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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-20-2014, 06:33 AM   #9451
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What is the purpose of the rear skid angle? I see most use .5 shim but I did see one setup that used the 1mm shim.
If you raise the front arm mount relative to the rear its anti-squat, this tends to free the car up on power.
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:18 AM   #9452
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If you raise the front arm mount relative to the rear its anti-squat, this tends to free the car up on power.
Thanks Mike, so if I'm running on a low traction track no need for the 1mm shim right?
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:31 AM   #9453
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
What is the purpose of the rear skid angle? I see most use .5 shim but I did see one setup that used the 1mm shim.
If you are talking about the section for the manual:

They show that if you take the shim out in between the tower and the mount, that you are running more anti-squat. You will get a lot more side bite with the shim in there.

For MM you have to run a total of 1mm with the shims for the tower to remain at the correct height and angle.

1mm between the holder and bumper = 0 between tower and holder
.5mm is .5mm between tower and holder
0mm is 1mm between tower and holer

For RM you just run the shim between the holder and bumper since the tower height is unaffected with the adjustment.
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:49 AM   #9454
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Thanks Mike, so if I'm running on a low traction track no need for the 1mm shim right?
Are you running rear or mid motor? Kevins explanation is very good as how to setup the 2 different mounts, but in low traction you will likely want to get the arms close to level, or even have the rear higher than the front.

Are you running at Cruzin? I plan to check it out once its warm.
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:50 AM   #9455
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
If you are talking about the section for the manual:

They show that if you take the shim out in between the tower and the mount, that you are running more anti-squat. You will get a lot more side bite with the shim in there.

For MM you have to run a total of 1mm with the shims for the tower to remain at the correct height and angle.

1mm between the holder and bumper = 0 between tower and holder
.5mm is .5mm between tower and holder
0mm is 1mm between tower and holer

For RM you just run the shim between the holder and bumper since the tower height is unaffected with the adjustment.
Currently I have the .5mm shim between bumper and holder, so If I want more side bite do I just add the 1m shim between the holder and tower? or do I remove the .5 mm shim and then add the 1mm between the holder and tower.? Im running MM
Thanks Kevin
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:00 AM   #9456
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What are you guys using/doing to seal the gear diff?
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:34 AM   #9457
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Are you running rear or mid motor? Kevins explanation is very good as how to setup the 2 different mounts, but in low traction you will likely want to get the arms close to level, or even have the rear higher than the front.

Are you running at Cruzin? I plan to check it out once its warm.
Yeah Mike we run at Cruzin. Im also going to SJRC this Sunday for the trophy race. Im running MM. When you say arms close to level, is that with the shocks mounted?
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:50 AM   #9458
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Hello everyone,

Please correct me if I am wrong...the wider the rear and of the car is the better can cope with bumps in the track...right?
Yes and no. It will give you more stability and lower traction in the rear, which will make the bumps less of a big deal. Be careful though -- you may go outside the legal track width for the car, and generally, you don't do something like this because of how much it affects the roll profile of the rear. It really changes a lot.
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:56 AM   #9459
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What are you guys using/doing to seal the gear diff?
Rtv black gasket sealer from auto parts stores. Comes out like toothpaste and hardens into a soft rubber. And you can cut through it easy with a blade after its hardened.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:09 AM   #9460
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Currently I have the .5mm shim between bumper and holder, so If I want more side bite do I just add the 1m shim between the holder and tower? or do I remove the .5 mm shim and then add the 1mm between the holder and tower.? Im running MM
Thanks Kevin


Remember the total sum of both shims needs to be 1mm. If you want more side bite, put a 1mm between the bumper and holder and none between the tower and holder.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:12 AM   #9461
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Yes and no. It will give you more stability and lower traction in the rear, which will make the bumps less of a big deal. Be careful though -- you may go outside the legal track width for the car, and generally, you don't do something like this because of how much it affects the roll profile of the rear. It really changes a lot.
Have you messed with the rear hangers and how they affect roll vs a shorter link? For example D-in/D-in should provide the narrowest pivot, I'm guessing that locks the rear end down a bit too much, but what if you ran that plus the longest link?
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:42 AM   #9462
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Remember the total sum of both shims needs to be 1mm. If you want more side bite, put a 1mm between the bumper and holder and none between the tower and holder.
Ok Now i understand. I made a mistake and never put the other .5 mm shim in. Im getting the new chassis this week so Im putting in your setup. My track conditions are very similar to yours except we are low traction. Should I start with the 1MM shim or 2 .5mm shims
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:00 AM   #9463
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Yeah Mike we run at Cruzin. Im also going to SJRC this Sunday for the trophy race. Im running MM. When you say arms close to level, is that with the shocks mounted?
You're thinking of ride height, what I mean is, if you look at the hingepin, say with no arm mounted, is it level, or tilted up or down? if the front is up, that is anti-squat, if it's down, it's pro-squat, it sounds like you do not want anti squat based on the conditions.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:23 AM   #9464
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
You're thinking of ride height, what I mean is, if you look at the hingepin, say with no arm mounted, is it level, or tilted up or down? if the front is up, that is anti-squat, if it's down, it's pro-squat, it sounds like you do not want anti squat based on the conditions.
Got it totally makes sense now. Thanks Mike and Kevin.
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:12 PM   #9465
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Regarding battery placement. I had the esc right in front of the motor, and then the shorty ran up to the low profile servo up front. This was AWESOME on super high bite like the worlds track...but undrivable on low-med bite indoor dirt.

Last week I took some out of the side guards and put the shorty sideways near the back (fits just right between the two side screws) and put the esc just in front of it. On the lower bite track it still isn't easy to drive, but it got me 3rd instead of not being able to make a lap cleanly at all, and responded really well to using very little brake anywhere, just scrub a tiny bit of speed and carve the corner from letting off. I'm running it with an 8.5. It still wants to step out a bit easier when getting on empower after a turn though, as compared to other cars on the track...but now I've got something I can actually work with.
Next time out I'm going to try an extra .5 toe to get the on power back a bit, and see what happens...probably soften up the esc punch setting a tad too.
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