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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-01-2014, 02:03 PM   #10336
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Jason, I just watched your video of the rb6 and the front doesn't look like it has any droop a lot of the setups ive seen have 20mm exposed shock length and use the med shock end if you don't have one of those it would explain the lack of rear traction iftis isn't the case I guess don't mind me
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Old 05-01-2014, 02:52 PM   #10337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blingy View Post
Jason, I just watched your video of the rb6 and the front doesn't look like it has any droop a lot of the setups ive seen have 20mm exposed shock length and use the med shock end if you don't have one of those it would explain the lack of rear traction iftis isn't the case I guess don't mind me
Good catch mike....at the time of the video i had the droop limited to 18.5 just playing around to see how much on power steering it would add!

My normal set up is 20mm front and 27mm rear...and when traction is up....this car is Super Dialed!
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Old 05-02-2014, 03:28 PM   #10338
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I race mod and is it worth going the lightweight body or just stick with the kit body?
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:33 PM   #10339
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Default RB6

I appreciate you sharing your experience. I agree the price is a little hard to swallow, but I got over it once I realized the quality of the parts that come in the kit. A lot of the parts seemed to be the hops ups (MP9 kit) you would be buying for Durango. Built went great and super confident that this Team is building quality and highly competitive cars. Just bought the MP9 TKI3 also.

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Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel View Post
I WAS in the same boat as you. I just replaced a fleet of Durangos DEX/DESC210 R/DESC410R. Team Durango makes fine products, overall I liked them but found the tuning to be a wee bit complicated -- maybe a bit over-engineered (for dirt), as some may say. Also the parts support at local track started to diminish after the Durango hype started to settle down.

First time RB6 hit the track I was on par with the DEX (after months of tuning). I was impressed so much, I bought the SC6. Same result. For now I believe Kyosho has the best out there for me… although the $$$ are hard to swallow.
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Old 05-04-2014, 03:38 AM   #10340
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Hey all,

I have just changed my RB6 to mid motor, after having a lot of success with rear mount but I needed more corner speed, after a track layout change.

The car is good almost every except in fast changes of direction, Chicane's, where it becomes unsettled and extremely easy to spin out.

Anyone have any advice on removing this? I went to a longer link, a higher rear roll center, and leaning the front shocks in on the tower, it helped a bit but still having trouble.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-04-2014, 08:28 AM   #10341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ufJmacca View Post
Hey all,

I have just changed my RB6 to mid motor, after having a lot of success with rear mount but I needed more corner speed, after a track layout change.

The car is good almost every except in fast changes of direction, Chicane's, where it becomes unsettled and extremely easy to spin out.

Anyone have any advice on removing this? I went to a longer link, a higher rear roll center, and leaning the front shocks in on the tower, it helped a bit but still having trouble.

Thanks in advance.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...CRC2014012426/
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:12 AM   #10342
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The Cody King setup is probably the best all around setup for most tracks. When you get into higher bite tracks it will change, but that's what I run with some minor changes. I've gone through what seems like 20 different setups and this one is by far the most comfortable to drive. I've converted a few guys at my track to that setup with my changes and they were a lot happier than before.
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:31 PM   #10343
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do you mean the 2014 reedy race set up ?
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:32 AM   #10344
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Thanks guys, I'll give it a crack and see how it goes!
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Old 05-05-2014, 03:15 AM   #10345
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Hi guys,

First post and first fortnight in the world of RC cars! I've never owned an RC car and I've just purchased and put together a Kyosho RB6; based in large part on info on this forum so thanks for steering me in the right direction.

As a total newbie I was really impressed with the kit and found it went together quick and easy.

Build; Tekin RS Gen2 ESC and Redline 17.5 motor, 12g wire, SMC 4600mAh shorty placed 1mm in front of motor, Avid Slipper Setup with 69T Spur & 32T Pinion, MIP Pucks system, Kyosho Ti Screw kit, alloy rack, alloy front axles, stock pistons Mugen 400cst front 350cst rear oil, pink/gold springs F/R, std servo, lightweight body, AKA Impact/Rebar F/R tyres. -1deg Camber, 1deg Toe out front, 23.5/22 F/R ride height. All other setting stock. Local track is medium grip outdoor clay / dirt.

Total weight 1504g, 37.7% front, 62.3% rear.

So far I love the car but only have 2 hours total time driving so no real value in my opinions. Just wanted to share! Cheers guys. Oh, can anyone recommend a more aggressive front tyre than the AKA Rebar (SS)? it doesn't seem to turn-in very quickly.
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Old 05-05-2014, 03:26 AM   #10346
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Zylux what type of surface are you racing it on?
I only ask as I run my RB6 with scrubs on the front and find them fine even on a medium grip track.

It maybe a simple change in a shim on the front ball studs and or front link adjustment

Nice paint job on it
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Old 05-05-2014, 03:48 AM   #10347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
Zylux what type of surface are you racing it on?
I only ask as I run my RB6 with scrubs on the front and find them fine even on a medium grip track.

It maybe a simple change in a shim on the front ball studs and or front link adjustment

Nice paint job on it
Thanks mate. I'll be running it on a hard-packed clay/dirt outdoor track which I'm told is medium (I have no reference) grip (Keilor in Victoria). I had AKA Vektor fronts on it when I first drove it and they felt much more aggressive, but it was my first drive and I didn't have the toe / camber set correctly so I destroyed the tyres in 3 packs. The other two times I was out it had rained and the track had dried out and had a surface covering of loose dust/dirt. I tried Rebar rears (soft) and they had zero grip. The AKA Evo Impacts (SS) had a HEAP more grip than the Rebars. The Rebar fronts didn't seem to like this surface much either and weren't turning in well but seemed to have decent grip mid corner (car seemed to be fairly neutral - not oversteering or understeering noticeably). Having said all that I'm still a terrible driver with my faster laps at about 34seconds compared with about 30-31s when looking at recent race-day results for this track. Are three-rib fronts any good?
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Old 05-05-2014, 05:16 AM   #10348
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I haven’t raced at Keilor since they last had the state titles and I cannot remember what I ran back then not that that would help sorry.

What do the local guys use there for club meetings?
I know at our track here in Adelaide when it got dusty and loose I ran hole shots and they did the trick but that was a really bad track and sometimes they could be a little “grabby”

Maybe give the ribs a try, personally I am not a big fan of ribs but that’s just me.
Sorry I can’t be much more help
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:53 AM   #10349
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Any recommendations for a wing.
I was thinking of the Losi 7" precut

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...wnforce-Wing-2
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:50 PM   #10350
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Hey, just picked up a nicely used RB6 in mid motor config but my local track is not a high bite outdoor facility. Does anyone have a suggestion for rear motor set-up or mid-motor in low bite? Thanks
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