck in there and I can't keep buying new aluminum hubs.

Someone told me don't Loctite so I stopped doing that and it has happened two more times after that.

Thanks in advance
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Old 08-26-2014, 02:43 PM   #10745
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Solution? Don't use ti ballstuds. They always snapped one me. I use the steel ones and haven't snapped on in 5 years or so.
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Old 08-26-2014, 05:15 PM   #10746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s.amadorJR View Post
^^

ill have to try that 3rd hole option.

ANYWAYS. I am sure this has been covered but I can't find what I am looking for in my search. I have snapped 4 titanium balls studs in the rear hubs in a short amount of time. They get stuck in there and I can't keep buying new aluminum hubs.

Someone told me don't Loctite so I stopped doing that and it has happened two more times after that.

Thanks in advance

Use the kyosho steel ones
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Old 08-26-2014, 05:17 PM   #10747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enigma R/C View Post
Im not sure how your car feels without them drilled, but mine always felt stiff/bindy in the rear end, which on the track lead to my car never being able to carry corner speed without getting loose and my car always seemed to pull one way on power(never had just wheelie type grip.) This hole makes the car have a lot more roll, which you would think would make the car loose in corners, however it actually makes the car feel more like a slot car, or a car driving on a rail in sweepers....also the forward bite doesn't even come close to comparing the old shock positions...standing them up like I have allows the car to be a lot softer and work with its own pivot points a lot better...also I have had people question the way the car will transfer weight with this new setup, and all I can say is drive it and be blown away, yes the weight transfer is a lot great in all directions, but its funny how now the car actually has more steering than before, yet still has more side to side traction even though the car is being thrown into the corner faster.

Side note that if you are to do this setup PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not half A$$ the setup by not making sure your droop and ride height is also the same as my setup sheet for a base start, as I have noticed those 2 things are much more crucial with this setup than the previous setup.

Thanks,
Zack Rogers
Gents,

Find in attachment Zack setup.

Arno
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-rb6_zackroger_ocrc20140821.jpg  
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Old 08-26-2014, 05:38 PM   #10748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
Gents,

Find in attachment Zack setup.

Arno
amzing how similar that setup is to mine on outdoor clay track/ Spoky
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Old 08-26-2014, 06:57 PM   #10749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
Since Zack doesn't post as often as most of us Ill tell you his layout to get you started and then he can give you the fine points if you have any questions. Pretty much all of us run the same electronics set up in the RB6 at the track Zack runs at:
Full size servo
receiver/ ESC(Receiver on the driver side, ESC on the passanger side with motor wires running down the side channel.)
Battery all the way back against the motor.
You will find that the battery stop doesn't work properly due to the holes being wider in the spot that you will need to mount it. Take your battery holder cut it in half then mount it. When you mount your esc and receiver place them tight up agains the battery stop to keep it from flexing, then you need two small pieces of foam on the sides of the battery to keep it centered. For the back of the battery I put a small piece of foam on my battery to keep a little padding between the two. Zack has the RT6 battery stop on his chassis and it looks more factory that way.

Thanks for this. A picture speaks a thousand words though! Cheers,
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Old 08-26-2014, 06:59 PM   #10750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
Use the kyosho steel ones
Interestingly the only time I snapped a ballstud was with the stock Kyoshos. The Lunsfords are holding up <touchwood>. Cheers,
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Old 08-26-2014, 06:59 PM   #10751
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Do B5 wheels fit on the rb6??
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:26 PM   #10752
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Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
Thanks for this. A picture speaks a thousand words though! Cheers,
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

There you go.
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:41 PM   #10753
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Here's some practice laps I ran with mine tonight. Track was a little dusty, but you can probably see how much the rear end is digging into the track. We run on medium bite but with clay tires. It get's pretty dusty, and this layout has a lot of speed turns that require low speed turning as well as high speed. It's a pretty good test for forward bite.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYix-348-oM

Zachypoo's setup and mine are pretty similar. He has his shocks a little more stood up in the rear but I needed more sidebite for my current layout and a bit more pack as well. It's amazing how the car is now, it's not even funny really. So many people are asking what I changed on the car and it's awesome. I had a local driver try it today and he was pretty amazed how it drove. I was able to drive a well kept B5M today and I must say those things have rear grip, but this one would not corner if it's life depended on it. He had some off power steering issues, and I was just crusing by him each time we practiced. The car is super easy to drive and maintain speed, or you can get on the wheel and drive it a lot harder without fear of it spinning out.

Many of you know that I have been trying so many things the last year or so. Different battery configs, different setups, different chassis, basically anything and everything. This is by FAR the best my car has ever felt as an overall package. I can drive it easy and carve corners, or drive it to the limit. When I overdrive the car will push just enough to let me know I need to back it down a bit, yet its still fast.

I encourage everyone to at least TRY this out. It costs you nothing, but as Zach mentioned, there is no easy way out on doing it. I used calipers and measured 17.8mm from the center of the sway bar hole to the center of the hole I was going to drill. This also comes out to around 2mm from the inside hole on the 2 side part of the arm. On the one hole side you will need to use the 17.8mm method if you are going to use the same hole I am using. It is extremely important that you get the distances correct for both droop and angle. I suggest grabbing some pairs of arms and drilling them to the best of your ability, then matching those with the same, or closest numbers to each other, so your angles are even side to side. If you get one thats 18mm thats ok, the fact that you have one closer in is the bigger deal, just get them as perfect as you can!

Remember the times we took out steering on this car? Now you can dial it back in
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Last edited by K_King; 08-26-2014 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:57 PM   #10754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

There you go.
Thanks, [thumbs up]
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:47 AM   #10755
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Awesome driving Kevin! Thing is looking really good....and that track looks really fun, and BIG!!! Haha, and like you said about dialing in back the steering we took out, I agree...I went back to the other hole on my Schelle steering rack because now I feel like my car can take it!
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