Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread >

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree172Likes

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-16-2014, 08:02 PM
  #10501  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
 
Holmberg418's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Blaine,Mn
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jspires688
I'm running mid motor
Pink or white front. Gold or red rear.
Holmberg418 is offline  
Old 06-16-2014, 08:32 PM
  #10502  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
79kmc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Gold Coast,australia
Posts: 149
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default rims

Hey guys just wondering if the serpent srx2 buggy rims will work on the rb6
Thanks
79kmc is offline  
Old 06-16-2014, 10:05 PM
  #10503  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (40)
 
the big rc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: portland
Posts: 2,171
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

does anyone make a slightly longer battery brace? I need one about a half inch longer.
the big rc is offline  
Old 06-18-2014, 06:59 AM
  #10504  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Myrtle Beach SC
Posts: 174
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 79kmc
Hey guys just wondering if the serpent srx2 buggy rims will work on the rb6
Thanks
That's currently what I'm running with no problems. They are slightly narrower than the kyosho wheels but they do work.
chad508 is offline  
Old 06-18-2014, 01:35 PM
  #10505  
Suspended
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 23
Default

Checkout this rb6 review video. I found on Kyosho Electric facebook page.


http://youtu.be/jpvn3ruZofw
rcaddict12 is offline  
Old 06-21-2014, 10:18 AM
  #10506  
Tech Master
iTrader: (156)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,372
Trader Rating: 156 (100%+)
Default

I have the kyosho v2 hubs, are there suppose to be crush tubes in between the bearings. What size of crush tube is it suppose to be
Breeze is offline  
Old 06-21-2014, 12:13 PM
  #10507  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (20)
 
PhilDz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Corona, Ca
Posts: 149
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Breeze
I have the kyosho v2 hubs, are there suppose to be crush tubes in between the bearings. What size of crush tube is it suppose to be
yes, the stock crush tubes.
PhilDz is offline  
Old 06-21-2014, 01:01 PM
  #10508  
Tech Master
iTrader: (156)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,372
Trader Rating: 156 (100%+)
Default

The exploded view doesn't show crush tubes
Breeze is offline  
Old 06-21-2014, 05:45 PM
  #10509  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (70)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 2,555
Trader Rating: 70 (100%+)
Default

Yeah neither does the manual.
PROMODVETTE is offline  
Old 06-21-2014, 10:37 PM
  #10510  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (20)
 
PhilDz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Corona, Ca
Posts: 149
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

it's called a brass collar in the manual
PhilDz is offline  
Old 06-22-2014, 07:36 AM
  #10511  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
 
K_King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,234
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys, yesterday I was able to have a chance and finally spend a good part of the day testing things I rarely get time to do. Normally I make a change at home, go to the track after work during race day and run it. My base setup has been the King/Tebo setup from Reedy, and I feel that is a pretty good setup overall. I wanted to see if I could make it a little more balanced for me and my track and I feel like I did. I initially started with pink springs in the front and middle on the tower, but felt like I was a little too soft for our track and it dumped over on exit causing it to cut. I messed with Ackerman to see what it would do and I can use that 1mm shim to add exit cut if our track ever gets really grippy, but its so inconsistent it's safer to run at 0.

I usually make a setup that is overly aggressive on steering, and I've finally been able, I feel like, to make it steer while feeling planted on exit.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...une%202014.pdf
K_King is offline  
Old 06-22-2014, 08:38 AM
  #10512  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 2,035
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by K_King
Hey guys, yesterday I was able to have a chance and finally spend a good part of the day testing things I rarely get time to do. Normally I make a change at home, go to the track after work during race day and run it. My base setup has been the King/Tebo setup from Reedy, and I feel that is a pretty good setup overall. I wanted to see if I could make it a little more balanced for me and my track and I feel like I did. I initially started with pink springs in the front and middle on the tower, but felt like I was a little too soft for our track and it dumped over on exit causing it to cut. I messed with Ackerman to see what it would do and I can use that 1mm shim to add exit cut if our track ever gets really grippy, but its so inconsistent it's safer to run at 0.

I usually make a setup that is overly aggressive on steering, and I've finally been able, I feel like, to make it steer while feeling planted on exit.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...une%202014.pdf
Hi Kevin, thanks for sharing for a bumpy surface should I use the white rear springs or leave the gold on?
Speedychris22 is offline  
Old 06-22-2014, 08:45 AM
  #10513  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
 
K_King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,234
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Depends on how bumpy I suppose. Really I would work on pack for that, and watch how your car reacts off jumps and through the sections. White is still a good choice, but I think sometimes if you go too soft, the rear end rolls over so much, especially on exit, that it eventually gives up and you get a snap loose feel. The gold was holding the rear in place for me a bit better through the corner. I didnt feel like I was losing anything compared to white spring. Its a good idea to have both though.
K_King is offline  
Old 06-24-2014, 04:46 AM
  #10514  
Tech Adept
 
Zylux's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Posts: 133
Default

Had my first ever race on Sunday (well, aside from 2x5min runs against one other guy in novice class at an indoor carpet track which I'd never run on before). Great fun. I finished 4th in stock class (only 10 in the field) but I was really struggling with forward traction at the rear all day. The only time I could use more than 1/2 throttle was when I fed in power very gently down the long finish straight and if I fed it in too quickly the rear would be stepping out all over the place down the straight. Obviously corner exit was also terrible, but mid-corner through a fast sweeping bend grip was great. I tried a number of different tires, including AKA Impacts (soft & Super soft) AKA GridIron 2 (super soft) and Holeshot M3s and the Gridirons felt the best but still very minimal traction. Other guys I spoke with, running both mid-motor and rear motor cars using AKA impact (SS) tires indicated that they weren't having rear traction issues and could be much more aggressive with the throttle. Track was hard packed, dry and had a light dust layer all day despite efforts to blow-off the track. Running pink springs front, gold rear and 1.3x4 pistons in MM config.

I checked the car yesterday and realized I was only running 2 deg rear toe-in. I've changed it to 3.5 deg in the hope that it will lock-in the rear end a little. The last time I ran the car (before fitting the aluminium adjustable-toe suspension mounts) the toe would have been at stock setting (3 degrees?) and the car felt a lot better, but that could have been due to track conditions etc. Could the amount of toe-in make that much difference? How much rear toe-in are people running on this buggy in MM on off-road medium-grip tracks?

Next time out I'll also try going up in spring stiffness at the front (or down in the rear; of course the white rear spring is the only one I don't have lol!) and maybe a bit more anti-squat in the rear as well. I guess I could increase the front roll-center to take some transfer off the back as well without having to change spring-rate. Will also try putting more weight over the rear if I can. Any other suggestions?
Zylux is offline  
Old 06-24-2014, 05:59 AM
  #10515  
Tech Master
iTrader: (46)
 
mourinho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,003
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Zylux - I experienced similar issues with the rear end spinning out on similar track conditions.
The thing that helped the most was loosening the diff, I had it far too tight from when I was running on carpet, then going to hardpack with dust it was all over the place.
mourinho is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.