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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-08-2014, 11:05 AM   #10366
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Originally Posted by Zylux View Post
Yeah I've got the arms/hubs/spindles on order so we'll see. I also got some JConcepts low profile serrated wheel nuts because the stock axles at the rear were too short for AKA Hexlite wheels (before I fitted the MIP Pucks system and realised it came with longer axles). The upside is that these weigh only 0.9g for the set vs 5.4g for the stock Kyosho nuts.

I'm not sure about the EVO wheels / Tyres. Maybe it's just the EVO Typos? I have the AKA EVO Pinstripe Fronts, EVO Impact Rears and EVO Deja Vu Rears and none of these save anywhere near 10g per wheel over the Regular AKA wheels/tyres or even Kyosho wheels. Here is what I've found;

Kyosho Rear Wheels: 18.5g each
AKA Hexlite Rear Wheels: 17g each
Kyosho Front Wheels: 12g each
AKA Hexlite Front Wheels: 11g each
AKA EVO Front Wheel: 14.2g each

AKA EVO Pinstripe front tyre including wheel & AKA red foam : 44.2g each
AKA Rebar Front tyre, Hexlite wheel and red foam: 45.4g
AKA 3 Rib front tyre, Kyosho wheel & red foam: 46.2g

AKA EVO Impact Rear tyre, EVO wheel & foam: 68.4g
AKA EVO Deja Vu tyre, Evo wheel & foam: 63.3g
AKA Impact (non EVO), Kyosho wheel, AKA foam: 68.5g

So up to 5.2g per rear and 2g per front for me between the EVO and non-EVO wheels/tyres. I guess it depends on what you compare them to though. Certainly not 10g each from where I'm standing.

Also, just swapped steering servo from a temporary Hitec 5645mg (too slow) to a Protek 130SS and put on 9.2g. Didn't realise the hitec was only 55g and the Protek is 64.2! That will hurt the CoG a little.
Thanks for the wheel/tire/foam weights,
I had to go and recheck some of mine my self. The weight savings will vary between tire/wheel/foam setups for sure. Going from what I was running to just the evo/Typo setup did save right at 10g per wheel/tire/foam, but when weighing other wheel/tire/foam combos, it wasn't always that much.

Here's what I just weighed, hopefully it'll help in conjunction with your weights, so people can have a better idea should they need the info:

Kyosho front wheel
Losi taper pin with red foam
42g
Kyosho front wheel
PL MC Suburb with red foam
52g
Kyosho front wheel
Rebar with red foam
48g
Kyosho front wheel
PL MC scrub with red foam
50g
Kyosho front wheel
Barcode with red foam
46g
Evo front wheel
Typo with red foam
42g
Kyosho rear wheel
Losi bk bar with red foam
66g
Kyosho rear wheel
Barcode with red foam
70g
Kyosho rear wheel
Rebar with red foam
66g
Kyosho rear wheel
PL MC Suburb with red foam
72g
Kyosho rear wheel
PL MC Suburb with stock foam
68g
Evo rear wheel
Typo (new) red foam
62g
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:27 AM   #10367
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Awesome info guys! thanks.

Heres the electronics I tried on my car

The lightest/powerful servo for me was the bls551, but I prefer the 451 for more weight on the front lower down (551 - 44 grams, 451 - 60 grams).

The HW jusstock/tekin spec gen2/v3.1 stock spec HW are some of the lightest speedos around 40-50 grams with cap

The r1wurks/D3.5 are right around the 170 gram mark. The tekins are super heavy at 185 plus.

Rx most are around 5 gram mark

Other weight savings are

Using velcro instead of battery tray and strap saves another 10 grams approx.

16 ga wire saves around 5 grams over 13 ga

Short turnbuckles with longer cups help shave some but would not bother with it makes car weaker.

avid or slipper eliminator helps shave more off rotational mass.
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:38 AM   #10368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Awesome info guys! thanks.

Heres the electronics I tried on my car

The lightest/powerful servo for me was the bls551, but I prefer the 451 for more weight on the front lower down (551 - 44 grams, 451 - 60 grams).

The HW jusstock/tekin spec gen2/v3.1 stock spec HW are some of the lightest speedos around 40-50 grams with cap

The r1wurks/D3.5 are right around the 170 gram mark. The tekins are super heavy at 185 plus.

Rx most are around 5 gram mark

Other weight savings are

Using velcro instead of battery tray and strap saves another 10 grams approx.

16 ga wire saves around 5 grams over 13 ga

Short turnbuckles with longer cups help shave some but would not bother with it makes car weaker.

avid or slipper eliminator helps shave more off rotational mass.
Nice setup,

For stock, I can see guys trying to shave every little gram they can. I don't think mod guys would need to go that far, though if they really wanted to, they easily could.

I still haven't got any of the Pinstrip/Deja Vu tires yet to try out, but I'm thinking that they'll probably be close in weight to the Typo's I have, for sure the front's at least. I was fairly surprised to see how heavy some of my tire/wheel/foam setup actually were. It's no wonder why when mixing and matching front and rear, the car can feel vastly different.
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Old 05-08-2014, 02:33 PM   #10369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1967rs View Post
I am running a mid motor car with the LW chassis, carbon shock towers and arms, Ti screws, Ti turn buckels, Ti hinge pins, Ti ball studs, Ti front axles, MIP puck sustem, exotek batt hold down, full size servo, trinity shorty batt, Tekin rs gen2, de wheels, panther tires, j-concepts body. My car is under min weight by about 15g.
Thanks for that. I did get some DE wheels but found that they were quite heavy. Will have to check numbers later but fairly sure it was a few grams per wheel. Maybe they are stiffer though so if you like that they may be better. I wouldn't want the extra unsprung mass though.

Do you know what your front/rear weight bias is? What type of track do you run on and are you happy with the balance of the car?

I wouldn't mind some Ti hinge pins and turnbuckles. Does anyone think that 7075 ally would hold up as hinge pins? Axles seem to be fine and don't think the hinge pins would be under greater stress. Might machine some up and try. Assume the stock ones are steel.
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Old 05-08-2014, 02:36 PM   #10370
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Thanks for the wheel/tire/foam weights,
I had to go and recheck some of mine my self. The weight savings will vary between tire/wheel/foam setups for sure. Going from what I was running to just the evo/Typo setup did save right at 10g per wheel/tire/foam, but when weighing other wheel/tire/foam combos, it wasn't always that much.

Here's what I just weighed, hopefully it'll help in conjunction with your weights, so people can have a better idea should they need the info:

Kyosho front wheel
Losi taper pin with red foam
42g
Kyosho front wheel
PL MC Suburb with red foam
52g
Kyosho front wheel
Rebar with red foam
48g
Kyosho front wheel
PL MC scrub with red foam
50g
Kyosho front wheel
Barcode with red foam
46g
Evo front wheel
Typo with red foam
42g
Kyosho rear wheel
Losi bk bar with red foam
66g
Kyosho rear wheel
Barcode with red foam
70g
Kyosho rear wheel
Rebar with red foam
66g
Kyosho rear wheel
PL MC Suburb with red foam
72g
Kyosho rear wheel
PL MC Suburb with stock foam
68g
Evo rear wheel
Typo (new) red foam
62g
Awesome. Thanks! Looks like the Proline are by far the heaviest tyres.
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Old 05-08-2014, 02:45 PM   #10371
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Nice setup,

For stock, I can see guys trying to shave every little gram they can. I don't think mod guys would need to go that far, though if they really wanted to, they easily could.
I must admit from a purely theoretical real world vehicle dynamics standpoint I don't see why you would ever benefit from being heavier; all other things being equal. Provided you setup the car correctly to suit. Maybe it's just an inertia / control / human response time issue. Without the human surely lighter would almost always be better. Or maybe it's an unsprung to sprung mass ratio issue that makes more sprung mass sometimes faster. Sorry don't want to start an off topic discussion in this thread. What weight / bias are most people running their RB6's and have you gone heavier / lighter and preffered one over the other?
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Old 05-08-2014, 05:01 PM   #10372
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Awesome. Thanks! Looks like the Proline are by far the heaviest tyres.
The ones I have used are, but with stock foams in the rear, they are a little more in line, though will react differently on the track.

When I first mounted up a set of the Evo/Typo's, I could instantly "feel" the weight difference in hand. Didn't know just how much, but was surprised by how much in the end.

The extra weight with some tire/wheel/foam combos could be a valuable turning aid in the right conditions.
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Old 05-08-2014, 05:30 PM   #10373
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Originally Posted by Zylux View Post
I must admit from a purely theoretical real world vehicle dynamics standpoint I don't see why you would ever benefit from being heavier; all other things being equal. Provided you setup the car correctly to suit. Maybe it's just an inertia / control / human response time issue. Without the human surely lighter would almost always be better. Or maybe it's an unsprung to sprung mass ratio issue that makes more sprung mass sometimes faster. Sorry don't want to start an off topic discussion in this thread. What weight / bias are most people running their RB6's and have you gone heavier / lighter and preffered one over the other?
For me,
I've always gone with the theory that you can be too light and be too heavy for a given set of conditions. Finding the balance you might need is probably the more important thing to find. A lighter car should be able to accelerate and brake faster (among other things), while a heavier car should feel a little more stable and possibly predictable, albeit, lazy feeling at times. Perhaps more of a driver issue/preference thing. Stock class racers probably find themselves being far more worried about weight than Mod class racers would be, which is not to say that it's no less important, just maybe not as noticeable to/for them. Sprung and unsprung weights probably for sure play a factor.

Weight bias? I haven't really checked what mine is or isn't. I have added weight to the rear and ran with out it. For me, I let the track determine if I have to have it or not. Now that I have the adjustable rear brass weights to play with, I'll probably play with the rear weight bias more often than I have.

I haven't really played with the over all weight, as far as being heavy or light. I've just ran the car in stock form, then shaved off a little weight here and there as I upgraded to some Ti stuff. Still run the stock drive lines and stock chassis. I did get my race weight down to 1535ish-1592ish, depending on my battery/tire/body choice (I run wrapped bodies, so they tend to be a fair amount of weight to them) and for the most part in mod, I can't say I like one better than the other. I'm sure the lighter car weight does work better, but I haven't really worried about it too much. With my 13.5 and 17.5 in there, I do think the lighter car is a little better for that class, but I know I'm not loosing in those classes simply because my car is heavier than other cars in the class.

What I did play with more than anything else was the weight placement in the car as far as the battery and Elec. items go. I've only ran shorty packs in the car. Started out in RM with the esc/batt/rx/servo (full size servo (back to front), then went to MM with the batt/esc/rx/servo (esc and rx side by side), ran it that way for a while and added a 1/2oz behind the battery to try and rebalance the car a little better (I run the Orion esc and it's a bit heavier than the Tekin's most guys I know use).

With the batt/esc/rx/servo setup, I got a lot of steering, almost too much. Both with the rear weight added and without, though with the weight behind the batt, the front weight was a little less and I had just a little less steering. I added in a set of the evo typos and the car did feel a lot lighter and the steering seemed faster feeling.

I ended up going with the esc/rx and cap on the sides/batt/ small gap to the servo setup and the front felt lighter, as it should have. On high bite tracks it's pretty good. I did add 10g to the rear bulkhead to try and get the rear to be a little more locked in when the grip wasn't as high. Still playing with that thought. Time will tell, but so far it's good enough for me. Might make more changes at some point.
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Old 05-08-2014, 06:24 PM   #10374
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Hey guys me and my buddy are buying back into the hobby and we are looking at the RB6 and serpent. Can someone shine some light on how well this buggy is on out door tracks low bite. and what parts do need upgraded to with stand the abuse?

scratch that found my answer about 100 pages back.
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Old 05-11-2014, 12:08 AM   #10375
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For me,
I'm sure the lighter car weight does work better, but I haven't really worried about it too much. With my 13.5 and 17.5 in there, I do think the lighter car is a little better for that class, but I know I'm not loosing in those classes simply because my car is heavier than other cars in the class.

With the batt/esc/rx/servo setup, I got a lot of steering, almost too much. Both with the rear weight added and without, though with the weight behind the batt, the front weight was a little less and I had just a little less steering. I added in a set of the evo typos and the car did feel a lot lighter and the steering seemed faster feeling.
Thanks for the reply mate.

Your reply helps confirm to me that absolute weight of the car doesn't make a hugely noticeable difference like perhaps type of tyres used and of course driver skill etc. I guess even if it isn't substantially noticeable however, it doesn't mean that it isn't better, even if only marginally or even un-noticeably. With this in mind I'll continue to make the car as good as theoretically possible even though my skills are nowhere near requiring that level of perfection; purely for the satisfaction of thinking I have made the car as good as it can be.

With this in mind, I just ordered the lightweight chassis and all of the Kyosho aluminium upgrade bits as well as a selection of springs and pistons (mainly blanks).

With the Evo wheels / Tyres, heavier servo and light wheel-nuts the car is sitting at 1501g at the moment so I figure that i'll have 25 or so grams to play with once I fit the lightweight chassis. In order to be able to adjust the weight bias a little further back I've machined up two brass masses; one 21g and one 30g.

The 21g weight increases the rear weight bias by approx. 0.7% and the 30g by approx. 1%.
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:52 AM   #10376
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I was wondering if anyone had a old manual I could buy off them
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:19 AM   #10377
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Originally Posted by Breeze View Post
I was wondering if anyone had a old manual I could buy off them
http://www.kyosho.com/eng/support/in...ggy_index.html

get it for free and then print it out, may be even take it to an office supply store, and for a little coin, they probably could print and staple it together. Just a thought.
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:23 AM   #10378
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I wanted to try to find a box manual first, there a little neater and the paper is a bit stronger
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:33 AM   #10379
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I wanted to try to find a box manual first, there a little neater and the paper is a bit stronger
Fair enough
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:12 PM   #10380
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Any of you guys running 64 pitch gearing?
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