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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-24-2014, 10:26 AM   #9961
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Been awhile since I've posted.

I've been trying a lot of different layouts. Short. Saddles. Short back. Short really back and finally the Tebo style layout. I have to say the Tebo layout feels the best balance wise. I was concerned that the extra weight up front would hurt, but it feels really good. I'm running the LW chassis as well which probably helps.

Fully loaded my car is 1556 with a 62.6% weight bias.








I'm also running a combination of Tebo and Cody's setup with a few changes. So far so good. Car is very planted right now.
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:06 AM   #9962
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I have been running mine shorty w/ esc in front of battery. Feels best with battery all the way forward. Wondering if it would feel better with esc behind and shorty even farther forward. might be giving it a try.
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:17 PM   #9963
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Quote:
I'm also running a combination of Tebo and Cody's setup with a few changes. So far so good. Car is very planted right now.
+1 on this.

I'm running the worlds setup with narrow rear hangers and rear camber link from Cody king setup and it's money.
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:40 PM   #9964
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I've gone to a 1.6x2 rear shock since our track gets a little rough. Seemed better

I tried 2 anti squat but liked the extra side bite the 1 AS gave the car.

I'm going to try a gold rear spring though to see what that does. I lost a little pop off the jumps, which I expected.
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:40 PM   #9965
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Just curious, what makes Kyosho springs worth 20 bucks a pair? Avid springs are supposed to be pretty hard to beat and you can get 3- 4 pairs for 30?
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:45 PM   #9966
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I have a question. I'm going for fora mid motor set up and I 0rderd some rf and rr blocks from exotek. I ordered a narrow rr block and a wide rf block. Unless I read that wrong on the set up sheet. Are the narrow and narrow and wide and wide supposed to go together? I'm switching to mm bc I am not getting enough steering and my track has med bite clay and and should be good for mm. Just trying to make sure I ordered the right blocks. Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-24-2014, 05:19 PM   #9967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickdawg18 View Post
i bent the exotek front brace on the first race. got tangled with another car. Wonder if a plastic piece would stay true better then aluminum. or even carbon fiber
I am hoping the JC brace would be stronger as it extends taller? (where they stamped their logo).

We need a carbon fiber brace already, hammering and then eyeballing it is getting tired
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:29 PM   #9968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socal23 View Post
I have a question. I'm going for fora mid motor set up and I 0rderd some rf and rr blocks from exotek. I ordered a narrow rr block and a wide rf block. Unless I read that wrong on the set up sheet. Are the narrow and narrow and wide and wide supposed to go together? I'm switching to mm bc I am not getting enough steering and my track has med bite clay and and should be good for mm. Just trying to make sure I ordered the right blocks. Thanks in advance.
You want the new kyosho pivots. Umw705 and umw707 they are narrower than the exotek narrow and wider than the exotek wide. Depending on what pills you use. Yes narrow with narrow and wide with wide.

CaseyD I have no idea why springs are $20 when others are $8
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:49 PM   #9969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
I am hoping the JC brace would be stronger as it extends taller? (where they stamped their logo).

We need a carbon fiber brace already, hammering and then eyeballing it is getting tired
An alloy bulkhead from ghea or yaiba would also help. The rack will never bend if u have one
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:05 AM   #9970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenng View Post
An alloy bulkhead from ghea or yaiba would also help. The rack will never bend if u have one
Sure but then I'll be breaking arms and bending hinge pins or even shock shafts. Just release a stronger brace. I'll give the JC a shot. Cheers,
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:58 AM   #9971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
Just curious, what makes Kyosho springs worth 20 bucks a pair? Avid springs are supposed to be pretty hard to beat and you can get 3- 4 pairs for 30?

Same reason why a Breitling is $5000 while a Hamilton with the same 7750 movement $500... because peeps are willing to pay this price
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:53 AM   #9972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Same reason why a Breitling is $5000 while a Hamilton with the same 7750 movement $500... because peeps are willing to pay this price
Not all ETAs are finished the same. Have you looked inside an IWC?

Breitlings are rubbish I'll give you that. Cheers,
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:04 PM   #9973
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Hi guys I'm wanting some advice I have tried running the buggy class with a b4.1 worlds car and just can't seem to get it to hanle the way I like it. I have always raced a sc10 and like the way I am able to push it. So I guess what I'm asking is is the rb6 worth the money I have watched others run them and they always look so smooth. On the first page of this thread it says they may be hard for beginners to drive why is this?
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:13 PM   #9974
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Rear motor I found it quite easy to drive and push it hard, mid motor requires a bit more finesse but my lap times show its a good bit faster, at least running indoors. Big outdoor tracks I still prefer RM.

In my personal opinion it really was worth the money
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:24 PM   #9975
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Thanks for the reply
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