Zylux

A couple of weeks ago I mentioned I was going to try and make some 7075 T6 Aluminium hinge-pins for my RB6. Well, I did make some for the front hubs and spindles and ran them all day today. Hit a few things and actually ran into someones foot at full speed (essentially a wall) with absolutely no bending of the hinges.

Looks like I will continue running these into the future. That's about 3 grams of unsprung mass saved! Also made some titanium inner hinges as these will have to handle more stress. Happy days.

CaseyD

iTrader: (2)

At what point do you/ would you lose the benefit of MM? When I originally went MM I had the battery all the way back with ESC/ RX infront. At the Surf City I went with Tebos set up + a couple of changes. The set up had the electronics servo/batt/esc. The car felt way better to me than batt all the way back. Granted it was OCRC with ridiculous grip. What is the weight bias of a RM car? Would a person still see a benefit if for example his MM car 35 F 65 R compared to a RM car that was 35 F 65 R. All else being the same, track conditions, tires, motor etc..

K_King

iTrader: (47)

Well the main difference is that you will never have the major weight at the very rear most part of the car swinging around. So a MM would never feel like that, it should always corner better and slide out less when getting loose.

Zylux

I hear what you are saying. But as also stated by K_King, my theory is that if I can get the weight bias closer to a Rear Motor car but with the mass much more centralized it should be more responsive and shouldn't have the overshoot / pendulum effect that a rear motor car would have (lower moment of inertia) but still have the forward traction of a rear motor car.

I run on a medium grip dirt/clay off road track where rear traction is sometimes hard to come by.

My Mid Motor RB6 was about 38.5-39% front when I first built it (with shorty as far back in standard battery holder locations). It is now 35-36% . This has improved the forward traction and I haven't lost too much steering. I have lost a little mid-corner rear traction however (more over-steer).

For comparison, a standard rear motor B5 has a weight split of about 33.7-34.1 front (according to Ray Munday on the "Ask Ray Munday" thread on this forum and the B5M about 36.5-37% (out of the box) and down to 34.2% front after all of Rays modifications.

So I guess if you run on a low-mid grip track I think that more rear weight bias is a good thing as you still have the added bonus of a lower moment of inertia. Car still jumps better, is easier to catch when it loses traction and responds quicker to changes of direction.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

I tried tuning with weight in my cougar cars it always ended up being like a rear motor in fact for low bite clay. Since then, tuning with flex and springs/shocks yields better results for me. The LW chassis almost has same grip in MM as the stock in RM actually.

I just personally prefer putting weight as ahead as possible for it to jump flat while still having a lot of give in the rear spring oil combo. Still the rb6 does not handle as well in air as the yok so trying to tune that.

glenng

iTrader: (1)

is a total sleeper upgrade. i was using the lightweight milled kyosho upgradea, but at 2mm thick, i felt like it flexed a lot. plus when my motor was hot, the plate was barely warm. i noticed the jconcepts was 3mm, so i got it on my last amain order. does not flex everytime i tighten pinion or motor so winning. but why its totally rad is because that honeycomb design does a kick ass job at dissipating heat. my temps have been 10 degrees cooler and i can feel the motor plate is almost hot (compard to warm), doing a nice job with the heat. the only thing i didnt do was weigh the piece to compare to the kyosho one. but i doesnt matter. 20 bucks well spent!

QIMB528

iTrader: (3)

Just for Bling

Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

Who,what,where, and how much???

QIMB528

iTrader: (3)

Made it myself, bonded with Hysol 9340.

It wasn't popular a few months back. But if there are enough demand, I will make more.

kineteks

Well I had a question or two but never thought it was a bad idea. It looks great, very nicely done. Are the side gussets keyed as well as bonded?

helocat

Just ordered the kit today. Setting up for stock. I am a totally new to racing and just built a SC6. Local track seems to only run buggies so good excuse to build an RB6.

Should I just build it to the instructions or any sugested set ups to follow. I will be using it mainly indoors on a hi bite clay track.

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

since your from Bako ask Zach Rogers his a team driver from Kyosho.

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

Where should I send my payment I want one of this badboy..

No Idea!!

I always build stock then go from there.

eper

iTrader: (14)

Hey guys I haven't been on here in like a year. I lost my job and had to sell my entire line of k cars. Was really sad. But since I scored a new job and yesterday found my scr and rb6 still complete and sitting on the shelf in the very store that bought them. So I bought them back and couldn't be happier. Thing is I got rid ofall my spares and want to go mm does anyone have those parts laying around and not in use. I would like to buy them. Pm me if anyone has them. Thanks.