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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-25-2014, 05:46 PM   #9976
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For mid motor is anyone running alum exotek or yalba racing rear bulkhead or just stock with weight kit or both? For mid motor is the weight kit needed? Running 17.5 blinky with avid slipper set up. Thought about getting the pucks system but don't really want to drop the $75 quite yet. Think I'll wait till I need to replace then buy it. But I'm thinking about trying mm and I would like more off power steering. I know I need to order the rf and rr alum kyosho hangars just seeing if the alum rear bulkhead and or weight kit is needed as I hear the stock mm bulkhead tends to break. As well as if I buy alum bulkhead it's 17g would I still want to add more weights with weight kit? Thanks in advance
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:47 PM   #9977
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Originally Posted by Jspires688 View Post
Hi guys I'm wanting some advice I have tried running the buggy class with a b4.1 worlds car and just can't seem to get it to hanle the way I like it. I have always raced a sc10 and like the way I am able to push it. So I guess what I'm asking is is the rb6 worth the money I have watched others run them and they always look so smooth. On the first page of this thread it says they may be hard for beginners to drive why is this?
I picked up a T4.2 to run before the RT6 came out and I loved the T4.2 so much I bought a B4.2 even though I had a RB6. I hated the B4.2 so much I sold it a week after getting it. For me and my driving style the RB6 is a far better car and worth the cost.
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:53 PM   #9978
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Originally Posted by socal23 View Post
For mid motor is anyone running alum exotek or yalba racing rear bulkhead or just stock with weight kit or both? For mid motor is the weight kit needed? Running 17.5 blinky with avid slipper set up. Thought about getting the pucks system but don't really want to drop the $75 quite yet. Think I'll wait till I need to replace then buy it. But I'm thinking about trying mm and I would like more off power steering. I know I need to order the rf and rr alum kyosho hangars just seeing if the alum rear bulkhead and or weight kit is needed as I hear the stock mm bulkhead tends to break. As well as if I buy alum bulkhead it's 17g would I still want to add more weights with weight kit? Thanks in advance
It really depends on the surface you are running on, if the bite is medium you will likely need some extra weight in the rear. The exotek rear bulkhead I have will not except the weight kit, so when I added the light weight chassis I went with the plastic bulkhead that has the mounting holes for the weight kit.
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:15 PM   #9979
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When you say for your driving style what would you say you style is? Thanks for the reply
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:11 PM   #9980
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Originally Posted by socal23 View Post
For mid motor is anyone running alum exotek or yalba racing rear bulkhead or just stock with weight kit or both? For mid motor is the weight kit needed? Running 17.5 blinky with avid slipper set up. Thought about getting the pucks system but don't really want to drop the $75 quite yet. Think I'll wait till I need to replace then buy it. But I'm thinking about trying mm and I would like more off power steering. I know I need to order the rf and rr alum kyosho hangars just seeing if the alum rear bulkhead and or weight kit is needed as I hear the stock mm bulkhead tends to break. As well as if I buy alum bulkhead it's 17g would I still want to add more weights with weight kit? Thanks in advance
Have or do you run at coyote hobbies in Victorville? I ran there this last weekend and had to add 14g's of weight to the rear for it to feel completely dialed, after that my setup was straight up money. If the clay your running on is similar id start there.
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:38 PM   #9981
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Being a noob, I was wondering what's the advantage of having a gear diff over ball diff and the other way round.
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Old 02-26-2014, 07:19 AM   #9982
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Originally Posted by Jspires688 View Post
When you say for your driving style what would you say you style is? Thanks for the reply
I am not sure how to discribe my driving style but I will give it a shot. The T4.2 with box set-up fit my driving, the B4.2 box set-up did not, with changes still did not. I got a set-up from a local racer for my RB6 and with just a few small tweeks it was great for me. I rave stock 17.5 blinky, I like my car to have lots of steering. The RB6 has lots of steering but does not get loose like the b4.2 did.
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Old 02-26-2014, 07:24 AM   #9983
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Being a noob, I was wondering what's the advantage of having a gear diff over ball diff and the other way round.
In general a ball diff is more forgiving and will produce more traction exiting turns, the gear diff can provide more steering depending on the weight oil used, but most of us have found that its hard to keep the oil in the kyosho diff.
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:54 AM   #9984
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Originally Posted by 1967rs View Post
I picked up a T4.2 to run before the RT6 came out and I loved the T4.2 so much I bought a B4.2 even though I had a RB6. I hated the B4.2 so much I sold it a week after getting it. For me and my driving style the RB6 is a far better car and worth the cost.
So probably the wrong place to ask this, but do you like the T4.2 better than the RT6?

I ask because I got the T4.2 first (cheaper investement to see if I wanted to invest in ST), put on the box setup, and it was a dream to drive... I got the RT6 thinking it was going to be 10x better and unfortunately I can't say it is... I won't get into what the issues were only b/c I think I've got it figured out, but it took a lot more work to get to the comfort level I was at w/ the box setup of the T4.2.
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Old 02-26-2014, 03:03 PM   #9985
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Hey guys thought I would tip you in about me broadcasting Live from IRCR in Magna Ut, running 2wd mod on clay.
Come watch at www.twitch.tv/syndrome208
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:57 PM   #9986
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Here are 4 VOD's that are saved of my broadcast today. Next time I'll make sure the main camera is focused better.

1st Practice
http://www.twitch.tv/syndrome208/c/3795105

Last Practice (packed track)
http://www.twitch.tv/syndrome208/c/3795187

Heat 1 21:25- 28:27 (camera got moved, didn't notice
http://www.twitch.tv/syndrome208/c/3795212

Recap
http://www.twitch.tv/syndrome208/c/3795204
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Old 02-27-2014, 06:30 AM   #9987
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Originally Posted by 305M3 View Post
So probably the wrong place to ask this, but do you like the T4.2 better than the RT6?

I ask because I got the T4.2 first (cheaper investement to see if I wanted to invest in ST), put on the box setup, and it was a dream to drive... I got the RT6 thinking it was going to be 10x better and unfortunately I can't say it is... I won't get into what the issues were only b/c I think I've got it figured out, but it took a lot more work to get to the comfort level I was at w/ the box setup of the T4.2.
I agree that it took more to set up the RT6 then the T4.2 and that the RT6 is not 10X better then the T4.2. The RT6 is better and gives you the option to run mid motor.
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:14 AM   #9988
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If anyone is snapping the long ends when running 28mm or so length, I may have a solution. After snapping my 4th or 5th one I was looking to fix it since I have a race this Saturday.

The stock rear shafts are 50mm. Get some 54mm shafts and thread them all the way in so the air gap is gone. That should solve any breakage issues since I was always breaking where the shaft ended on the 50mm.
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:28 AM   #9989
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If anyone is snapping the long ends when running 28mm or so length, I may have a solution. After snapping my 4th or 5th one I was looking to fix it since I have a race this Saturday.

The stock rear shafts are 50mm. Get some 54mm shafts and thread them all the way in so the air gap is gone. That should solve any breakage issues since I was always breaking where the shaft ended on the 50mm.
I have has a problem with breaking the long shock ends but not on the back, I have been running the long ends on the front for more droop and I have broken 4 all on the right side, do they make a front shaft that is 4mm longer?
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:51 AM   #9990
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I have has a problem with breaking the long shock ends but not on the back, I have been running the long ends on the front for more droop and I have broken 4 all on the right side, do they make a front shaft that is 4mm longer?
Oh not sure on the front. The original RB5 ran 50mm then they came out with 54mm shafts. W5283-02 is the PN
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