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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-04-2014, 01:02 PM   #10666
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Do you leave substantial pack on the shocks or close to zero?
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Old 08-04-2014, 01:08 PM   #10667
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You actually have to go softer. I'm going to try 25/white.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:45 PM   #10668
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Check it out.
is it for weight or flex?
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Old 08-05-2014, 04:53 AM   #10669
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Well, after throwing a bunch of titanium at my RB6 MM I realised that I needed to add 65 grams back in to meet ROAR minimum weight .

I figured I'd add the weight as low and rearward as possible (I run on a medium grip outdoor dirt/clay track)

I added a 20 gram brass weight to the rear bumper and a 45 gram copper sheet under the battery and motor. This also had the effect of marginally increasing the rear weight distribution; now at 35.8% front, 64.2% rear with an all-up weight of 1501 grams.

Drove it briefly after work tonight and preferred it without the extra weight but need more time to play with it.

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Old 08-05-2014, 07:34 AM   #10670
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Quote:
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is it for weight or flex?
Neither. It's to get the shock angle closer to 90 degrees upon compression.
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:00 AM   #10671
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Default anyone selling rb6?

Please let me know. text me at 518-495-0703. thanks.
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:13 AM   #10672
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Originally Posted by Zylux View Post
Well, after throwing a bunch of titanium at my RB6 MM I realised that I needed to add 65 grams back in to meet ROAR minimum weight .

I figured I'd add the weight as low and rearward as possible (I run on a medium grip outdoor dirt/clay track)

I added a 20 gram brass weight to the rear bumper and a 45 gram copper sheet under the battery and motor. This also had the effect of marginally increasing the rear weight distribution; now at 35.8% front, 64.2% rear with an all-up weight of 1501 grams.

Drove it briefly after work tonight and preferred it without the extra weight but need more time to play with it.

I was at the same point as you, was around 130 grams under weight with the 150gram shorty heheh, so I used a full weight pack for stock for more consistency, theres a step up which I can only clear the first few laps on my big 1/8 sized track. Where did you get the copper sheet? Been looking for something like that.
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:51 PM   #10673
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I was at the same point as you, was around 130 grams under weight with the 150gram shorty heheh, so I used a full weight pack for stock for more consistency, theres a step up which I can only clear the first few laps on my big 1/8 sized track. Where did you get the copper sheet? Been looking for something like that.
Yeah, with a 150g shorty I would be under 1370 grams lol!

I bought the copper sheets years ago for a totally unrelated project and don't recall exactly where I got it from, but it was an Australian website and they also sold small quantities of precious metals for jewelry etc. I'll let you know if I remember.

The only reason I wouldn't run a full size pack is because I want the CoG as far back as possible; I'd rather add weight low and rearward.
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Old 08-05-2014, 02:07 PM   #10674
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Yeah, with a 150g shorty I would be under 1370 grams lol!

I bought the copper sheets years ago for a totally unrelated project and don't recall exactly where I got it from, but it was an Australian website and they also sold small quantities of precious metals for jewelry etc. I'll let you know if I remember.

The only reason I wouldn't run a full size pack is because I want the CoG as far back as possible; I'd rather add weight low and rearward.
Oh did not see the country sorry. Yeah I buy metal stock from online metals.com here in the usa I will try to find those types of sheets. We got sugar tracks so car works best with weight as ahead as possible (jumps flat) with the stiffest (had lw chassis but moved back to stocker) settings. So with saddles it works those shocks better .
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Old 08-05-2014, 03:40 PM   #10675
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Oh did not see the country sorry. Yeah I buy metal stock from online metals.com here in the usa I will try to find those types of sheets. We got sugar tracks so car works best with weight as ahead as possible (jumps flat) with the stiffest (had lw chassis but moved back to stocker) settings. So with saddles it works those shocks better .
Copper sheets these days are $$$. Just prepare $ if there is any thickness for weight to them.
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Old 08-05-2014, 03:43 PM   #10676
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Copper sheets these days are $$$. Just prepare $ if there is any thickness for weight to them.
Yeah I have some tungsten pine car weights, cheaper than copper I suppose but very hard to machine with the ghetto tools I got.
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Old 08-05-2014, 04:31 PM   #10677
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I just use the inside hole on the standard rb6 rear arms and that seems to be a really good shock angle. Anything too far inside will make a mid motor car too "point and shoot-ish" which they aren't really good at in the first place. And if that's what people want, then run rear motor.
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Old 08-05-2014, 04:49 PM   #10678
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That's not true at all. The B5M is at least 4MM narrower than our car at the D-in pivot. That gives them more roll and when you bring the shocks in you stiffen that back up.
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Old 08-06-2014, 10:29 AM   #10679
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That's not true at all. The B5M is at least 4MM narrower than our car at the D-in pivot. That gives them more roll and when you bring the shocks in you stiffen that back up.
Hmm I thought standing the shock up makes it less progressive and makes it roll more.
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Old 08-06-2014, 10:56 AM   #10680
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More inclined is less progressive but you don't have the same lateral support. That doesn't mean more roll though, just less side bite. I've found it enters and exits better but doesn't corner with as much support.

It's a trade off and what I'm working on is to make a narrower rear pivot which will give it more roll and then using the shocks to give it forward bite
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