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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-17-2014, 07:20 PM   #10411
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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
Yeah I didn't find that set up the best for me either.
There are two shops that I know of that are stocking K stuff at good prices so its getting easier for K part now here in Australia.

I run my shorty lipo all the way back with the ESC behind that (as in the manual) but I'm running white springs or gold with 4x1.3 pistons.

Mind you my set up is a lot different now than the Japan set up.
I am going to try the 2x1.6 pistons next.
what esc are you using? Mid or Rear?

i ask because i have my shorty positioned per the manual in mid motor and there is no way an rs gen 2 will fit between the rear battery holder and the motor, in fact it wont even fit in front of the battery either as i am using a full size servo not a low profile one.
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:35 PM   #10412
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yeh I'm after those white springs, but for now I have some x-gear(tamiya) springs and losi's to try.

and yes RM car.

I actually like the 5hole pistons, as my track is quite bumpy.
I wasn't a fan of the 5 hole so I went to the GHEA 4x1.3 and the car was far better for our club track here in Adelaide.
So I know they work I now will just see what the 2x1.6 are like

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Originally Posted by mourinho View Post
what esc are you using? Mid or Rear?

i ask because i have my shorty positioned per the manual in mid motor and there is no way an rs gen 2 will fit between the rear battery holder and the motor, in fact it wont even fit in front of the battery either as i am using a full size servo not a low profile one.
That's in my RM car with my RS Gen2, but yes MM that wouldn't fit.
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:51 PM   #10413
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Originally Posted by mourinho View Post
what esc are you using? Mid or Rear?

i ask because i have my shorty positioned per the manual in mid motor and there is no way an rs gen 2 will fit between the rear battery holder and the motor, in fact it wont even fit in front of the battery either as i am using a full size servo not a low profile one.
It should be able to fit, I got an Orion R10 between the motor and batt, with the batt as far back as I could get it, and with a full size servo up front.
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:52 PM   #10414
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Oh yeah like that would fit sorry I run my MM with saddles ATM anyway.
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:00 PM   #10415
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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
Oh yeah like that would fit sorry I run my MM with saddles ATM anyway.
No worries,
Took me a few tries to figure it out, then a few layout changes, and some late nights/early mornings. LOL.
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Old 05-17-2014, 10:28 PM   #10416
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
It should be able to fit, I got an Orion R10 between the motor and batt, with the batt as far back as I could get it, and with a full size servo up front.
I've seen that setup quite a lot and always wondered by people don't run the battery the opposite way around to shorten the power wires to the ESC?
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Old 05-17-2014, 10:35 PM   #10417
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I've seen that setup quite a lot and always wondered by people don't run the battery the opposite way around to shorten the power wires to the ESC?
That pic wasn't no too long after I had made the ESC move to the rear and wasn't sure if it was going to stay there. I have since shortened the +/- batt leads and turned the batt around for a shorter more direct wiring..
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Old 05-17-2014, 10:56 PM   #10418
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
That pic wasn't no too long after I had made the ESC move to the rear and wasn't sure if it was going to stay there. I have since shortened the +/- batt leads and turned the batt around for a shorter more direct wiring..
Ok cool. Did you put the esc behind the battery to move the CoG further forward? When I was building mine I assumed that I would want the bias further back, given that nearly everyone at my track runs rear motor, so I placed my shorty all the way against the motor. The funny thing was, when I put a brass weight (21g) on the rear bumper to meet minimum weight and also get more weight on the rear I found that the car was much more difficult to control and had a lot less rear grip than without the weight. Now I'm questioning my quest for more rear weight bias. Maybe 62% on the rear is plenty or even too much?
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:48 PM   #10419
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Ok cool. Did you put the esc behind the battery to move the CoG further forward? When I was building mine I assumed that I would want the bias further back, given that nearly everyone at my track runs rear motor, so I placed my shorty all the way against the motor. The funny thing was, when I put a brass weight (21g) on the rear bumper to meet minimum weight and also get more weight on the rear I found that the car was much more difficult to control and had a lot less rear grip than without the weight. Now I'm questioning my quest for more rear weight bias. Maybe 62% on the rear is plenty or even too much?
No not ness. for CoG purposes. My r10 is a little on the heavy side from the Tekin's most guys I know use. With the R10 up front, I had a lot of steering, but not as much rear grip as I would have liked. I first added 14g behind the batt to rebalance the car a little. Was ok, but wanted to clean up the wiring more and decided to move the ESC to the rear to try that and see how it worked. Plus have a cleaner wiring as a side bonus. I think it moved a little more weight to the rear. Can't say for sure how much, but I don't think it's enough for me to worry about. I did loose just a little front bite by moving the ESC to the rear, but it still feels pretty good. I added the new rear bulkhead and brass weights to play around with as an easy way to adjust rear weight for when the track is a little looser. Not sure if that is ideal, but so far I have 10g on the rear bulkhead and it still seems ok. I know most of the guys I usually race with, have gone to the square packs or saddle packs for the added weight. They seem to really like it, but I'll just probably stay with the shorty and add weight if/when needed.

I've been running a little of both mod and stock, so I'm playing around with stuff a little more than the guys I race with do, as they usually only run mod. We'll see how it goes. I'm sure I'll probably change things around more, but for now I'm happy with the car and rear weight. I also run 2/2.5 rear toe when most others I know run 3/3.5. As with just about everything in RC, it's a trade off somewhere. The only question is where do you want to make that trade off.
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Old 05-18-2014, 01:00 AM   #10420
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
No not ness. for CoG purposes. My r10 is a little on the heavy side from the Tekin's most guys I know use. With the R10 up front, I had a lot of steering, but not as much rear grip as I would have liked. I first added 14g behind the batt to rebalance the car a little. Was ok, but wanted to clean up the wiring more and decided to move the ESC to the rear to try that and see how it worked. Plus have a cleaner wiring as a side bonus. I think it moved a little more weight to the rear. Can't say for sure how much, but I don't think it's enough for me to worry about. I did loose just a little front bite by moving the ESC to the rear, but it still feels pretty good. I added the new rear bulkhead and brass weights to play around with as an easy way to adjust rear weight for when the track is a little looser. Not sure if that is ideal, but so far I have 10g on the rear bulkhead and it still seems ok. I know most of the guys I usually race with, have gone to the square packs or saddle packs for the added weight. They seem to really like it, but I'll just probably stay with the shorty and add weight if/when needed.

I've been running a little of both mod and stock, so I'm playing around with stuff a little more than the guys I race with do, as they usually only run mod. We'll see how it goes. I'm sure I'll probably change things around more, but for now I'm happy with the car and rear weight. I also run 2/2.5 rear toe when most others I know run 3/3.5. As with just about everything in RC, it's a trade off somewhere. The only question is where do you want to make that trade off.
Thanks. I found that to get the weight back I needed to run the Tekin ESC forward; this allowed me to get everything back further because I could run the battery below the waterfall brace and the battery weighed more per mm than the ESC anyway so it made sense to put the ESC forward.
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Old 05-18-2014, 12:51 PM   #10421
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Looking for some setup help for an indoor low grip, hard packed, and dusty track. Current setup is rear motor with the Japan setup. Running a shorty pack all the way back with the esc behind the batt. With the only changes being hubs all the way forward and no shim under the rear bumper. Still kind of confused with lack of info on the anti squat settings lol. Stock 5 hole pistons, pink front spring with 37.5 and white rear with 32.5. Lacking some forward grip. No side guard screws and front bracing removed from the rear bulkhead. Really have to baby the car out of the corners to keep it from stepping out on me.
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Old 05-18-2014, 01:59 PM   #10422
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Originally Posted by jwcobra03 View Post
Looking for some setup help for an indoor low grip, hard packed, and dusty track. Current setup is rear motor with the Japan setup. Running a shorty pack all the way back with the esc behind the batt. With the only changes being hubs all the way forward and no shim under the rear bumper. Still kind of confused with lack of info on the anti squat settings lol. Stock 5 hole pistons, pink front spring with 37.5 and white rear with 32.5. Lacking some forward grip. No side guard screws and front bracing removed from the rear bulkhead. Really have to baby the car out of the corners to keep it from stepping out on me.
Assuming you have already played with tyres? I found that on a dusty track AKA Impacts (SS) work well on the rear for me, compared with Rebars and Deja-Vu rears which have zero grip in comparison.
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Old 05-18-2014, 04:40 PM   #10423
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I tried different tires 2.0 holeshots and impacts seem to work best in SS. Those are the ones I tend to run. Gigabytes were ok. Just need that little bit more forward bite and I'll be happy. Sauce also helps. Hope to get some little setup tweaks that'll benefit the buggy.
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Old 05-18-2014, 04:41 PM   #10424
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Originally Posted by jwcobra03 View Post
Looking for some setup help for an indoor low grip, hard packed, and dusty track. Current setup is rear motor with the Japan setup. Running a shorty pack all the way back with the esc behind the batt. With the only changes being hubs all the way forward and no shim under the rear bumper. Still kind of confused with lack of info on the anti squat settings lol. Stock 5 hole pistons, pink front spring with 37.5 and white rear with 32.5. Lacking some forward grip. No side guard screws and front bracing removed from the rear bulkhead. Really have to baby the car out of the corners to keep it from stepping out on me.
I'm waiting for Jason to fill out a sheet but u might want to watch his vid about the rb6 review. It showed how he was able to get more flex in the chassis.
So far I know he's running 1mm shims under all ball studs. Middle hole in front block. I'm assuming 25 deg caster, shocks he's running 4x1.3 32 f 30 rear
I'm wondering about limiters in shocks as we'll shock end length and the length of the shocks? Jason help us out. The rear I'm wondering which shims he's using for anti squat
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Old 05-18-2014, 06:33 PM   #10425
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I'm waiting for Jason to fill out a sheet but u might want to watch his vid about the rb6 review. It showed how he was able to get more flex in the chassis.
So far I know he's running 1mm shims under all ball studs. Middle hole in front block. I'm assuming 25 deg caster, shocks he's running 4x1.3 32 f 30 rear
I'm wondering about limiters in shocks as we'll shock end length and the length of the shocks? Jason help us out. The rear I'm wondering which shims he's using for anti squat
I've seen his review and i did the mod to the bulkhead brace. We run on totally different track conditions though. So his setup might not be ideal for the track i run on. It has some sand in it, so traction will be relatively low for quite sometime.
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