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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-20-2014, 08:40 PM   #9931
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Thanks Teu, gives me some things to think about.
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:46 PM   #9932
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Thanks Teu, gives me some things to think about.
You're welcome,

Hope it helps and helps others as well. I hadn't really worried about weight too much in mod, but I'm going to try and run 13.5 at the Cactus, and figured I'd see where I actually was with the car weight. Then see where I could make changes if needed, plus it gave me an excuse to get some cool Ti stuff I had been wanting to put on the car anyway. LOL.

We'll see how the revamped car does this weekend and see how far my weight balance is off from where it was for mod. With all the elec. stuff up front I know I'm a little front heavy, but it does help downside jumps easier. Albeit, at a cost of rear traction a little bit.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:58 AM   #9933
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
For stock 17.5 never going back to stocker parts. For mod, the stock diff outdrives/pins specially wore too fast. So I was running the mIP super diff prior to the pucks release!
thanks once again, that was a big help.
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Old 02-21-2014, 07:56 AM   #9934
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Damn!!! That's all I have to say. I got my RB6 out to the track for the first time last night and wow. I got it used on here so I had no idea what the set up was, no idea what weight shock oil, never driven a mid motor car and 4 laps in I set my personal best time by .4 on our new layout. Car drives unbelievable. I am used to have a twitchy/ excessive steering car from my B4.2, but this car turns even better but way smoother. I had planned on switching it to RM just to get used to a new platform but my son talked me into just jumping in the deep end and man I cant believe how good it felt. My son has a TLR 22, MM set up and as soon as the moisture starts going away his car is undriveable, my RB6 stayed every bit as hooked up as my B4 did. I am really looking forward to getting this car dialed in. My only complaint is after learning the AE set up sheets, the Kyosho set up sheets look like a foreign language!!!

Quick question, what all do I need to use the aluminum rear axle carriers? There were some in the extra parts, so I bought some 5x11 bearings for the outside but it seems like there should have been some plastic inserts on the inside as well. And do I use a spacer/ crush tube between the two bearings still?
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:09 AM   #9935
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Just weighed mine out last night for the cactus,

Came in at 1592

All Ti screws (except front and rear arm mounts on the chassis, servo screws, and Battery post screws), Ti camber links, and 14g of rear weight added

Running gear,

X2 Scrubs/Suburbs with stock foams
Stock Kyosho wheels
Orion ESC (not as light as a Tekin would be)
Savox 1257
Shotry pack (Protek 4300)
Upgrade wrapped RB6 body (adds some weight for sure)
Upgrade rear wing
Stock slipper w/Losi 70t spur and pads and alum pinion

All elec. componets are mounted up front in front of the shorty pack.

With out the extra 14g rear weight, I'd be at
1588

with a set of AKA Typo's/Evo wheels, I'd be at
1548

With the new light weight chassis, I'd be at
1523


With a lighter shorty pack and all of the above, I'd be under weight in MM

With a lighter Shorty (something around 150g) and the stock chassis and X2 tires, I'd be at (ish)
1538-15442 (depending on if the rear weight (14g) was kept)
add in the LW chassis and it's
1513-1517

There's room for better weight loss in my setup if my body wasn't wrapped, switched out the ESC wires to 13ga, and ran an Avid slipper set up. But I usually run mod, so I don't really worry about the weight too much. Stock class, and I'd be more on top of it. LOL
Just for reference I have the Finnisher body painted lightweight chassis and all the carbon parts minus the rear hubs I have aluminum. I weighed in at 1522 ready to run with a short pack n all electronics up front. I'll be at cactus as well stop by we will be pitting in front of the rv on the far right side of the track.
Forgot to add I also have the complete TI screw kit installed.
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Last edited by Gitsum; 02-21-2014 at 11:57 AM. Reason: Added info
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:07 PM   #9936
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Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
Just for reference I have the Finnisher body painted lightweight chassis and all the carbon parts minus the rear hubs I have aluminum. I weighed in at 1522 ready to run with a short pack n all electronics up front. I'll be at cactus as well stop by we will be pitting in front of the rv on the far right side of the track.
Forgot to add I also have the complete TI screw kit installed.
That sounds wright about where I think I'd like to be weight wise. Was going to pick up a LW chassis, but didn't want to get that far into things for stock. Who knows, I just might bite that bullet while there and be doing a mad dash chassis swap while there.

I'm sure I'll be running across you at some point there. I'll stop by if I remember to. LOL. Have no real idea of where I plan to set up camp for the week yet. Was waiting til I got there and scoped things out some before I made a decision.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:38 PM   #9937
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Np there will be plenty of room. Light weight chassis is hard to find now very few left if any. There aren't any down here in Az.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:46 PM   #9938
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Np there will be plenty of room. Light weight chassis is hard to find now very few left if any. There aren't any down here in Az.
I've seen a few here and there mostly on the flea bay. LOL.

None In Az. you say? Probably not, but there will be. I just might have to barrow it off of someone's car like Tebo's when they're not looking. LOL.
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Old 02-22-2014, 01:46 AM   #9939
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Default pucks question

for anyone who has the mip pucks installed, how is the axle length? is it the same as the stock rb6, which makes it difficult w 3rd party rims? or did they lengthen the threads a bit? any chance the stock axles can work with the puck cvd so i can use the avid heavy duty axles with the puck system? thanks in advance!

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Old 02-22-2014, 08:51 AM   #9940
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Anyone know if you can purchase the plastic inserts for the aluminum hubs seperatly? I'm missing one of the thin inserts for the inside of the hub to run 5x10 bearings. I thought about jus getting a bearing that fits with out it but I'm not sure how metal on metal will work? AE runs metal on metal on theirs so maybe I could.
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:55 AM   #9941
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Anyone know if you can purchase the plastic inserts for the aluminum hubs seperatly? I'm missing one of the thin inserts for the inside of the hub to run 5x10 bearings. I thought about jus getting a bearing that fits with out it but I'm not sure how metal on metal will work? AE runs metal on metal on theirs so maybe I could.
Here you go

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Bearing...b_p_22662.html
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:14 PM   #9942
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Sweet. Thanks for the link.
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:55 AM   #9943
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How to prevent Front Suspension Plate from popping off? I seems to fall off easily with only the bumper holding it in place. Should I just shoe glue it to the bulk head, or am I just missing something with how its supposed to be mounted?
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Old 02-23-2014, 06:21 AM   #9944
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How to prevent Front Suspension Plate from popping off? I seems to fall off easily with only the bumper holding it in place. Should I just shoe glue it to the bulk head, or am I just missing something with how its supposed to be mounted?
move the hingepins up a mm or so, so that they are up against the bumper, leaving no room for plate to fly out.
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Old 02-23-2014, 02:15 PM   #9945
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A dab of shoe goo between the brace n bumper is a better fix.
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