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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 06-27-2014, 11:42 AM   #10531
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Anyone try red front springs yet? The AE Guys are running red and gold. 1.6s all around.
I've tried them on mm on astro. It made the car twitchy and hard to drive. I felt white front was a lot better.
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Old 06-27-2014, 04:13 PM   #10532
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nro, possible to clip a pix of your electronics layout?..
cheers!!
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:40 PM   #10533
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Thank you so so much..btw, when you do a batt change, by the look from the pix, you have to lift up your esc am i right?

cheers..
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:35 PM   #10534
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I bought a rtr rb6 some time back, also bought a rb5 sp for the shocks ball diff and universal. Question is after changing the dog bones for the rb5 universal the rear doesn't have or should I say have very little amount of droop. Is this the norm for you guys with the kit?
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:51 PM   #10535
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Originally Posted by mog ruith View Post
I bought a rtr rb6 some time back, also bought a rb5 sp for the shocks ball diff and universal. Question is after changing the dog bones for the rb5 universal the rear doesn't have or should I say have very little amount of droop. Is this the norm for you guys with the kit?
The Rb6 runs very little droop. Probably the least I've seen used on any car. Not too worry though, it works. Not sure what they did in the design, but it works and works well. Just pay close attention when you look at different setup sheets, to see which arms (either the RB6 stock or the Rb5 flat 521-1 ones), shock ends (there's three you can use, short, med, and long (the ones listed as long on the package are actually the med ones), and the length of the shock shaft (usually in the 26-28mm range between the bottom of the shock and the top of the shock end).
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:59 PM   #10536
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
The Rb6 runs very little droop. Probably the least I've seen used on any car. Not too worry though, it works. Not sure what they did in the design, but it works and works well. Just pay close attention when you look at different setup sheets, to see which arms (either the RB6 stock or the Rb5 flat 521-1 ones), shock ends (there's three you can use, short, med, and long (the ones listed as long on the package are actually the med ones), and the length of the shock shaft (usually in the 26-28mm range between the bottom of the shock and the top of the shock end).
You guys dont have problems with chasis slap in the rear?
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Old 06-28-2014, 10:30 AM   #10537
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Thank you so so much..btw, when you do a batt change, by the look from the pix, you have to lift up your esc am i right?

cheers..
No worries bro. Was gonna so set screws and a thumb screw type thing but I just charge the battery in car for the outdoor season. For indoor I might have to charge in a lipo sack.
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Old 06-28-2014, 12:00 PM   #10538
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Originally Posted by mog ruith View Post
You guys dont have problems with chasis slap in the rear?
Nope. With all the different cars I have driven the rb6 is the best with jumping. You can throw it around a lot more then other brands. The rb5 arms give you a lot more droop then the rb6 rear arms.
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Old 06-28-2014, 10:54 PM   #10539
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Originally Posted by Holmberg418 View Post
Nope. With all the different cars I have driven the rb6 is the best with jumping. You can throw it around a lot more then other brands. The rb5 arms give you a lot more droop then the rb6 rear arms.
well mine does. maybe i will try out the rb5 arms.
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Old 06-29-2014, 02:15 AM   #10540
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Great, hopefully the extra 1.5deg of rear toe will improve things. I'll try more anti-squat as well. I have every front and rear spring except for the rear white and pink so that will have to wait. I may try playing with roll centers and shock mounting positions to reduce the relative roll stiffness at the back end in the interim.

Appreciate the help guys!
Just an update on my lack of rear stability / grip issue. Tried 3.5 deg of rear toe-in today and it really locked-in the rear end. I was shocked how much difference it made. Definitely on the right track.
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Old 06-29-2014, 09:28 AM   #10541
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
No worries bro. Was gonna so set screws and a thumb screw type thing but I just charge the battery in car for the outdoor season. For indoor I might have to charge in a lipo sack.
Great.. Thank you so much again.. Am setting up my electricals now.. Hopefully can be as neat as possible.. Running full size servo and a shorty pack and trying to shift the batt as far up to the front as possible..

Hopefully this will add some some grip to the buggy..

Cheers!!
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:29 AM   #10542
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Does anyone know the part number for a shock rebuild kit?
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Old 07-01-2014, 10:57 AM   #10543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mog ruith View Post
You guys dont have problems with chasis slap in the rear?
Yes and No on that one.

Really depends on your shock setup (spring, oil, and piston selection). With the stock "kit" shock setup, I had chassis slap a lot unless I down sided the bugger jumps perfectly. Was a little concerned at first, then started playing with the shocks and they are much better now, but if I over shoot a landing far/bad enough I can get chassis slap. Come to think of it, I can get chassis slap out of just about any car/truck I've ever ran. LOL.

True the RB5 rear arms can net you more rear droop, but most guys I know and the top guys that I have got to ask about the RB5 arms all run those arms with the same kind of rear droop as the RB6 arms would run. Which is why the three different length shock ends come in real handy. Like I said, the RB6 likes very little droop when compared to other cars. Looks crazy, but it works.
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:33 PM   #10544
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Originally Posted by Trident69 View Post
Great.. Thank you so much again.. Am setting up my electricals now.. Hopefully can be as neat as possible.. Running full size servo and a shorty pack and trying to shift the batt as far up to the front as possible..

Hopefully this will add some some grip to the buggy..

Cheers!!
Cool let us know. Also if you also got the original chassis you can try it with that as well (gave my original to a friend), for sure the LW works great for me, lot of straightline grip and side grip as well.
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:14 AM   #10545
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So I've been trying to get more weight over the rear axle to increase forward traction but despite running a shorty servo and moving the battery as far back as possible the best I could get was 38%/62%. A local Pro running a mid-motor B5m on my track has had good success with and recommended a 36% / 64% split. I would have had to add 90g directly over the rear axle to achieve this on my RB6!

Naive as I was, I didn't realise that I could reduce the wheelbase by moving all rear suspension / hub shims to the rear! Reducing the wheelbase by 4mm and removing another 8g of mass from the front with Titanium Ball-studs, some drilling and more titanium screws / aluminium nuts got me to 36.7%/63.3%.

Then by putting 21g of brass onto the rear bumper I was able to get to 36% / 64%.

Now just need to add some mass under the battery (at the CoG) to get up to minimum weight! Can't wait to try it out at the track!
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