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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-09-2014, 05:00 PM   #10066
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Originally Posted by Graham11 View Post
Hey guys, have any rb6 owners come from the b4.2/c4.2 platform and can give a short comparison. I currently run c4.2 and deciding between rb6 or b5 and b5m
I have a B4.2 had a C4.2 and was going to buy the B5. The B4.2 to C4.2 was a big difference because we are comparing mid to rear. I prefer mid. But comparing the C4.2 to the RB6 is harder because they are both mid motor and perform very well. So much of this has to do with tuning and setup but my experience was the RB6 is way more stable and easy to drive then the C4.2. Both are fast and mid in either car is faster then my b4.2. The C4.2 took a little test and tuning to get it running well. The RB6 was great the 2nd day i hit the track with it. Found a good setup much faster.
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Old 03-09-2014, 05:12 PM   #10067
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Does anyone know of pin replacement tool and replacement pins for the RB6?
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Old 03-09-2014, 05:19 PM   #10068
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Originally Posted by codeman View Post
Does anyone know of pin replacement tool and replacement pins for the RB6?
what pins? the ones in the bones?
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Old 03-09-2014, 05:37 PM   #10069
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Originally Posted by chevmaro View Post
I have a B4.2 had a C4.2 and was going to buy the B5. The B4.2 to C4.2 was a big difference because we are comparing mid to rear. I prefer mid. But comparing the C4.2 to the RB6 is harder because they are both mid motor and perform very well. So much of this has to do with tuning and setup but my experience was the RB6 is way more stable and easy to drive then the C4.2. Both are fast and mid in either car is faster then my b4.2. The C4.2 took a little test and tuning to get it running well. The RB6 was great the 2nd day i hit the track with it. Found a good setup much faster.
So you bought an rb6 instead of the b5? I love my c4.2 but I don't wanna be stuck with no parts support so it's either rb6 or b5 and b5m basically same price.
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Old 03-09-2014, 05:42 PM   #10070
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Originally Posted by Jspires688 View Post
Setup is
Pink springs front red rear
Front camber link 1mm washer inside 1mm outside inside middle hole
Steering reversed with 1 mm washer inside none outside
Rear camber link inside middle with 2mm washer outside outside hole 1mm washer
Ride hieght started out 23f 22r but I raised the rear a few turns throughout the night to help with the push. Hope that's not to confusing
Well I have had a little time with the car setup with rear but not a lot. To me it sounds like you have to much weight transferring to the back when accelerating.
  1. Some things that I would look at is raise the rear ride height to be the same as the front.
  2. The next thing is I would measure the length of the front shock shafts when fully extended. If you can shorten this it would reduce the amount of lift it has on acceleration.
  3. You could also move your rear hubs back as this will reduce how far the motor is hanging back behind the motor.
  4. The other thing you could try is playing with anti-squat. I believe you could add a shim underneath the front suspension mount in the rear.

This will give you a list of things to try and I am sure others will either chime in or contradict what I have said above. At least you have some ideas on what to try. Good luck!
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Old 03-09-2014, 06:41 PM   #10071
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Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
I dont think the RB6 will do well at all in a loose outdoor setting. Our track when good is a solid medium grip track, sometimes might push a semi high grip track, but when its dry its miserable to drive, youd have to put so much weight in the back it wouldnt even be worth it. my car drives really well when we have a good water schedule but when we are at the tail end of the heats i might as well pull it off the track, i lose easily a lap and a half.
is it side bite or forward bit that you are having an issue with. I found out some interesting things this last weekend and it really made my car easier to drive and easier to drive fast. Our track is black dirt that gets dry and really slick at times but never enough to pulll of the track. Definitely not enough to be a lap down.

Weight is a big issue with all mid motors. I'm at about 1635 right now. The AE guys at my track that are running the new b5M are around 1680. For us, it seems like more weight equals more grip. The cars suspension can handle the extra weight with ease and since grip goes up, the lap times are going down.
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Old 03-09-2014, 06:48 PM   #10072
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Awesome kraig thanks for the reply
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Old 03-09-2014, 07:38 PM   #10073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePanda View Post
what pins? the ones in the bones?
You got it. Sorry should've clarified
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Old 03-09-2014, 07:57 PM   #10074
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I'm looking at messing around with the rear anti squat and just wondering should I add 0.5mm shim to the RF hanger or take the 0.5mm shim out front the RR hanger?

Just wondering if either way is no different or the different ways has a slight difference. not that I am thinking it would but thought I would ask just in case
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Old 03-09-2014, 08:06 PM   #10075
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Originally Posted by Jspires688 View Post
Hey guys I just raced my rb6 for the first time last night and loved won a heat and qualified 2nd. Now I am running rear motor and the rear is locked but has a on power push. I am wondering if mid motor would be better what's everyone's opinion with this car?
I fixed my on power push by adding some antisquat, the RR hanger should have a 1mm spacer between it and the motor guard, you can swap it for a .5 mm spacer or remove it for more antisquat. Gold rear springs could also cure it, I have pink front and gold rear on my rear motor car.
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Old 03-09-2014, 08:09 PM   #10076
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You got it. Sorry should've clarified
i think you have to just buy new bones. hudy had a tool, but i don't think it works on this.
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Old 03-09-2014, 08:13 PM   #10077
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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
I'm looking at messing around with the rear anti squat and just wondering should I add 0.5mm shim to the RF hanger or take the 0.5mm shim out front the RR hanger?

Just wondering if either way is no different or the different ways has a slight difference. not that I am thinking it would but thought I would ask just in case
I have to ask first, rear motor or mid motor?
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Old 03-09-2014, 08:15 PM   #10078
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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
I'm looking at messing around with the rear anti squat and just wondering should I add 0.5mm shim to the RF hanger or take the 0.5mm shim out front the RR hanger?

Just wondering if either way is no different or the different ways has a slight difference. not that I am thinking it would but thought I would ask just in case
It is easier to do the rear but they will have the same effect. Just remember that on a mid motor car that whatever you take out from under the hanger you need to add between the hanger and the rear bulkhead to keep the shock tower the same height.
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Old 03-09-2014, 10:24 PM   #10079
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Sorry guys forgot to say rear mount
I'm running the kit set up with 0.5mm shim.
I am looking for a bit more forward bite and better jumping so will start with increasing the anti squat

I agree with 1967rs gold rear springs are great.
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:47 AM   #10080
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Read somewhere in this thread that the 6 can use AE spurs, is it true guys? I just want to confirm before i go get one. And I'm looking for more torque, what spur and pinion size do i go for?
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