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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-24-2014, 05:28 AM   #10441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mourinho View Post
i finished building my rb6 recently coming from nitro and i swear 2wd's take longer to build and are more complicated than anything 8 scale...

i had the slipper set as per the manual with the nut flush with shaft end and found it to be slipping very badly, i tightened the slipper incrementally and could only eliminate slip with the spring completely compressed.
is this normal?
also i am now doubting the ball diff set up as there seems to be a strange whinning noise when on throttle.

ive never had problems running multiple nitro's and electric 8th scales, but this thing has me scratching my head.
Tighten the ball diff until u stop hearing that noise. Once u do that loosen the slipper.
Watch this
"How To Properly Build And Break In a Ball Differential and Slipper Clutch"
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Old 05-26-2014, 08:05 PM   #10442
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anyone have part number for this arm? also explain why use this are vs gullwing arm?
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-tebo-flat-arm.jpg  
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:03 PM   #10443
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521-1
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Old 05-30-2014, 05:18 PM   #10444
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I'm looking for some input on piston and oil weight suggestion for low traction bumpy surface? I'm running rear motor.
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Old 05-30-2014, 09:21 PM   #10445
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I'm looking for some input on piston and oil weight suggestion for low traction bumpy surface? I'm running rear motor.
If you still have the stock pistons start with 37.5 front 32.5 rear and you may want to try the gold spring in the rear.

I prefer to run 4 hole pistons with 1.3mm holes with 35 front and 30 rear, it makes the car better and can handle bumps way better
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Old 05-31-2014, 04:30 AM   #10446
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Originally Posted by nitroargi View Post
If you still have the stock pistons start with 37.5 front 32.5 rear and you may want to try the gold spring in the rear.

I prefer to run 4 hole pistons with 1.3mm holes with 35 front and 30 rear, it makes the car better and can handle bumps way better
The local fast guy told me to use 25f and 20 rear losi, that seems low to me.
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:27 AM   #10447
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Yeah that's super low
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:29 AM   #10448
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I run 35 front 30 rear on a very Broken and bumpy surface I just raise the ride height and seems ok
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Old 05-31-2014, 06:32 AM   #10449
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Just quick one, I decide to look at my weight %'s on my RM tonight and with a shorty all the way back my percentages are F=36% and R=64% is that about right on average?
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Old 05-31-2014, 06:46 AM   #10450
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I run 27.5/22.5 with 2x1.5 pistons
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:14 AM   #10451
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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
Just quick one, I decide to look at my weight %'s on my RM tonight and with a shorty all the way back my percentages are F=36% and R=64% is that about right on average?
Interesting. I'd have thought maybe more % rear than that. My mid motor is about 62.x % at the rear.
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:15 AM   #10452
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
I run 27.5/22.5 with 2x1.5 pistons
Kevin that's what I was running in mm car. I switched to rear motor, u think I should leave the 1.5 pistons in or switch to the 4x1.3
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:31 AM   #10453
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
I run 27.5/22.5 with 2x1.5 pistons
I was told my setup was way off when I posted it awhile back with the same shock package go figure.
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:37 AM   #10454
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I run 27.5/22.5 with 2x1.5 pistons
Same here from cody king setup.
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:38 AM   #10455
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I was told my setup was way off when I posted it awhile back with the same shock package go figure.
lolz yeah a year back the 1.3x4 pistons were the hot ticket.
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