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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-13-2014, 10:00 PM   #10276
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Kyosho diff with MIP pick system.

I'm a 17.5 racer and currently have the MIp puck system in my Rb6. The kyosho diff is WAY better than the MIP (feels like aslowciated) and want to know if you have experience with the kyosho balls/rings/thrust in the MIP puck system?
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:10 AM   #10277
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So I finally got around to giving my Mid Mount a run on our local club track (not in a racing conditions so no timing)
I can see the potential in the MM working on it. I did make some adjustments while trying it and the car felt better as I did them.

It will be something I slowly work on but for now the RM still feels the best for me.
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:14 AM   #10278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuddyLee303 View Post
What exactly are the spacers under the rear toe block doing? Is that reducing the anti-squat angle therefore reducing anti-squat? Is there a natural anti-squat built in if there are no spacers present? It looks like the inserts in the a aftermarket hangers could possibly slightly adjust the rear arm angle mismatch at the case?

Also what is the easiest way to gain side bite in mid motor other than adjusting anti-squat?

Thanks in advance.
Yes the shims for the rear blocks change anti squat. I think no shims under the rear block (none under the rear front block as well) gives the car 2 degrees of anti squat, which is the most you'll get unless you add shims to the rear front block.

Easiest way for a gain in side bite in MM?
Not sure if outside of an anti squat change, if there is one way that's easiest over another.
You could try changing the rear toe in, or changing the camber, or changing the rear camber link for more or less camber gain.

For me I usually run less rear toe in. I normally run on a high bite indoor track, where 3 degree of rear toe in might be too much, so I'll run 2-2.5 for rear toe in. Works for me while leaving the rest of the rear end setup as I'd normally run it.
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:09 AM   #10279
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Easy to drive mm setup...
Front shocks 1.5/2 tapered 32.5 20mm shock length
White spring camber center on bulkhead 1mm up both sides
Shocks middle top outside on arm
25/2
Rear shocks 1.5/2 tapered 27.5 27mm shock length
White/gold spring second from inside on tower outside on arm
Rear hangers I run D in/D out with .5 degree rear hubs
Rear link outside on rear bulkhead very inside on hub
1 mm up on the inside n 2 mm up on the hub
Arms centered and hubs forward 24mm ride height front/rear
Give it a try has plenty of steering can be a touch aggressive.
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Last edited by Gitsum; 04-17-2014 at 09:29 AM. Reason: Rear hanger is d in/ d out sorry
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:09 AM   #10280
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Double post...
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:27 PM   #10281
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I got to sit down and interview Joe Pillars team manager. We finally got to talk about worlds with Tebo. http://www.thebigrc.com/?p=5564

Thought it might be of interest to you guys.
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:10 PM   #10282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
Easy to drive mm setup...
Front shocks 1.5/2 tapered 32.5 20mm shock length
White spring camber center on bulkhead 1mm up both sides
Shocks middle top outside on arm
25/2
Rear shocks 1.5/2 tapered 27.5 27mm shock length
White/gold spring second from inside on tower outside on arm
Rear hangers I run D out/D out with .5 degree rear hubs
Rear link outside on rear bulkhead very inside on hub
1 mm up on the inside n 2 mm up on the hub
Arms centered and hubs forward 24mm ride height front/rear
Give it a try has plenty of steering can be a touch aggressive.
What surface do you use that set up on?
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:04 PM   #10283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
Easy to drive mm setup...
Front shocks 1.5/2 tapered 32.5 20mm shock length
White spring camber center on bulkhead 1mm up both sides
Shocks middle top outside on arm
25/2
Rear shocks 1.5/2 tapered 27.5 27mm shock length
White/gold spring second from inside on tower outside on arm
Rear hangers I run D out/D out with .5 degree rear hubs
Rear link outside on rear bulkhead very inside on hub
1 mm up on the inside n 2 mm up on the hub
Arms centered and hubs forward 24mm ride height front/rear
Give it a try has plenty of steering can be a touch aggressive.
Tbh that is way off on a normal set up.
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Old 04-15-2014, 02:32 AM   #10284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
What surface do you use that set up on?
It's a dirt clay mix tires are usually green barcodes, m4 ions or ss slingshots. Track is warehouse 3 search it on YouTube or goto w3racing. C o m. I believe there are videos there of the track.
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Old 04-15-2014, 02:36 AM   #10285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holmberg418 View Post
Tbh that is way off on a normal set up.
What is a normal setup? It has worked well for me try it you might like it.
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Old 04-15-2014, 07:12 AM   #10286
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I agree that it is completely different than what we have. Not that you might not found a golden secret but it is way different that what we run and see other run around here on medium high to high bite. The key though is finding what works for you. Never will one setup be for all.
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Old 04-15-2014, 12:41 PM   #10287
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In preparation for the SC6 coming in the near future I am trying to find a base setup for it -- nothing out there as of yet.

I am using the Cody King MM setup on my RB6 and it was solid out of the gate. Since the SC6 is essentially the same platform would it be wise to start with the same MM setup?
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:29 PM   #10288
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Hi All,

Slipper eliminators are in stock!

http://www.exotekracing.com/
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-dsc_0742.jpg  
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:11 PM   #10289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
Kyosho diff with MIP pick system.

I'm a 17.5 racer and currently have the MIp puck system in my Rb6. The kyosho diff is WAY better than the MIP (feels like aslowciated) and want to know if you have experience with the kyosho balls/rings/thrust in the MIP puck system?
Quick update, the kyosho rings do not fit, you have to use the MIP rings with these outdrives. I miss my Kyosho ball diff........
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:23 AM   #10290
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
Quick update, the kyosho rings do not fit, you have to use the MIP rings with these outdrives. I miss my Kyosho ball diff........
I used the bfast kit (balls and thrust) to rebuild my pucks and it seems to be way smoother than the stock MIP kit stuff. Its almost as good as the bfast on the stock kyosho stuff. I did sand my rings flat on a piece of glass with a wet sandpaper stuck to it and the ring on the female outdrive.

The pucks is a must have for me. I do not miss replacing the driveshafts every month (with the stock Kyosho drivetrain with had flat spots fast).
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