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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-03-2014, 10:07 AM   #9676
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Originally Posted by jaredtebo View Post
In my experience this isn't the death wobble. Ko servos will do this if you have too much EPA input. I don't normally post on threads, but I wanted to help. Re check your EPA. That should fix the issue.
I reset the 'travel' back to default (I had it at 130), the problem still persists, though less so. I'll replace a spare one10 and see if the problem clears entirely. Maybe I killed it running at 130.

Thank you very much for your time I really appreciate it JTP
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:07 AM   #9677
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Originally Posted by Jerm13 View Post
You are the proud owner of the famous "Servo Death Wobble!" Does this mean your servo is junk, no. It means there is something internally worn, usually the gears or the top case, and it cant find center so it is hunting. I bet it goes away if you set the car on the ground too.

On another note, I am looking to get one of these bad boys and just need a little feed back.

1. What if any upgrades/ trick parts do you absolutely need to be competitive?
2. What needs to be replaced often and/or keep spares of?
3.How is part support?
4. How does it compare to the B4.2 as far as driving style.
5. Ease of maintenance. Do you have to rebuild the shocks, diff or others every week?
Honestly, the car doesn't really need anything to be competitive, the only things IMO that need to be replaced are the steering rack, rear hubs, and rear suspension hangers.

I keep a bunch of spares of arms, knuckles, hubs, hinge pins ect ect but so far I've yet to use any.

Parts support is everywhere, I use amain, they pretty much keep everything you could ever need in stock.

I can tell you from experience, to me the rb6 feels more nimble, more direct and precise then the b4.2. Also what little slop is in the car when you build it will still be the same 6+ months later. My b4.2's slop seemingly increased after every race day.

I've got 3months on my ball diff since last rebuild and it's still butter smooth, ill probably rebuild it soon just because this is the longest I've ever gone with any car. I tend to play with shock oils a bit so I never have more then a few weeks at most between changes but every time the oil has been clean, you just can't get better shocks.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:12 AM   #9678
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Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
I reset the 'travel' back to default (I had it at 130) but the problem still persists. I'll replace a spare one10 and see if the problem persists. Maybe I killed it running at 130.

Thank you very much for your time I really appreciate it JTP
Not a KO radio but on my futaba I'm around 70-80 on the EPA and that gets me lock to lock without excessive servo pressure, I can see how running it that high would kill a servo.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:21 AM   #9679
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Originally Posted by VenturaDC View Post
Not a KO radio but on my futaba I'm around 70-80 on the EPA and that gets me lock to lock without excessive servo pressure, I can see how running it that high would kill a servo.
On the RB5 I couldn't get it full lock without additional EPA.

Reset to default on the RB6 and lo and behold full lock..
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:37 PM   #9680
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I am using the puck system, it adds a lot of pop to the car.
Hi what do you mean by pop? Care to elaborate? I'm slow....
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:19 PM   #9681
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Does anyone makes an aluminium top shaft that's a direct fit?
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:59 PM   #9682
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Originally Posted by mog ruith View Post
Hi what do you mean by pop? Care to elaborate? I'm slow....
The car accelerates quicker, before I had to be set-up with the optimal line to clear the triple now I can clear it with almost any line ( it has a short run-up), I can now pull a few feet on other cars getting on the strait because the car gets up to speed quicker. The set-up is not cheap but it does make a difference. My car is right at 1500g, so if your car is on the heavy side you might not notice as much change. hope that helps.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:10 PM   #9683
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Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
Does anyone makes an aluminium top shaft that's a direct fit?
im using avid but you have to use the avid slipper kit..
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...minum-Topshaft

not sure if you are looking for one for stock slipper/gear..
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:32 PM   #9684
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Anyone of you guys tried the option flex chassis?
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:52 PM   #9685
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After running the car now for a solid amount of time I'd like to suggest any new owners at least look into these upgrades:

1) full aluminum steering rack upgrade is a must
2) I've found I really like the front aluminum 25/30 degree hinge pin holders available (no Kyosho upgrade part for this AFAIK) and adds a nice extra bit of durability for club racing, and the stock one is hard to get enough torque on the set screws to keep the pins from moving around a bit without stripping the plastic out
3) rear-front and rear hinge pin holders with inserts. IMO these are a must
4) the tie-rods included in the kit are pretty thin and fragile
5) kind of disappointed in the amount of slop in the upper and lower shock mounts, but seems to have no effect on handling at all regardless
6) IMO not really a 'must' but I've got the V2 rear hubs and like them over the stock ones... another bunch of $ for upgrades on an already expensive kit

Overall the kit and layout are very well designed and clean. Love the mounting options and the cleanliness and ample amount of space provided in the chassis for a variety of configurations. This thing performs well, and it jumps and lands very nicely. Awesome kit overall. My main complaints comes down to what's included for the price tag of the kit. For a 1:10 scale electric 2WD buggy this thing is overpriced for what it includes. I don't mind paying for quality, but this is beyond what you'd pay for purely a name and quality.

Would I want any other kit? Nope! I love this one, and it's durable enough and the looks of the buggy (and stock body) are awesome compared to the other kits.

**forgot, you definitely want the WC red slipper set if you're running mod. The stock slipper pads are stupidly small and no amount of torque on the nut can get the slipper to adjust reliably. Also, the WC slipper spring set is a good upgrade vs. the two stock plastic pieces that sit on either side of the spring.
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Old 02-04-2014, 01:25 AM   #9686
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Has anyone measured the carbon lightweight parts weights. If so what is the total weight savings? Thinking of getting those parts but a little hesitant since the weathers still cold.
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Old 02-04-2014, 04:39 AM   #9687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1967rs View Post
The car accelerates quicker, before I had to be set-up with the optimal line to clear the triple now I can clear it with almost any line ( it has a short run-up), I can now pull a few feet on other cars getting on the strait because the car gets up to speed quicker. The set-up is not cheap but it does make a difference. My car is right at 1500g, so if your car is on the heavy side you might not notice as much change. hope that helps.
Ahhh thanks alot for the explanation. I guess it gets up to speed quicker is because its light thus it helps gets up to speed quicker. As stated in their webby "decreases the drivetrain’s overall rotating mass by a whopping 50%!". I might just go with it because mine is a ready set.
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:11 AM   #9688
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Has anyone measured the carbon lightweight parts weights. If so what is the total weight savings? Thinking of getting those parts but a little hesitant since the weathers still cold.
The carbon parts are the same wight...
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:54 AM   #9689
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JT.....good to see you on here...drive safe this weekend, we got a bad one coming!
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:13 AM   #9690
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
Anyone of you guys tried the option flex chassis?
I'm running my car mm with the new chassis. All I can say is the car is amazing. I feel that it took the car to another level for me. A lot of people was struggling with traction in rm and my mm car was so hooked up I had to add some steering because it wanted to push. It made the car very safe/controlled all day.
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