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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-02-2014, 04:38 AM   #10546
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So I've been trying to get more weight over the rear axle to increase forward traction but despite running a shorty servo and moving the battery as far back as possible the best I could get was 38%/62%. A local Pro running a mid-motor B5m on my track has had good success with and recommended a 36% / 64% split. I would have had to add 90g directly over the rear axle to achieve this on my RB6!

Naive as I was, I didn't realise that I could reduce the wheelbase by moving all rear suspension / hub shims to the rear! Reducing the wheelbase by 4mm and removing another 8g of mass from the front with Titanium Ball-studs, some drilling and more titanium screws / aluminium nuts got me to 36.7%/63.3%.

Then by putting 21g of brass onto the rear bumper I was able to get to 36% / 64%.

Now just need to add some mass under the battery (at the CoG) to get up to minimum weight! Can't wait to try it out at the track!

You are getting wayyyyy to technical. Lol
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:12 AM   #10547
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indeed. just wheel it. practice will make up for slightly imperfect (as per the books at least) weight balance
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:06 AM   #10548
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The technical stuff is good to read though and does get the brain ticking
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:20 PM   #10549
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Hey guys, can someone post a pic of the revised (regular, not lightweight) alum chassis that has the extra battery post holes?

I'll like to order one and want to make sure to get the revised version.

Many Thanks!
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:54 AM   #10550
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Hey guys, can someone post a pic of the revised (regular, not lightweight) alum chassis that has the extra battery post holes?

I'll like to order one and want to make sure to get the revised version.

Many Thanks!


I think this would be the "revised" chassis. It's what I got in my "world championship" edition RB6 Kit a couple of months ago. Maybe someone else can confirm that this is the "revised" one?
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:02 AM   #10551
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indeed. just wheel it. practice will make up for slightly imperfect (as per the books at least) weight balance
Yeah, I think the fact I only get an opportunity once or maybe twice a fortnight to wheel the thing means I spend a lot of time thinking about it to get my "fix". I enjoy the thinking and tinkering almost as much as the driving.

I just finished putting in some ACER ceramic diff bearings and AVID ceramic thrust bearing and man WHAT A DIFFERENCE!

Before that I had the MIP steel bearings that come with the MIP Pucks kit and the diff felt very rough and grindy? I just assumed this was normal.

Before putting in the ceramic bearings I took the time to sand the diff rings nice and flat/smooth with progressively finer sand paper over some glass. Now the diff feels amazingly smooth! Very happy. Not sure if this will affect how it drives but who cares when it feels this good lol.
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:54 AM   #10552
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I think this would be the "revised" chassis. It's what I got in my "world championship" edition RB6 Kit a couple of months ago. Maybe someone else can confirm that this is the "revised" one?
Looks good. Cheers mate
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:49 AM   #10553
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Originally Posted by Zylux View Post


I think this would be the "revised" chassis. It's what I got in my "world championship" edition RB6 Kit a couple of months ago. Maybe someone else can confirm that this is the "revised" one?
This still looks like it has more milling than the original one I have. I could be mistaken but now I have to check. Maybe new kit time.
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:28 AM   #10554
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Default The original chassis

That one does look slightly revised. Here is the original chassis.
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:55 AM   #10555
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That one does look slightly revised. Here is the original chassis.
Lite weight chassis doing well for you? I've been running my buggy at 1535 grams with the stock chassis. Almost scared to remove any more weight.
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Old 07-03-2014, 11:53 AM   #10556
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I've gone back to the std chassis. I want the newest std chassis though. I think the lightweight is best for stock, not sure about mod.
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:10 PM   #10557
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I've gone back to the std chassis. I want the newest std chassis though. I think the lightweight is best for stock, not sure about mod.
Care to elaborate? I'm running a 7.5 and have no plans on running stock but I was thinking about trying the lite weight chassis for more flex. I run on a medium grip black dirt track mostly but frequently run on a loose outdoor track as well.
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:33 PM   #10558
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Yeah Chris my RB6 is on rails. My car is working great at Rockford. I'm gonna come race with you guys in Milwaukee soon to see if the work I'm putting in is paying off.
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:48 PM   #10559
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Yeah Chris my RB6 is on rails. My car is working great at Rockford. I'm gonna come race with you guys in Milwaukee soon to see if the work I'm putting in is paying off.
Very cool. Wait till you see my battery layout now. I gotta say, it's best feeling car I've had yet and lightest by about 65 grams!
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:14 PM   #10560
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Care to elaborate? I'm running a 7.5 and have no plans on running stock but I was thinking about trying the lite weight chassis for more flex. I run on a medium grip black dirt track mostly but frequently run on a loose outdoor track as well.
I feel as though the LW adds grip, but almost too much. I found, after awhile, that the car would soak up too much in the chassis and not let the suspension work its magic as well. Anytime I stiffened up the car, the chassis would just flex more and it would be a little inconsistent. In stock you may not have this issue, and the 30g weight is probably well worth the effort, but in mod where the forces are increased and faster, it just felt a bit weird sometimes.
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