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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-20-2014, 08:46 AM   #9916
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7mm driver for wheel nuts
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:03 AM   #9917
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Need some help here to clear my doubts. Spoke to a dude just now driving a rb5 and asked him weather the arms, cvd and ball diffs would fit into my rtr rb6 and was told no, it can't and won't fit. Now, how true is that? I read that somewhere that it does...

Another issue, my 6 likes to slide after coming out of a bend. Doesn't like to be planted to the ground. Another issue, after taking jumps it's always chasis slapping to the ground. Now do i change to a slightly heavier wt shock oil to overcome this?

Last edited by mog ruith; 02-20-2014 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:18 AM   #9918
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Originally Posted by mog ruith View Post
Need some help here to clear my doubts. Spoke to a dude just now driving a rb5 and asked him weather the arms, cvd and ball diffs would fit into my rtr rb5 and was told no, it can't and won't fit. Now, how true is that? I read that somewhere that it does...

Another issue, my 6 likes to slide after coming out of a bend. Doesn't like to be planted to the ground. Another issue, after taking jumps it's always chasis slapping to the ground. Now do i change to a slightly heavier wt shock oil to overcome this?
Front arms from rb5 are no go, everythings different. Rears and diff and cvd will work.

RM or MM, for RM most try with the japanese setup on kyoshos site. Most run the 1.3x4 pistons for more pack. Not sure about the slide, maybe posting your setup/track here would help.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:17 PM   #9919
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Wow, my buggy weighs a wopping 1630 grams. This is with body on ready to race. This is with a shorty pack in mid motor config. How much are you guys weighing in at?
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:03 PM   #9920
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Front arms from rb5 are no go, everythings different. Rears and diff and cvd will work.

RM or MM, for RM most try with the japanese setup on kyoshos site. Most run the 1.3x4 pistons for more pack. Not sure about the slide, maybe posting your setup/track here would help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mog ruith View Post
Need some help here to clear my doubts. Spoke to a dude just now driving a rb5 and asked him weather the arms, cvd and ball diffs would fit into my rtr rb5 and was told no, it can't and won't fit. Now, how true is that? I read that somewhere that it does...

Another issue, my 6 likes to slide after coming out of a bend. Doesn't like to be planted to the ground. Another issue, after taking jumps it's always chasis slapping to the ground. Now do i change to a slightly heavier wt shock oil to overcome this?

You can run the RB5 front arms with the correct bulkhead. There is 3 different lengths of arms/bulkheads.
RB5 is A
RB6 is B
RB5 WC is C

The front casters/hubs are diffrent, but fit on the RB5 arms.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:23 PM   #9921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
You can run the RB5 front arms with the correct bulkhead. There is 3 different lengths of arms/bulkheads.
RB5 is A
RB6 is B
RB5 WC is C

The front casters/hubs are diffrent, but fit on the RB5 arms.
No the shocks mount in front of the tower in the 5 and the holes line up on the arms that way. In the 6 its behind the towers, so even if it works the geometry will be off. Probably have to flip the arms as well.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:39 PM   #9922
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
No the shocks mount in front of the tower in the 5 and the holes line up on the arms that way. In the 6 its behind the towers, so even if it works the geometry will be off. Probably have to flip the arms as well.
I run the 5 front arms and bulkhead on my 6. No issues.

I have a friend that's using the 6 arms/bulkhead on a 5. No issues.


Look at the bulkhead lettering
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:06 PM   #9923
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Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
I run the 5 front arms and bulkhead on my 6. No issues.

I have a friend that's using the 6 arms/bulkhead on a 5. No issues.


Look at the bulkhead lettering
Do you use the 5 towers as well? Can you post a pic. Might be good because you can increase front droop with the lower tower.
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:20 PM   #9924
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Do you use the 5 towers as well? Can you post a pic. Might be good because you can increase front droop with the lower tower.

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Old 02-20-2014, 04:24 PM   #9925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Front arms from rb5 are no go, everythings different. Rears and diff and cvd will work. RM or MM, for RM most try with the japanese setup on kyoshos site. Most run the 1.3x4 pistons for more pack. Not sure about the slide, maybe posting your setup/track here would help.
Thanks bro, appreciate the help. That's a relief. Now I'm debating either to get me the mip pucks or get me a used rb5. If I get the rb5 it comes with those kyosho shocks but the plain vanilla rb5 kit doesn't comes with those big bore shock if I'm not wrong.

Another thing, what are the advantage of running the Rb5 arms?
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Old 02-20-2014, 04:37 PM   #9926
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Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post

Thanks nice to know they work in a pinch! . @Mog I have the pucks system on mine, does feel a bit faster for stock but those darned #1 pucks are always out of stock and they do wear fast on high bite! My backorders are coming in next week from amain.
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Old 02-20-2014, 04:49 PM   #9927
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Since you are running the mip, u think you're back to the kit cvd any time? Or once you have a puck in there you don't want to go back.
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Old 02-20-2014, 04:54 PM   #9928
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Since you are running the mip, u think you're back to the kit cvd any time? Or once you have a puck in there you don't want to go back.
For stock 17.5 never going back to stocker parts. For mod, the stock diff outdrives/pins specially wore too fast. So I was running the mIP super diff prior to the pucks release!
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:24 PM   #9929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
that and a 5.5 nut driver. That little cross nut tool that they give u. Save that
Ditto, you need the cross tool to get into the front shock nylon nuts.
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:32 PM   #9930
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Originally Posted by chevmaro View Post
Wow, my buggy weighs a wopping 1630 grams. This is with body on ready to race. This is with a shorty pack in mid motor config. How much are you guys weighing in at?

Just weighed mine out last night for the cactus,

Came in at 1592

All Ti screws (except front and rear arm mounts on the chassis, servo screws, and Battery post screws), Ti camber links, and 14g of rear weight added

Running gear,

X2 Scrubs/Suburbs with stock foams
Stock Kyosho wheels
Orion ESC (not as light as a Tekin would be)
Savox 1257
Shotry pack (Protek 4300)
Upgrade wrapped RB6 body (adds some weight for sure)
Upgrade rear wing
Stock slipper w/Losi 70t spur and pads and alum pinion

All elec. componets are mounted up front in front of the shorty pack.

With out the extra 14g rear weight, I'd be at
1588

with a set of AKA Typo's/Evo wheels, I'd be at
1548

With the new light weight chassis, I'd be at
1523


With a lighter shorty pack and all of the above, I'd be under weight in MM

With a lighter Shorty (something around 150g) and the stock chassis and X2 tires, I'd be at (ish)
1538-15442 (depending on if the rear weight (14g) was kept)
add in the LW chassis and it's
1513-1517

There's room for better weight loss in my setup if my body wasn't wrapped, switched out the ESC wires to 13ga, and ran an Avid slipper set up. But I usually run mod, so I don't really worry about the weight too much. Stock class, and I'd be more on top of it. LOL
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