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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-15-2014, 03:15 AM   #10711
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A couple of weeks ago I mentioned I was going to try and make some 7075 T6 Aluminium hinge-pins for my RB6. Well, I did make some for the front hubs and spindles and ran them all day today. Hit a few things and actually ran into someones foot at full speed (essentially a wall) with absolutely no bending of the hinges.

Looks like I will continue running these into the future. That's about 3 grams of unsprung mass saved! Also made some titanium inner hinges as these will have to handle more stress. Happy days.
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:11 AM   #10712
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Yep. Battery back will give you more rear weight. Also, if you want more rear weight, make sure you remove the rear battery holder, add some stops in front of the motor and slide the battery in under the waterfall brace. If you are trying to increase rear weight bias, you can also move the front and rear hubs all the way forward and remove as much weight as you can from the front of the car (shorty servo, alu axles, Ti Turnbuckles, ball-studs, hinge pins etc).

I managed to get my RB6 MM weight bias to 35.6% front / 64.4% rear whilst still hitting minimum weight.
At what point do you/ would you lose the benefit of MM? When I originally went MM I had the battery all the way back with ESC/ RX infront. At the Surf City I went with Tebos set up + a couple of changes. The set up had the electronics servo/batt/esc. The car felt way better to me than batt all the way back. Granted it was OCRC with ridiculous grip. What is the weight bias of a RM car? Would a person still see a benefit if for example his MM car 35 F 65 R compared to a RM car that was 35 F 65 R. All else being the same, track conditions, tires, motor etc..
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:14 AM   #10713
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Well the main difference is that you will never have the major weight at the very rear most part of the car swinging around. So a MM would never feel like that, it should always corner better and slide out less when getting loose.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:17 PM   #10714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
At what point do you/ would you lose the benefit of MM? When I originally went MM I had the battery all the way back with ESC/ RX infront. At the Surf City I went with Tebos set up + a couple of changes. The set up had the electronics servo/batt/esc. The car felt way better to me than batt all the way back. Granted it was OCRC with ridiculous grip. What is the weight bias of a RM car? Would a person still see a benefit if for example his MM car 35 F 65 R compared to a RM car that was 35 F 65 R. All else being the same, track conditions, tires, motor etc..
I hear what you are saying. But as also stated by K_King, my theory is that if I can get the weight bias closer to a Rear Motor car but with the mass much more centralized it should be more responsive and shouldn't have the overshoot / pendulum effect that a rear motor car would have (lower moment of inertia) but still have the forward traction of a rear motor car.

I run on a medium grip dirt/clay off road track where rear traction is sometimes hard to come by.

My Mid Motor RB6 was about 38.5-39% front when I first built it (with shorty as far back in standard battery holder locations). It is now 35-36% . This has improved the forward traction and I haven't lost too much steering. I have lost a little mid-corner rear traction however (more over-steer).

For comparison, a standard rear motor B5 has a weight split of about 33.7-34.1 front (according to Ray Munday on the "Ask Ray Munday" thread on this forum and the B5M about 36.5-37% (out of the box) and down to 34.2% front after all of Rays modifications.

So I guess if you run on a low-mid grip track I think that more rear weight bias is a good thing as you still have the added bonus of a lower moment of inertia. Car still jumps better, is easier to catch when it loses traction and responds quicker to changes of direction.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:36 PM   #10715
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I tried tuning with weight in my cougar cars it always ended up being like a rear motor in fact for low bite clay. Since then, tuning with flex and springs/shocks yields better results for me. The LW chassis almost has same grip in MM as the stock in RM actually.

I just personally prefer putting weight as ahead as possible for it to jump flat while still having a lot of give in the rear spring oil combo. Still the rb6 does not handle as well in air as the yok so trying to tune that.
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:16 PM   #10716
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Default J concepts honeycomb motor mount

is a total sleeper upgrade. i was using the lightweight milled kyosho upgradea, but at 2mm thick, i felt like it flexed a lot. plus when my motor was hot, the plate was barely warm. i noticed the jconcepts was 3mm, so i got it on my last amain order. does not flex everytime i tighten pinion or motor so winning. but why its totally rad is because that honeycomb design does a kick ass job at dissipating heat. my temps have been 10 degrees cooler and i can feel the motor plate is almost hot (compard to warm), doing a nice job with the heat. the only thing i didnt do was weigh the piece to compare to the kyosho one. but i doesnt matter. 20 bucks well spent!
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Old 08-20-2014, 03:36 PM   #10717
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Just for Bling



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Old 08-20-2014, 05:17 PM   #10718
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Originally Posted by QIMB528 View Post
Just for Bling



Who,what,where, and how much???
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Old 08-21-2014, 11:24 PM   #10719
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Who,what,where, and how much???
Made it myself, bonded with Hysol 9340.

It wasn't popular a few months back. But if there are enough demand, I will make more.
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:55 AM   #10720
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Well I had a question or two but never thought it was a bad idea. It looks great, very nicely done. Are the side gussets keyed as well as bonded?
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:43 PM   #10721
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Just ordered the kit today. Setting up for stock. I am a totally new to racing and just built a SC6. Local track seems to only run buggies so good excuse to build an RB6.

Should I just build it to the instructions or any sugested set ups to follow. I will be using it mainly indoors on a hi bite clay track.
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:23 PM   #10722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
At what point do you/ would you lose the benefit of MM? When I originally went MM I had the battery all the way back with ESC/ RX infront. At the Surf City I went with Tebos set up + a couple of changes. The set up had the electronics servo/batt/esc. The car felt way better to me than batt all the way back. Granted it was OCRC with ridiculous grip. What is the weight bias of a RM car? Would a person still see a benefit if for example his MM car 35 F 65 R compared to a RM car that was 35 F 65 R. All else being the same, track conditions, tires, motor etc..
since your from Bako ask Zach Rogers his a team driver from Kyosho.
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:24 PM   #10723
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Just for Bling



Where should I send my payment I want one of this badboy..
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Old 08-24-2014, 12:54 AM   #10724
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Originally Posted by helocat View Post
Just ordered the kit today. Setting up for stock. I am a totally new to racing and just built a SC6. Local track seems to only run buggies so good excuse to build an RB6.

Should I just build it to the instructions or any sugested set ups to follow. I will be using it mainly indoors on a hi bite clay track.
I always build stock then go from there.
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Old 08-24-2014, 04:55 AM   #10725
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Hey guys I haven't been on here in like a year. I lost my job and had to sell my entire line of k cars. Was really sad. But since I scored a new job and yesterday found my scr and rb6 still complete and sitting on the shelf in the very store that bought them. So I bought them back and couldn't be happier. Thing is I got rid ofall my spares and want to go mm does anyone have those parts laying around and not in use. I would like to buy them. Pm me if anyone has them. Thanks.
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