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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-15-2014, 04:43 PM   #10396
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Why not ceramic?
I have never been a fan of ceramic. I tried a set in my oval car way back in the day and I just didn't like them. I can't be more specific as I don't remember why I didn't like them, sorry.
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Old 05-15-2014, 06:46 PM   #10397
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I get chrome steel balls at mcmaster carr. 100 for 4.36. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-steel-balls/=rzdlzl The soft part is the diff ring, so if its broke in properly any ball will work fine.
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Old 05-15-2014, 07:18 PM   #10398
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I get chrome steel balls at mcmaster carr. 100 for 4.36. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-steel-balls/=rzdlzl The soft part is the diff ring, so if its broke in properly any ball will work fine.
this store is just full of wonderful little items that work great for rc!
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Old 05-16-2014, 02:17 AM   #10399
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Default Lightweight chassis

Now that the lightweight chassis has been out for a while, I'd like to know your feeling about it. Is it only useful for low grip and you suffer on high grip, or is it versatile enough using the sideguards that you can use it successfully on high grip too?

I run on high grip astro tracks, so I need the stiffness, but I also happen to run on really slippery tracks (unprepared dirt or gym floor) where I could do with a softer chassis.

Thx
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Old 05-16-2014, 06:31 AM   #10400
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Originally Posted by Gayosaka View Post
Now that the lightweight chassis has been out for a while, I'd like to know your feeling about it. Is it only useful for low grip and you suffer on high grip, or is it versatile enough using the sideguards that you can use it successfully on high grip too?

I run on high grip astro tracks, so I need the stiffness, but I also happen to run on really slippery tracks (unprepared dirt or gym floor) where I could do with a softer chassis.

Thx
Sorry I can't help, but funnily enough I just received all of the Kyosho alloy and carbon parts a few hours ago and just finished fitting the lightweight chassis. Will try it out tomorrow but I'm not experienced enough to give constructive feedback on it's effect on handling at this stage.

One thing I can say is that the LW chassis actually weighed 29.8g less than the standard one though - more than advertised!

On another note, I tried the car today on our local dirt/clay circuit where apparently everyone else runs rear motor because of lack of traction for MM. It was very dusty (track not swept) I was lapping faster and more consistently than a guy with a rear motor B5 and my car actually felt a lot worse with a 30g weight added to the rear; maybe more forward weight bias isn't a bad thing after all. The RB6 was jumping extremely nicely and much better without the weight added to the rear.

So far the only rear tires that are working on this track for me are the AKA Impact Evos in SS compound. Rebars and Deja-Vu rears have no traction and Rebar fronts are also very poor. The pinstripe evo fronts aren't too bad but the 3 rib fronts are the best so far for me. Based on this are there any other tyres I should try on the front? Proline M4 Hole Shots worth a shot?

On another note; man do tires wear out quick!!!
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Old 05-16-2014, 06:58 AM   #10401
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Anyone have a good rear motor low traction setup they want to share?
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:30 AM   #10402
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Originally Posted by Gayosaka View Post
Now that the lightweight chassis has been out for a while, I'd like to know your feeling about it. Is it only useful for low grip and you suffer on high grip, or is it versatile enough using the sideguards that you can use it successfully on high grip too?

I run on high grip astro tracks, so I need the stiffness, but I also happen to run on really slippery tracks (unprepared dirt or gym floor) where I could do with a softer chassis.

Thx
I run on astro sometimes also. You don't need a stiff chassis for it to work good. For astro my mm car is at 1499 . With no side guard screws in and no motor guard (with the stock chassis). It's really easy to drive and very nible and quick in the corners.
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:50 AM   #10403
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this store is just full of wonderful little items that work great for rc!
Thats for sure. Like 90% of the hardware you would need you can get at mcmaster! I'm lucky (or unlucky to my wallet ) enough to live close to the Atlanta warehouse so get to go pick it up.
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Old 05-16-2014, 04:41 PM   #10404
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Anyone have a good rear motor low traction setup they want to share?
something close to mine but 25 and a white spring in the rear and maybe go up to 35 in front
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Old 05-16-2014, 06:09 PM   #10405
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something close to mine but 25 and a white spring in the rear and maybe go up to 35 in front
How are ur hubs positioned? Forward, middle or rear? Also what about the arms?
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:25 PM   #10406
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
How are ur hubs positioned? Forward, middle or rear? Also what about the arms?
forward and stock arms
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:32 AM   #10407
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Default lipo rear position

Hi, does anyone run the lipo all the way back, and place the esc in another position?

I've just started runniing the japan setup, and well.......it's crap haha, no forward traction.

Dont have any lighter springs to try yet, but another order-another 2 weeks wait. Yeh it's crap living the other side of the world......
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Old 05-17-2014, 04:24 PM   #10408
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
Hi, does anyone run the lipo all the way back, and place the esc in another position?

I've just started runniing the japan setup, and well.......it's crap haha, no forward traction.

Dont have any lighter springs to try yet, but another order-another 2 weeks wait. Yeh it's crap living the other side of the world......
RM or MM?

If in MM, I did run with the batt as far back as I could get it at the time, prior to the RT6 coming out and guys running the rear battery stop from the RT6 that moves the batt a little further back. I had both the ESC (R10) and RX in front of the batt, side by side, ESC on the right and Rx on the left. I got a little more steering that way (the R10 is a little heavier than other ESC's out there), but gave up just a little rear traction. Ended up adding 1/2oz (14g), right behind the batt and in front of the motor to try and rebalance the car a little better. Worked fairly well for the most part, though have since changed the layout to the ESC in the rear and batt in front of it.

Japan setup?
I ran the kit setup in RM for a bit, which I think is pretty close to the Japan setup or one of the Japan setups. It was ok if there were small jumps, but anything of decent size and it lacked the "pack" needed. If you got the stock 5 hole pistons in the shocks, ditch those puppies. Unless you want to try a heavier shock oil with them first.

Yes, living in Aus. doesn't make many things easy. Talked to a couple Aus. guys at the Cactus race this year and it doesn't sound like fun trying to get a lot of the RC items needed at a cheap or cheapish price or quickly.
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Old 05-17-2014, 05:44 PM   #10409
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
Hi, does anyone run the lipo all the way back, and place the esc in another position?

I've just started runniing the japan setup, and well.......it's crap haha, no forward traction.

Dont have any lighter springs to try yet, but another order-another 2 weeks wait. Yeh it's crap living the other side of the world......
Yeah I didn't find that set up the best for me either.
There are two shops that I know of that are stocking K stuff at good prices so its getting easier for K part now here in Australia.

I run my shorty lipo all the way back with the ESC behind that (as in the manual) but I'm running white springs or gold with 4x1.3 pistons.

Mind you my set up is a lot different now than the Japan set up.
I am going to try the 2x1.6 pistons next.
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:33 PM   #10410
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yeh I'm after those white springs, but for now I have some x-gear(tamiya) springs and losi's to try.

and yes RM car.

I actually like the 5hole pistons, as my track is quite bumpy.
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