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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-16-2014, 05:27 AM   #9856
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Originally Posted by wisconsinbasher View Post
decided to just go ahead and finish it up heres how my buggy turned out

started out by dremling out the side rails to fit the battery




it was kind of a tight fit for the motor wires a couple of zip ties cleaned it up







a few questions, how do you plan to keep the battery in place? and what rear axle's are those?

:::edit:::

nevermind, i see that its the mip puck system.
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:03 AM   #9857
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
Speaking of wheel hex offsets (sorta surprised the front offset was closer than I thought)...

How far is the offset front and rear for the AKA Evo wheels compared to the Kyosho wheels?
I ran the typos yesterday for the first time. The front end is noticeably narrower. Probably 3 mm on each side with the wide front end. The rear appears to be pretty close visually. I didn't measure them. The tires worked very well for me. They seem to roll deeper without the feeling that you've stretched the tire to its limit and are now sitting on the bead. The traction was very consistent with gobs of forward bite and "smooth" side bite. Again, the tires never felt like they were trying to square up and get squirmy. I ran my fastest lap, my fastest qualifier, TQed and won the A with them. Definitely worth a try. We run on indoor clay with medium-high traction. My usual tire combination is suburb front/ rear or suburb front / sweep rear. The TYPOS were more consistent and better balanced.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:50 AM   #9858
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18 View Post
a few questions, how do you plan to keep the battery in place? and what rear axle's are those?

:::edit:::

nevermind, i see that its the mip puck system.
As far as the battery goes I have Velcro on the bottom and the esc shelf keeps it from popping up.
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Old 02-16-2014, 12:27 PM   #9859
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Kyosho Rudebits DB2
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-rsz_db2_028.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-rsz_db2_027.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-rsz_db2_023.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-rsz_1db2_021.jpg  
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Old 02-16-2014, 12:46 PM   #9860
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Kyosho Rudebits DB2
nice , show some video of it running
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:12 PM   #9861
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I am coming from 1/8 buggy to my first 2wd 1/10 buggy and have a few questions . does anyone have a good starting setup for rear motor , for an outdoor , bumpy hard pack 1/8 track ? would you recommend the wide , aluminum rear suspension hangers ? thanks .
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:19 PM   #9862
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Had a good day at track today, besides my brand new Orion VST2 end ball blew apart then motor start clicking real bad. It's pretty much stock rm but I'm curious how to get more on power steering out of it
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:31 PM   #9863
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Originally Posted by purple haze View Post
I am coming from 1/8 buggy to my first 2wd 1/10 buggy and have a few questions . does anyone have a good starting setup for rear motor , for an outdoor , bumpy hard pack 1/8 track ? would you recommend the wide , aluminum rear suspension hangers ? thanks .
Absolutely not. I assume that the 1/8 scale track will be dramatically lower traction than an indoor track, so you do NOT want to widen the rear end up as that will remove a lot of traction.

Assuming the track is as I suspect it will be, I would stick with the gull wing arms, put this setup on:

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...CRC2013011213/

Then add 1mm of shock down travel and ride height and go from there. Don't forget to use the M shock eyelets when running the gull arms and short eyelets when running the flat arms.

You may consider going to the 5 hole pistons to address the bumps, but they will have far less pack incase you have big jumps.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:39 PM   #9864
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Originally Posted by Mxer59 View Post
Had a good day at track today, besides my brand new Orion VST2 end ball blew apart then motor start clicking real bad. It's pretty much stock rm but I'm curious how to get more on power steering out of it
Running stick, shorty or saddles?

When i was running rm I started with stick and the car was good but needed more steering, switched to shorty moved all the way forward then placed the esc further forward and the car was dialed.
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:58 PM   #9865
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Running stick, shorty or saddles?

When i was running rm I started with stick and the car was good but needed more steering, switched to shorty moved all the way forward then placed the esc further forward and the car was dialed.
Running shorty more towards back, and Esc in back
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Old 02-16-2014, 10:00 PM   #9866
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Absolutely not. I assume that the 1/8 scale track will be dramatically lower traction than an indoor track, so you do NOT want to widen the rear end up as that will remove a lot of traction.

Assuming the track is as I suspect it will be, I would stick with the gull wing arms, put this setup on:

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...CRC2013011213/

Then add 1mm of shock down travel and ride height and go from there. Don't forget to use the M shock eyelets when running the gull arms and short eyelets when running the flat arms.

You may consider going to the 5 hole pistons to address the bumps, but they will have far less pack incase you have big jumps.

thanks !
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Old 02-16-2014, 10:43 PM   #9867
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Originally Posted by wisconsinbasher View Post
As far as the battery goes I have Velcro on the bottom and the esc shelf keeps it from popping up.
Your gonna want more then that and unless your running oval
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Old 02-16-2014, 11:13 PM   #9868
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Default help me understand Anti squat

Ok Im kind of lost here on the mid motor setups.
what is anti squat? how does it affect the car?
if i run 0 under the rear pivot what do I run on top of the rear pivot?
kit is .5 and .5 what happens when you change these shims?
tebo ocrc reedy race is .5 under pivot but does say what is above the pivot?
I'm lost here please help
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:07 AM   #9869
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Running shorty more towards back, and Esc in back
Move the battery forward one hole at a time until you get the steering you want. Battery holders have two holes for in-between adjustments
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:08 AM   #9870
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Originally Posted by AlwaysLOSI View Post
Ok Im kind of lost here on the mid motor setups.
what is anti squat? how does it affect the car?
if i run 0 under the rear pivot what do I run on top of the rear pivot?
kit is .5 and .5 what happens when you change these shims?
tebo ocrc reedy race is .5 under pivot but does say what is above the pivot?
I'm lost here please help
You must make sure that the total of the shims equals 1...kit is 0.5 plus 0.5 so if you decide to run no shim under the rear you have to add 1mm shim on top or otherwise your roll center will change.
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