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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-29-2014, 10:12 AM   #10231
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Well I ran the rb6mm last night for the first time and all I can say is wow it steers like no other and has lots of traction out of the corners . the set up I have on it is Fr:stock pistons and springs w/32.5 and the c/l in #3 w/1mm spacer . RR: stock pistons and springsand standard locations with the arm spaced forward and hubs in the middle and c/l w/1mm on hub and tower . I ran the ride height at 24 mm and a saddle pack against the motor waterfall and the speed control between the servo and battery . awesome car
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Old 03-29-2014, 08:08 PM   #10232
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Default Non cab forward body?

Not a big fan of cab forward bodies.

Does anyone make a normal body for the rb6?
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:48 PM   #10233
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anyone need a brand new built RB6 never run? PM Me
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:41 AM   #10234
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First race with my rb6 today, running rm on a big loose outdoor track, never ran 2wd buggy before and won the race by over a lap!! Cars so smooth, jumps like a dream and has all the steering i wanted. Best freaking car cant wait to drive more
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:59 AM   #10235
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Yeah buddy,this car is a beast in rear motor. I just haven't had a chance to try it in mid,just need a track around here with enough traction first.
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Old 03-30-2014, 11:09 AM   #10236
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Mm still works fine on even low traction tracks don't hesitate to try it.
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Old 03-30-2014, 02:56 PM   #10237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hacker View Post
Not a big fan of cab forward bodies.

Does anyone make a normal body for the rb6?
The TAMIYA 201XR/XM body fits the car perfect and is not cab forward.
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:12 AM   #10238
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Default First time RB6 build

Build went pretty good. I'm impressed with the quality and tolerances of parts. Can't wait to hit the track this weekend.

Need help with a couple of things.

After re-reading the manual after my build I noticed that I MAY not have set the rounded edge of the differential plates facing the balls. I did sand the diff plates as I always do with every diff build. If the rounded edge of the plates aren't facing each other will this degrade performance in any way?

The upper plastic ball / eyelets for the shock caps have a fair bit of slop in them. Is this normal? Bottom ones seem fine and fits well.

In MM Mid-motor configuration the bottom of the rear shocks only mount to 1 hole location. Shouldn't there be more locations? Are my arms backwards?
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:44 AM   #10239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel View Post
After re-reading the manual after my build I noticed that I MAY not have set the rounded edge of the differential plates facing the balls. I did sand the diff plates as I always do with every diff build. If the rounded edge of the plates aren't facing each other will this degrade performance in any way?

The upper plastic ball / eyelets for the shock caps have a fair bit of slop in them. Is this normal? Bottom ones seem fine and fits well.

Shouldn't there be more locations? Are my arms backwards?
Many people turn the Kyosho rings after some time. I've driven other diffs and love the Kyosho rings as it feels it last for months.

Upper shock caps always feel there's some slop, don't over tighten as you dint want it to bind.

Your rear arm is in the middle location per setup sheets. If you want to use inner or outer, you would have to reverse your a-arms.
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:50 AM   #10240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
Many people turn the Kyosho rings after some time. I've driven other diffs and love the Kyosho rings as it feels it last for months.

Upper shock caps always feel there's some slop, don't over tighten as you dint want it to bind.

Your rear arm is in the middle location per setup sheets. If you want to use inner or outer, you would have to reverse your a-arms.
Thanks for the reply Kuya. So it seems I didn't mess this build up : ) I wish the manual could've been on par with the car itself… I suppose it could be worse.
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:24 PM   #10241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
Mm still works fine on even low traction tracks don't hesitate to try it.
Totally agree, won 2 club meets on her with MM SETUP, No weights add on to her at all, all I did was to change piston and play around shock WTs to get the correct feel and land on receiving nicely.

But our racers here have to use sweep square amour Tyres for the rear as it's controlled, sweep Tyres are great but for mm setup, after about 50% usage, I will lose rear traction, still drivable but not great.

As for RM, we can drain down the Tyres more.

Cheers!
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:30 PM   #10242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel View Post
Thanks for the reply Kuya. So it seems I didn't mess this build up : ) I wish the manual could've been on par with the car itself… I suppose it could be worse.
I hear that, It's as if the manual was made in Japan then translated later.

Have fun with your new ride.
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:24 AM   #10243
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Anyone have a good starting point for mm with a saddle on a med traction track . also I've heard that the lighter the better the car works can anyone elaborate on this plz . thnx
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:28 AM   #10244
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Default Chassis screws

Will the removal of chassis screws, especially in MM (2 bottom of motor guard) to gain more traction also increase the likelihood of the chassis bending?
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:34 PM   #10245
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Ran my rb6 tonight and picked up a second over my fastest lap ever..I am a novice tho, But this thing drives like butter and jumps so flat..My previous buggy was a MMsrx2 serpent.. Traded it for this when I broke the chassis in half from hitting a pole.. I think I got the better end of the deal..
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