Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Well I ran the rb6mm last night for the first time and all I can say is wow it steers like no other and has lots of traction out of the corners . the set up I have on it is Fr:stock pistons and springs w/32.5 and the c/l in #3 w/1mm spacer . RR: stock pistons and springsand standard locations with the arm spaced forward and hubs in the middle and c/l w/1mm on hub and tower . I ran the ride height at 24 mm and a saddle pack against the motor waterfall and the speed control between the servo and battery . awesome car
Tech Elite
iTrader: (141)
Non cab forward body?
Not a big fan of cab forward bodies.
Does anyone make a normal body for the rb6?
Does anyone make a normal body for the rb6?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (68)
anyone need a brand new built RB6 never run? PM Me
First race with my rb6 today, running rm on a big loose outdoor track, never ran 2wd buggy before and won the race by over a lap!! Cars so smooth, jumps like a dream and has all the steering i wanted. Best freaking car cant wait to drive more
Tech Master
iTrader: (85)
Yeah buddy,this car is a beast in rear motor. I just haven't had a chance to try it in mid,just need a track around here with enough traction first.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Mm still works fine on even low traction tracks don't hesitate to try it.
Tech Master
iTrader: (56)
First time RB6 build
Build went pretty good. I'm impressed with the quality and tolerances of parts. Can't wait to hit the track this weekend.
Need help with a couple of things.
After re-reading the manual after my build I noticed that I MAY not have set the rounded edge of the differential plates facing the balls. I did sand the diff plates as I always do with every diff build. If the rounded edge of the plates aren't facing each other will this degrade performance in any way?
The upper plastic ball / eyelets for the shock caps have a fair bit of slop in them. Is this normal? Bottom ones seem fine and fits well.
In MM Mid-motor configuration the bottom of the rear shocks only mount to 1 hole location. Shouldn't there be more locations? Are my arms backwards?
Need help with a couple of things.
After re-reading the manual after my build I noticed that I MAY not have set the rounded edge of the differential plates facing the balls. I did sand the diff plates as I always do with every diff build. If the rounded edge of the plates aren't facing each other will this degrade performance in any way?
The upper plastic ball / eyelets for the shock caps have a fair bit of slop in them. Is this normal? Bottom ones seem fine and fits well.
In MM Mid-motor configuration the bottom of the rear shocks only mount to 1 hole location. Shouldn't there be more locations? Are my arms backwards?
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
After re-reading the manual after my build I noticed that I MAY not have set the rounded edge of the differential plates facing the balls. I did sand the diff plates as I always do with every diff build. If the rounded edge of the plates aren't facing each other will this degrade performance in any way?
The upper plastic ball / eyelets for the shock caps have a fair bit of slop in them. Is this normal? Bottom ones seem fine and fits well.
Shouldn't there be more locations? Are my arms backwards?
The upper plastic ball / eyelets for the shock caps have a fair bit of slop in them. Is this normal? Bottom ones seem fine and fits well.
Shouldn't there be more locations? Are my arms backwards?
Upper shock caps always feel there's some slop, don't over tighten as you dint want it to bind.
Your rear arm is in the middle location per setup sheets. If you want to use inner or outer, you would have to reverse your a-arms.
Many people turn the Kyosho rings after some time. I've driven other diffs and love the Kyosho rings as it feels it last for months.
Upper shock caps always feel there's some slop, don't over tighten as you dint want it to bind.
Your rear arm is in the middle location per setup sheets. If you want to use inner or outer, you would have to reverse your a-arms.
Upper shock caps always feel there's some slop, don't over tighten as you dint want it to bind.
Your rear arm is in the middle location per setup sheets. If you want to use inner or outer, you would have to reverse your a-arms.
But our racers here have to use sweep square amour Tyres for the rear as it's controlled, sweep Tyres are great but for mm setup, after about 50% usage, I will lose rear traction, still drivable but not great.
As for RM, we can drain down the Tyres more.
Cheers!
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
Have fun with your new ride.
Anyone have a good starting point for mm with a saddle on a med traction track . also I've heard that the lighter the better the car works can anyone elaborate on this plz . thnx
Chassis screws
Will the removal of chassis screws, especially in MM (2 bottom of motor guard) to gain more traction also increase the likelihood of the chassis bending?
Tech Rookie
Ran my rb6 tonight and picked up a second over my fastest lap ever..I am a novice tho, But this thing drives like butter and jumps so flat..My previous buggy was a MMsrx2 serpent.. Traded it for this when I broke the chassis in half from hitting a pole.. I think I got the better end of the deal..