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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-19-2014, 11:41 PM   #10171
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Quote:
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is that running with the stock gears in the diff, or the pricy upgrade steel ones?
Stock gears 3k. It's money.
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:29 AM   #10172
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You guys running stock, do youse all just run your slippers tight? Ive got no idea how to set it otherwise. I figured the wheel lifting technique where you pin it down would work, but found out only mod motors have enough power to lift the wheels. Thanks for any help.
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:11 AM   #10173
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Loose as you feel comfortable, without burning off excess power. Even in a slower class like stock, the drivetrain is still subjected to large impacts, and the slipper should still be able to slip when these occur, rather than the diff slipping or out drives wearing excessively.
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:45 AM   #10174
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Originally Posted by FallenAllDay View Post
You guys running stock, do youse all just run your slippers tight? Ive got no idea how to set it otherwise. I figured the wheel lifting technique where you pin it down would work, but found out only mod motors have enough power to lift the wheels. Thanks for any help.
My trinity D3.5 will lift the wheels but it really depends on gearing.

Set the slipper so it doesn't slip, that clicking cogging noise. Then loosen a teeny bit at a time until it slips. This give you minimal slip and good to go. Make sure your diff is tight and won't slip when you do this.
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:13 PM   #10175
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Anyone try using associated big bore springs or losi? My Lhs doesn't stock any kyosho stuff
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:48 PM   #10176
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I'm looking to do some testing with Avid machined shock pistons. Has anyone done any testing with these pistons? I am looking for a starting point. I am currently running my RB6 in mid motor with stock pistons. 37.5 Losi oil front with pink springs. 30 Losi oil rear with gold springs. Thanks for any advice!
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:52 PM   #10177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jspires688 View Post
Anyone try using associated big bore springs or losi? My Lhs doesn't stock any kyosho stuff
the ae springs seem to big. I have lost 3 shock retainers using them.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:14 PM   #10178
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Holmberg that sucks I was hoping to be able to use them. I am running rear motor and the b5s are hanldeling a little better for everyone on my home track
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:55 PM   #10179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jspires688 View Post
Anyone try using associated big bore springs or losi? My Lhs doesn't stock any kyosho stuff
am running TLR springs front and rear, Front should be pink and rear white.
Pistons are Avid 1.1x1.6 holes front and rear, using TLR weight 32.5 and 30 rear
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Old 03-21-2014, 05:56 PM   #10180
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Trident are they 4 ole pistons?
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Old 03-21-2014, 11:15 PM   #10181
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Got my new orion r10 stock esc wired up. Very happy with how it turned out.
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:31 AM   #10182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jspires688 View Post
Trident are they 4 ole pistons?
Yes sir they are.. Avids 4 holes pistons 2 are 1x1 and the other 2 holes are 1x6
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:35 AM   #10183
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Good deal trident my car has 4 hole pistons but I'm not sure what they are as I bought it used but I looked and have those losi springs in my box already so I will try them what's your ride height set at?
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Old 03-22-2014, 05:54 PM   #10184
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quick gearing question, i bought my RB6 used and it had a 78 pinion on there from associated along with the high friction pads(yellowish). The RB6 mod suggestion is 22/76. I like the way associated slippers are and was wondering what would give me the closest feel to 22/76, go 25/75 or 21/78 maybe 20/78? with 22/78 my car seems to lack the jumpiness that most mod cars have, to me my car feels a little lethargic, but has great top end, if our track had longer straight a way, i would have a lot more trigger that could be utilized so i feel im a little over geard.
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Old 03-22-2014, 08:48 PM   #10185
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What turn motor?
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