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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-07-2014, 07:39 PM   #9736
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What is the gearing to run stock 17.5?
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:51 PM   #9737
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[quote=glenng;12986379]
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Mine fit on fine, it sticks out too far so the gear cover doesn't fit, I practiced with it anyway, worked fine. I am going to file down the back part so it sits closer to the back plate like it should, this will also give more threads on the lock nut.[/QUOTE


Interesting. Was it just the behind the backplate part that fit? Or u even got a snug fit on front shaft part? If its the backplate part, maybe i need to try again and squeeze it on harder. I dont like putting too much pressure on the shaft out of fear of bending it. Also, did u have to remove the kyosho brass spacer? And if so did u shim the gap? And was the behind backplate fitment really snug/tight requiring force? Thanks Mike!
I tightened it good, I did leave the brass shim in, as the elim doesn't fit to replace it.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:00 PM   #9738
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What is the gearing to run stock 17.5?
32/69
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:50 PM   #9739
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Is it possible to get a jcon finisher c4.2 body on a rb6 mid motor? I just got a fresh lid for my c4 and then decided to get a rb6. Hoping it will fit.
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:15 AM   #9740
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Originally Posted by Jcozz View Post
Is it possible to get a jcon finisher c4.2 body on a rb6 mid motor? I just got a fresh lid for my c4 and then decided to get a rb6. Hoping it will fit.
At a glance I would say it is likely. I know a rb6 body will fit a b5r (I tried it) and a lot of people are using centro bodies on the b5r.
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Old 02-08-2014, 10:37 AM   #9741
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Originally Posted by 1967rs View Post
At a glance I would say it is likely. I know a rb6 body will fit a b5r (I tried it) and a lot of people are using centro bodies on the b5r.
Man I sure hope so!
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:57 PM   #9742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VenturaDC View Post
I had the same issue on my rb5, nothing I did helped, tried shims everywhere. Eventually I filed the stock hexes hole out just enough to fit over the avid axle and that worked, its like the pin recess on the avid hex was too deep and the axle was as far out as it could go.
Thanks for the feedback. I will probably put back the stock axel then.

Easier.

Ciao,
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Old 02-08-2014, 09:32 PM   #9743
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Hey guys, I was seriously having some traction issues with my mid motor rb6 with our recent track rebuild. It wasn't horrible, but it wasn't good. I didn't want to go to a lighter spring in the rear (running golds) so I opted to go with 1mm more front droop. This got me the on power traction I was missing, and a significant amount of low speed steering as well. Since I am running the 5 hole pistons in the front, I went up in oil to 37.5 from 35 to calm the front down on corner entry. I then lowered the rear roll center (no washers on the hubs) for a bit more off power traction in slow sections.

Been really happy with these changes. Definitely a good move for our slow low speed and slippery layout that would probably deal better with a rear motor car.

Wayne
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:14 PM   #9744
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Can somebody measure the wing mounts for me? Center to center? Thanks in advance!
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:56 PM   #9745
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What are most of you guys preferring with 17.5 mm or rm
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:43 PM   #9746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
My stock rb6 is at 1415 grams right now, had to put a full pack to get upto minimum weight. Except the carbon parts all lightweight parts and titanium on her. Pucks do make a lot of difference and eliminating the slipper.
Want all did u do to get it to 1415?
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:58 PM   #9747
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I think he said what he did to it in his post but wasn't 100% clear....
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:28 PM   #9748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Posvar View Post
I think he said what he did to it in his post but wasn't 100% clear....
I'm still not clear on how to replace the slipper.

Also, does anyone know how much weight in grams the puck system eliminates?
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:04 PM   #9749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lore View Post
Thanks for the feedback. I will probably put back the stock axel then.

Easier.

Ciao,
If you're breaking axles maybe these might work?

http://www.fastlanemachine.net/products.php?cat=Kyosho
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:06 PM   #9750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxer59 View Post
What are most of you guys preferring with 17.5 mm or rm
Personally I think it depends more on track type, layout and driving style more then anything else. See how the fast guys at your track are running it. If you have a heavy trigger finger and enter the corners very aggressively then Rm will be more forgiving, if your a smooth fluid driver then I think MM will be advantageous to use.
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