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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-20-2014, 06:25 PM   #9466
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Default Any suggestions??

Looking for gearing suggestions.. I will soon be switching from mod to stock.. (10.5 to 17.5) RB6 MM, Small track... High bite clay. My 10.5 was geared 81,21,Triad slipper. I had to gear it that way otherwise it was just too much.

Im getting a Orion 17.5,, heard it was a "torque monster".. hoping its true..

Any suggestions??
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:33 PM   #9467
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So it's finally starting to make sense. I'm asking for your approach when u want to make the car exit of of the corners better. What is the first thing you try after u got the tires figured out.
1) add more toe
2) run less anti squad
3) lower roll center
4?????
What is typically the first thing you would change. We're talking midmotor off course.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:39 PM   #9468
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Originally Posted by omarsez View Post
Looking for gearing suggestions.. I will soon be switching from mod to stock.. (10.5 to 17.5) RB6 MM, Small track... High bite clay. My 10.5 was geared 81,21,Triad slipper. I had to gear it that way otherwise it was just too much.

Im getting a Orion 17.5,, heard it was a "torque monster".. hoping its true..

Any suggestions??
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:43 PM   #9469
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Looking for more side bite I see I need to add the shim to remove the
Anti Squat as I seem to missing that any other tips for a new rb6 guy

Do you guys run the diff tight no matter rear or mid?

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Old 01-20-2014, 10:24 PM   #9470
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Originally Posted by xrayrc View Post
Looking for more side bite I see I need to add the shim to remove the
Anti Squat as I seem to missing that any other tips for a new rb6 guy

Do you guys run the diff tight no matter rear or mid?

i run my diff some what tight when the track is hooking.. when its a bit dusty/wet i loosen it up a bit.. mid
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:40 PM   #9471
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Default

Hey guys here is something I have tested a few times with some nice results.

Changing the spindle height.

My teammate Andy DiBrino runs his with 1mm on top .5 on the bottom. Essentially lowering the spindle. This creates Bump-In which can help make the car enter better, and steer less coming out of a turn.

It's really good for tight tracks or tracks where the front end is grabbing too much on exit.

You can go back to bump-zero and still maintain the additional steering change by adding a 1mm shim to the steering ballstud. With this you should essentially be giving your car an extra 1mm of droop without having to mess with the shocks. This will in turn give you more downtravel and less steering on the exit of a corner.

I know many probably don't mess with this setting, but try it out and see what you think. The adjustments take minimal time and you should see a difference on the track.
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:57 AM   #9472
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Quote:
Looking for more side bite I see I need to add the shim to remove the
Anti Squat as I seem to missing that any other tips for a new rb6 guy
Try moving the lower rear shock out on the arm, adjust droop accordingly.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:11 AM   #9473
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Quote:
So it's finally starting to make sense. I'm asking for your approach when u want to make the car exit of of the corners better. What is the first thing you try after u got the tires figured out.
1) add more toe
2) run less anti squad
3) lower roll center
4?????
What is typically the first thing you would change. We're talking midmotor off course.
I would add more rear toe (up to 3.5*), you could try going up or down one spring rate. Sometimes I feel a soft rear spring absorbs the weight transfer without passing it onto the tires. To hard a spring and it will feel like ice.

Another option which I learnt from 12th scale and have applied successfully to 2wd buggy is in all but the lowest traction conditions, the more entry steering you have, the rest of the corner will sort its self out. The theory being you do 50% of your rotation in the first 1/3rd of the corner, then you will be turning less when you are applying the gas on exit. I see a lot of cars with bad understeer and they scrub speed at the apex then try and get on the gas (cause the corner speed is so slow) while completing the turn causing the rear to get outa shape. So they look for more rear grip and gain more understeer and the cycle repeats. The more corner speed you have the less acceleration you will need.

Now I rarely touch the rear end of my rb6 mid, my setup procedure is rear tire to suit track (you should probably be able to pick this from just looking at the track), then I try front tire inserts (open cell v closed cell) and front wheelbase adjustment.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:46 AM   #9474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Hey guys here is something I have tested a few times with some nice results.

Changing the spindle height.

My teammate Andy DiBrino runs his with 1mm on top .5 on the bottom. Essentially lowering the spindle. This creates Bump-In which can help make the car enter better, and steer less coming out of a turn.

It's really good for tight tracks or tracks where the front end is grabbing too much on exit.

You can go back to bump-zero and still maintain the additional steering change by adding a 1mm shim to the steering ballstud. With this you should essentially be giving your car an extra 1mm of droop without having to mess with the shocks. This will in turn give you more downtravel and less steering on the exit of a corner.

I know many probably don't mess with this setting, but try it out and see what you think. The adjustments take minimal time and you should see a difference on the track.
Thanks KK, so this would help reduce oversteering on exit.
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:07 AM   #9475
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Thanks KK, so this would help reduce oversteering on exit.
Yes
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:07 AM   #9476
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Originally Posted by Tom87 View Post
I would add more rear toe (up to 3.5*), you could try going up or down one spring rate. Sometimes I feel a soft rear spring absorbs the weight transfer without passing it onto the tires. To hard a spring and it will feel like ice.

Another option which I learnt from 12th scale and have applied successfully to 2wd buggy is in all but the lowest traction conditions, the more entry steering you have, the rest of the corner will sort its self out. The theory being you do 50% of your rotation in the first 1/3rd of the corner, then you will be turning less when you are applying the gas on exit. I see a lot of cars with bad understeer and they scrub speed at the apex then try and get on the gas (cause the corner speed is so slow) while completing the turn causing the rear to get outa shape. So they look for more rear grip and gain more understeer and the cycle repeats. The more corner speed you have the less acceleration you will need.

Now I rarely touch the rear end of my rb6 mid, my setup procedure is rear tire to suit track (you should probably be able to pick this from just looking at the track), then I try front tire inserts (open cell v closed cell) and front wheelbase adjustment.
Thanks
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:23 AM   #9477
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Hello all!

I'm about to start back running 2wd mod and was wondering why is everyone running MM vs RM. I was wondering which one should I run indoors on a low-Med traction track. Oh and where can I go to find some setups.
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:28 AM   #9478
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Originally Posted by offroad dude View Post
Hello all!

I'm about to start back running 2wd mod and was wondering why is everyone running MM vs RM. I was wondering which one should I run indoors on a low-Med traction track. Oh and where can I go to find some setups.
I run on low traction hard packed dirt. I ran rm and mm and prefer mid motor. I was faster with the mm as well.
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:31 AM   #9479
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Low traction surface......start with RM.
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:29 AM   #9480
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Originally Posted by offroad dude View Post
Hello all!

I'm about to start back running 2wd mod and was wondering why is everyone running MM vs RM. I was wondering which one should I run indoors on a low-Med traction track. Oh and where can I go to find some setups.
I'd start w/ RM.

Here are some places for setup sheets - lots of duplicates, but should get you started:

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/SetupSheetDataBase.htm

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Factory-Setups_c_842.html

http://www.infernosonly.com/Download...heets_s/24.htm
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