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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-08-2014, 03:37 AM   #10261
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Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel View Post
Coming from a DEX210 that I just couldn't get along with, I built my first Kyosho in Mid Motor. I am the only one at my local track with a Kyosho buggy. The fellow races stared with envy, as others claimed mid motor at our indoor medium traction clay track would NEVER work as well. 99 percent run B4/B5 and 22, those seem to get a lot of attention. I'm actually ok being the only K driver yet alone only mid motor in the field dominated by popular RM setups.

Building this thing wasn't on the easy side without lots of internet help… THANKS EVERYONE on this forum. I used the Cody King setup with a few tweaks. No additional weight and battery in the middle position with 3.5 degree rear toe. After 1st lap I knew it had better feel than my DEX210. It turns more aggressively and jumps flatter just like other initial impressions. One thing I noticed is how much quicker it reacts when the buggy gets loose from improper corner entry. I run the Gold springs front and rear as we have lots of jumps, large and small. I also put the chassis protector on, as the rear of the chassis in mid motor takes a fair bit of abuse, this thing does slap -- 23-24mm ride height.

All in all I'm pleased and despite what others think I am staying MM. I don't know if it's the buggy itself or just a day where I was "on" but I managed to pick up a lap and my consistency has improved. My friend noticed trackside that my buggy was the only one that seemed smooth. He felt the competition looked like they were hanging on too much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I, like you am the only Kyosho as well. We run on a low traction bumpy track and this past weekend we had our season opener. I was the only MM on the field and I started 2nd in the A Main and finished 2nd. Im usually bottom of the A Main sometimes B Main. Im running Tebo's Reedy Race Setup
With these two posts it has made me even more eager to get to the track and try the MM set up
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Old 04-08-2014, 03:51 AM   #10262
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Hey guys do all if the rb5 hingepins fit on the rb6?? Just looking at stocking up on a few parts, havnt broke anything yet but on my track its rare to crash hard. Any info would be great. Thanks
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Old 04-08-2014, 04:51 AM   #10263
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Originally Posted by FallenAllDay View Post
Hey guys do all if the rb5 hingepins fit on the rb6?? Just looking at stocking up on a few parts, havnt broke anything yet but on my track its rare to crash hard. Any info would be great. Thanks
Same part numbers on both exploded views (that's if I'm looking at the right parts )
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Old 04-08-2014, 04:56 AM   #10264
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Originally Posted by FallenAllDay View Post
Hey guys do all if the rb5 hingepins fit on the rb6?? Just looking at stocking up on a few parts, havnt broke anything yet but on my track its rare to crash hard. Any info would be great. Thanks
Yes when I had my rb6 in a freak wreck I snapped a hinge pin and hobby shop had rb5 ones and they fit no problem.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:54 AM   #10265
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If you are going to upgrade to lunsford pins get the SC-R set.
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:36 AM   #10266
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Originally Posted by 1967rs View Post
If you are going to upgrade to lunsford pins get the SC-R set.
They bend like butter for the inner hinge pin applications. For outers the titanium has been holding fine in my stock buggy.
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Old 04-09-2014, 10:35 AM   #10267
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This is a great buggy but I'm stuggling to get forward bite......

I'm in RM gonna try moving shorty which is forward back, maybe add some ballast under shock tower, currently no shims under RF2 blocks maybe add .5mm to the front.....I like a car that will at least pull the front wheels a couple inches on our medium/high bite surface.....the other RM cars dont have a problem making this happen....

other than that do you guys do you guys tend to favor higher or lower roll centers?

Thanks,
Jason
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:31 AM   #10268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Snyder View Post
This is a great buggy but I'm stuggling to get forward bite......

I'm in RM gonna try moving shorty which is forward back, maybe add some ballast under shock tower, currently no shims under RF2 blocks maybe add .5mm to the front.....I like a car that will at least pull the front wheels a couple inches on our medium/high bite surface.....the other RM cars dont have a problem making this happen....

other than that do you guys do you guys tend to favor higher or lower roll centers?

Thanks,
Jason
Its all setup I could get her to wheelie in 17.5. Are you running stock springs (red) or golds? If so I would start with the japan setup. I have the tebo RM setup on her (flat arms rb5 front axles and white rear springs) and its stuck in RM.

Also easiest would be to remove the sideguard screws, that flexes a lot and gull wing arms for the rear (stock). I also sometime run a cut rear shock tower brace (the thing with 3 pillars which is on chassis and the rear bulkhead mounts to). I have 2 pillars on mine for more flex. All this is drastic, I would just start with the Japan setup.
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:19 PM   #10269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Its all setup I could get her to wheelie in 17.5. Are you running stock springs (red) or golds? If so I would start with the japan setup. I have the tebo RM setup on her (flat arms rb5 front axles and white rear springs) and its stuck in RM.

Also easiest would be to remove the sideguard screws, that flexes a lot and gull wing arms for the rear (stock). I also sometime run a cut rear shock tower brace (the thing with 3 pillars which is on chassis and the rear bulkhead mounts to). I have 2 pillars on mine for more flex. All this is drastic, I would just start with the Japan setup.
ok thanks
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:58 PM   #10270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Snyder View Post
This is a great buggy but I'm stuggling to get forward bite......

I'm in RM gonna try moving shorty which is forward back, maybe add some ballast under shock tower, currently no shims under RF2 blocks maybe add .5mm to the front.....I like a car that will at least pull the front wheels a couple inches on our medium/high bite surface.....the other RM cars dont have a problem making this happen....

other than that do you guys do you guys tend to favor higher or lower roll centers?

Thanks,
Jason
Jason, Wide rear toe blocks kill the handling of this car, at least in my opinion. Narrow up the rear end and you'll see a significant change in handling and forward bit. I'm running my buggy in MM and have a 1mm spacer under the rear toe block (nothing between the toe block and the rear bulk head) and I have ZERO problems with forward bit at Trackside. It's worth a shot. I'm running the adjustable toe blocks now at c in/c in which is fairly close to the old rf blocks (if I remember correctly).
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Old 04-09-2014, 09:53 PM   #10271
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Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
Jason, Wide rear toe blocks kill the handling of this car, at least in my opinion. Narrow up the rear end and you'll see a significant change in handling and forward bit. I'm running my buggy in MM and have a 1mm spacer under the rear toe block (nothing between the toe block and the rear bulk head) and I have ZERO problems with forward bit at Trackside. It's worth a shot. I'm running the adjustable toe blocks now at c in/c in which is fairly close to the old rf blocks (if I remember correctly).
thanks chris.I'll play around with the rear end a bit
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Old 04-12-2014, 10:37 AM   #10272
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Which tor blocks in the kit are the narrow one thr rf or rf2?
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Old 04-12-2014, 10:59 AM   #10273
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Both

rf are narrow.
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Old 04-13-2014, 09:08 PM   #10274
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If anyone want to get rid of a rb6, I have a dex410v3 with upgrades and crap load of parts to trade for. If so, PM me
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Old 04-13-2014, 09:38 PM   #10275
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Default Spacers under toe block

Quote:
Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
Jason, Wide rear toe blocks kill the handling of this car, at least in my opinion. Narrow up the rear end and you'll see a significant change in handling and forward bit. I'm running my buggy in MM and have a 1mm spacer under the rear toe block (nothing between the toe block and the rear bulk head) and I have ZERO problems with forward bit at Trackside. It's worth a shot. I'm running the adjustable toe blocks now at c in/c in which is fairly close to the old rf blocks (if I remember correctly).
What exactly are the spacers under the rear toe block doing? Is that reducing the anti-squat angle therefore reducing anti-squat? Is there a natural anti-squat built in if there are no spacers present? It looks like the inserts in the a aftermarket hangers could possibly slightly adjust the rear arm angle mismatch at the case?

Also what is the easiest way to gain side bite in mid motor other than adjusting anti-squat?

Thanks in advance.
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