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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-18-2014, 07:12 AM   #9886
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Alright sorry for all the rookie questions, I'm coming over from associated cars, is it normal on the RB6 for the rear to be narrower than the front? It's a pretty noticeable amount, I would say 5mm each side?
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:29 AM   #9887
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Alright sorry for all the rookie questions, I'm coming over from associated cars, is it normal on the RB6 for the rear to be narrower than the front? It's a pretty noticeable amount, I would say 5mm each side?
AE wheels and Kyosho wheels have different offsets! Enjoy your new Kyosho and feel free to read the last 50 pages of info, there's a lot of good read here.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:03 AM   #9888
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Yea I put some Kyosho rims on just to check and the back is definitely more narrow than the front.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:59 AM   #9889
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Just finished my kit. A couple things right away I don't like. The battery brace for saddle pack config. It takes up so much room. Why cant they include a streight brace instead of flipping it around backwards? And the esc shelf needs to be used for the battery brace. Really would be nice if that wasnt covering the esc. Cant use the gear cover with a big pinion in stock config wtf? And parts tree's. So much clean up to do after breaking off each part.

I hope the buggy drives like magic and then I wont care so much about the little things.
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:03 AM   #9890
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As whitrzac has mentioned you can run 33 and 34 tooth pinion's. Take a silver sharpie and color the gear cover where the pinion is. Install the gear cover with the 34 tooth pinion installed and give it a little bit of throttle. Remove the gear cover and see where it rubbed and then grind that spot down. Repeat the process until no more noise. It shouldn't take you longer than 5 minutes to complete the process.

I know you are thinking that you shouldn't have to do that and I agree but it is a simple fix.

As for the battery mount, I am not sure if you actually need one. Take a look at Andy's car as it looks like he isn't running one.
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:15 PM   #9891
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Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
Alright sorry for all the rookie questions, I'm coming over from associated cars, is it normal on the RB6 for the rear to be narrower than the front? It's a pretty noticeable amount, I would say 5mm each side?
Also depends on which rear hangers your using as there is a wide and narrow setting, as I understand it a narrow rear end provides more rear traction
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:08 PM   #9892
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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
As whitrzac has mentioned you can run 33 and 34 tooth pinion's. Take a silver sharpie and color the gear cover where the pinion is. Install the gear cover with the 34 tooth pinion installed and give it a little bit of throttle. Remove the gear cover and see where it rubbed and then grind that spot down. Repeat the process until no more noise. It shouldn't take you longer than 5 minutes to complete the process.

I know you are thinking that you shouldn't have to do that and I agree but it is a simple fix.

As for the battery mount, I am not sure if you actually need one. Take a look at Andy's car as it looks like he isn't running one.
You are right. Its not hard its just I feel like I shouldnt have too. Although every RC car I have purchased requires some kind of customizing.

I have thought about just servo taping my battery to the chassis. I only need one battery anyway. I would then remove all the battery stops. I just need to run the car first and figure out if I like saddle, shorty and in which position.
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:12 PM   #9893
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Here is the current layout of electronics. Turned out ok. What you think?
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-rb6.jpg  
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:32 PM   #9894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevmaro View Post
You are right. Its not hard its just I feel like I shouldnt have too. Although every RC car I have purchased requires some kind of customizing.

I have thought about just servo taping my battery to the chassis. I only need one battery anyway. I would then remove all the battery stops. I just need to run the car first and figure out if I like saddle, shorty and in which position.

Just get some long pieces of velcro that way you can move the battery around without having to re tape it. And then just use the battery strap and no battery stays till you figure out right where you want the battery then add the stops.
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:39 PM   #9895
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Just sold my RB6. Car was great. No real complaints with the platform. Just time to play with another car.
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:58 PM   #9896
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Just sold my RB6. Car was great. No real complaints with the platform. Just time to play with another car.
B5? I keep my buggy's for about a year and then trade out to something. This time it was the RB6.
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:16 PM   #9897
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Just sold my RB6. Car was great. No real complaints with the platform. Just time to play with another car.
want to try a yokomo I have one nib with all hop ups sitting around i want to sell
maybe...
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:38 PM   #9898
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B5? I keep my buggy's for about a year and then trade out to something. This time it was the RB6.
Yeah, b5. We're kinda transitioning back to rear motor traction levels and layouts recently and I want to try the new b4, errrm, b5!
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Old 02-18-2014, 05:47 PM   #9899
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Selling my clean and fresh rb6 roller! $280 OBO
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Old 02-19-2014, 05:41 AM   #9900
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Fitting saddles ....

Reverse the batter trays from what the instructions tell you so that the body clip posts are at the rear.
This turns the strap through 180 degrees and the big square cut out in the stock battery strap clears even the largest ESC!

Not sure why they put it the other way around in the manual
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